What did I do to my baby?

SnakeyB · 10-25-2008, 09:19 AM

My 95 tin-top 16 valve 5 speed baby ran great, as I pulled up to my dead garden tractor that is in need of a new battery. I’ve done this half the summer. I know the procedure. I can do it in the dark, as I pulled out the dirty old jumper cables from the tractor barn. Wrong, as the jumper cables heat up and I can smell them getting hot. Kicking myself in the butt, I reverse the poles on the tractor, after reattaching one of the jumper clamps that got so hot it was ready to fall off. After doing it right, and getting the tractor started, I jump back in my baby and putt back to the garage, hoping I didn’t hurt her. Wrong, now my baby has problem with bogging [missing?] under acceleration. She starts fine, and after stumbling up to speed runs pretty good. She seems to be getting bad mpg, but will run pretty smoothly as long as the revs are up and not asking for more power. I am now heart sick, and feeling pretty dumb, what do you experts think happened to my pride and joy?

Well, there’s my story. I think you’ll probably tell me to tune her up (remember, I ‘m so cheap I wouldn’t even buy a battery for my tractor this season) and after reading your forum, and Jerry, I feel I raped my MAF.

Feeling pretty stupid in Kalamazoo

jtgh · 10-25-2008, 02:42 PM

odd that tractor battery was stronger than the kick battery.?
all accessories oFF, all.
Connect red post to red post.
then
Always connect frame ground to frame ground. (in old days we had chrome bumpers,sigh)

connecting frame last also protects you from battery explosion, (both ways , the spark or the over load kind)
after start, pull any frame ground first.

if you said exactly what you did , i might be able to see what was at risk.
questions:
was the kick battery main cables , clamped down all all times?

we get this all the time in the huge 8 floor parking garage , 10k cars.
blown ECUs , and many others parts, even expensive stereo, and other nav equip.
sad really.

I can tell you what it isnt.
Not list:
ECT , IAT , NO VSV Solenoids (egr or evap) ,

Can be MAF, MAP (as appropriate) ECU blown to kingdom come.
reverse polarity on anything electronic is the kiss of death.
even a load dump can be deadly.

after jump starting any machine , and you pull off that ground cable.
you can get a huge load dump SPIKE.
this spike can kill lots of electronics.
best is to disconnect your battery minus terminal
and connect your battery minus to the frame of the tractor , last.
then start tractor.
then the ECU is protected.

you might just have a bad maf , but they are more expensive used than ECUs
sometimes
also you can test it , with a simple voltmeter.

if found the full spec for it.

good day and tell me what you want to do.

cheers.

SnakeyB · 10-26-2008, 02:14 PM

Sorry it took me so long to check back. Sorry, I guess I told a fib about using the right jumping procedure, it was post to post ( bass ackwards). This forum really does not know how lucky they are to have a source like you , Jerry. I would like to thank you for all your help in advance. You really do not get enough credit.

While I was reading Jerry’s fine site, it occurred to me that my check engine light is not on while limping down the road. It does come on when while starting. Read about the procedure to get some error codes. The CEL would flicker, but throw no codes, relays clicking in the dash. Why no check engine light going down the road, or did I preform a lobotomy on my ECU with my color blind stupidity? I’ll do what you suggest, and if I ever get her back, she will get a full tuneup, new filters and a pedicure.

jtgh · 10-26-2008, 05:48 PM

the CEL must be out key off.
key on the CEL must be glowing ( this is ECU testing lamp, no lamp is bad news)