Sorry for my bad grammar I am deaf that alright. Ok just ask me if you can't understand what I say then I will try to make clear for you.
I have 93 Geo tracker 4wd I think 1.6L 8V with 5 speed.
lot problem
4wd for those hub that have spring that keep thingy out 4wd but that spring is gone and cause engage 4wd all time until I found why I am keep fill gas than normal. What cause spring gone? I have manual book it didn't show complete diagram. I am avoid buy new hub for $80.
Then change all gear oil in front axle, rear axle, transfer case, and transmission.
Transmission was fine when we change oil. It have 80w90 oil costal. Now it hard to shift in 1 or 2 or R but need push clutch then release then push clutch it shift ok.
It leak oil on dist I am think it o-ring is leak. I am afraid to remove dist then can't start because timing on dist is messy. How hard to timing dist?
Now I am worry about timing belt I am sure it never replace. It have 90,300 miles. What I need do? I been check and it seem big job since it require me remove valve cover I do not want. I just want replace belt and tension then you done.
Last one. I am get worry more about rust on that geo tracker. Is there way to stop rust grow on that frame. Will rustolem primer that stop rust good?
What good for highway mph? I try 70 mph it at 4,000 rpm I do not feel comfy drive for 4 hour and 300 miles with that. Is 60-65 mph better?
Sorry for my bad grammar I am deaf that alright. Ok just ask me if you can't understand what I say then I will try to make clear for you.
I have 93 Geo tracker 4wd I think 1.6L 8V with 5 speed.
lot problem
4wd for those hub that have spring that keep thingy out 4wd but that spring is gone and cause engage 4wd all time until I found why I am keep fill gas than normal. What cause spring gone? I have manual book it didn't show complete diagram. I am avoid buy new hub for $80.
see my hub page. but if you are missing parts, find a wrecking yard.
Then change all gear oil in front axle, rear axle, transfer case, and transmission.
Transmission was fine when we change oil. It have 80w90 oil costal. Now it hard to shift in 1 or 2 or R but need push clutch then release then push clutch it shift ok. could be bad syncro? REverse ? id do not understand that , you are not moving in reverse, so if it grinds the clutch IS BAD,
Distributor= dizzy.:
It leak oil on dist I am think it o-ring is leak. I am afraid to remove dist then can't start because timing on dist is messy. How hard to timing dist?
easy or hard i can be.
steps: easy: ( my extra steps allow for a regression path.... importante
1 set crank to TDC (pointer on crank points to 0 on cam belt cover)
2: dizzy cap off. make sure rotor is pointing to #1 spark wire front , (rotor must align with cap terminal #1)
if not?, rotate crank one more revolution 360deg. landing on TDC 0 again.
3: Rotor at #1 wire , FOR SURE. proceed. Now mark the rotor position on the top edge of the dizzy aluminum rim of dizzy base.
3b: now mark the dizzy base bolt, i use a scribe for marks or center punch, and mark the center line of the bolt to the edge of the mount lip base.
4: remove DIZZY and rear head mount , replace both O-rings. (mount to head, dizzy to mount)
5: put back mount with new o ring, do not over tighten the bolts see my torque page !! it's aluminum !
6; put 1 teaspoon of engine oil in dizzy hole . (FSM says so , do it)
7: insert dizzy with rotor on , cap off into hole , (it has a gear)
8 drop the dizzy in the hole and anticipate the rotor progression and have pointer land in the old location marked in step 3.
repeat step 8 , until you have the rotor aligned as it was before.
this works on all Dizzy cars with gears.
during all the above, hide keys and do not move the crankshaft.
or you will have to read my timing page.
its all there.
Now I am worry about timing belt I am sure it never replace. It have 90,300 miles. What I need do? I been check and it seem big job since it require me remove valve cover I do not want. I just want replace belt and tension then you done.
sorry I can go there, no one does that. it is not a fan belt, it must be tensioned exactly.
see my t-belt page.
Last one. I am get worry more about rust on that geo tracker. Is there way to stop rust grow on that frame. Will rustolem primer that stop rust good?
Eastwood dot com. they do antique car restoration materials
What good for highway mph? I try 70 mph it at 4,000 rpm I do not feel comfy drive for 4 hour and 300 miles with that. Is 60-65 mph better?
60mph can achieve 30mpg in this buggy.
higher speeds suck gas at a greater rate.
50 to 60 is far less bad then 60 to 70.mph.
This car can get 25 in town, and 30 easy on a long trip.
USA gallons ,not the Imperial Gallons. (long gallons , wow)
happy trails.
PS< click the below link, in red that says Click me.....
I check and I say very notice when it cold it more hard shift but when I drive like 5 miles it get easy to shift.
I should have known that R won't get in gear when it moving.
But does it grind , parked and shifting in to Rev. with clutch to floor.
My &9 F150 have 4 speed and worse it hard get in gear since it have 328,600 miles. (this has nothing at all to do with a suzuki)
I miss 2 springs. 1 for side. It was gone it grind in it. Plus grease smell burned.
I do not understand this?
I suspect it something that cause problem. transfer case is in 2wd but what it cause? I notice much drag so I thought it old brake cause. ?same
It was sit all time I say 2 or 4 years sit on gravel. It rusty on hardware. That mean bearing is seizure? ?the ford or the suzuki
for that dizzy i would have my Dad work with me because I really hate mess timing and can't get run before my work night shift.
Dad to fix Dizzy o-ring , got you.
timing belt. You mean I must remove valve cover to adjust lash when replace timing belt? Darn need new valve cover gasket.
I can't help you,sorry, if you do not want to follow the factory procedures.
But good I can check how clean valve train is. (and set the valve lash and set the belt tension as the factory manuals shows.
I went to advance there are no castrol since I love that. They don't make gear oil anymore? Where auto shop have castrol gear oil?
every region on earth has diff. popular brands or oil and lube. not all are represented by the oil refiners products. not at all.
Finding an oil (lube) the runs well in any transmission that has worn out syncro rings is a crap shoot, guess, and guess and spendlots of money.
Truth is any lube (suz spec) will work in a good tranny.
I see mobil 1 75w90 synthesis is that good? It cost $8.99 per quart.
I make new thread about oil brand.
do my chutch tests.
set the free play to zero! and see if you can shift easier.?????
some even pre load the clutch (short test around the block only !!!) ( that's negative clutch play)
to see if clutch is binding. ( tranny now shift ok, so clutch is bad)
clutch's can do many , many funny things.
warped PP, cracked disk to name just 2 of 50.
1: remove fan and t-belt cover.
2: cut off old belt with pocket knife. Duck. ouch
3: pound new belt back on with a large rubber mallet. ( dont be shy, let er have it)
you laugh, but I have seen this done many a time.
but , for my car, NO WAY IN "HE double TOOTH PICKS".
I notice very little if I drive in R then go 1 then 2 in quick it would grind in 2. But If I do slow no grind.
You think it due thick oil I put make this?
Clutch pedal is almost 1" play when I push with my finger so that mean it little out adjust cause this?
For spring in hub. When you turn hub to lock or free and there another spring push that thingy in free mode but where it get axle shaft to wheel. Do you understand? Problem is spring gone in it. That cause thingy stuck in hub to axle shaft cause engage all time until we found that it still in 4wd.
Geo tracker been sit for long time that why it rusty.
the hub is bad, you need a new hub. ( no one sells inside parts, so get one off the local wrecking yard,(dismantlers)
my link below on axle bearing and hubs has a link to the best web ever on this topic.
how to clean and lube the hubs. it is just standard maintenance of a hub and most likely yours are corroded as will be many things in any field found car .
see hub http://carfix.stufftoread.com/hubs/4WD-89-91a.jpg
see no part numbers for guts, yes, that means they don't sell them. (suz or GM)
on same page, is Manual Hub Clutch Assembly
see that , that is the best there is on this subject.
nothing more needs to be said or added, no?
read manual transmission and clutch articles. <<< free information
OK>
here is my crash course on banging gears.
1: always assume the clutch is bad (after all it costs $100 and tranny is $500-$1500)
clutches are crazy devices. they can do really strange things.
here is the first thing anyone with a grind problem should do.
go under car, and set the (part#19) in my clutch page such that the free play is zero.
(warning the puts stress on the throwout bearing so only do it for 1 hour )
now drive, (is it better )
yes, bad clutch
no, continue
I then, now, adjust that nut so that i have over tight clutch. I screw it in until the slack is gone then 5 turns more.
drive it again, (around the block only) huge stress as i pointed out.
is it better.
is throw out bearing crying and screaming ( i am bad).
ON any high mileage Manual , one has to keep in mind ,both the clutch and tranny need
repairs.
it is possible to have a bad clutch and then replace it and find the syncros are bad.
Testing the synco's with tranny out of car is close to impossible.
if it were mine ,id have the tranny all over the bench and parts ordered for a rebuild.
id ask for the mileage on your car but odometer only has 6 digits, making any answer useless.
You could have a simple cracked disc (clutch)
or a warped Pressure plate.
or bad diaphragm spring on Pressure plate.
or oil soaked disc , causing it to swell up in size and drag.
( the list is far more)
You have to do some tests to find out if it is the oil or is a bad clutch. I doubt you'd be shifting and depending on how you define cold -- it could be the weight oil you have in it. GL4 In my opinion is okay for decent weather instead of GL5 were it gets cold. Otherwise it will be harder to shift in cold weather until warmed.
Advanced Auto Parts does have castrol -- at least mine does.
I got lucky once and found 2 bottles of hypnoid gear oil and put it in my differential. I hope it does not mess it up as jtgh has posted one time or another it was bad. I won't complain because I only paid about $4 for 2 bottles of it.
i am sorry but Hard to shift means nothing at all.
did you know I can drive and shift my car with my clutch pedal removed.
its tricky but i can, ( i must park nose down hills)
(learn on a motorcycle then advance to cars, speed matching is the trick)
the above helps understand how clutches work.
TRANNY 1A:
anyone can tell in 1 minute, if the problem is clutch or tranny.
when you hold the clutch to the floor,
in drive way, hand brake set, no pets or people , or valuables in front or behind car. dig?
idling
then try all 6 gears. clutch depressed., if any of them grind the clutch is malfuntioning.
that assumes you can shift at all, (can you ? physically move the lever)
if you can't shift at all then report that.
you need to identify the specific clutch / tranny tests.
1: wont shift in to what gears? at all regardless of grinding.? at any speed. or stopped.
2: grinds, the following gears.xxxxx
3: whines in neutral.
4: makes noise in all gears or just xxxx gear.
5: i have trouble up shifting the following gears, because it grinds or it wont go forced.
6: I have trouble down shifting. , same as 5.
7 clutch pedal lightly depressed makes noise in the clutch housing.
8 when i crank engine ,car tries to move , in 1st gear with clutch depressed.
have you ever changed out the tranny oil ever.?
what GL4 oil type and weight. did you last use.
what are you temperatures that you drive in. 20c, or -40C
if you drain you Gear lube and it looks like black tar, you probably have a bad tranny.
measure the amount you drained out, this tells you yes or no the car was operated with low oil , very bad.
give us better symptoms and history.
and better advice comes back.
cheers.
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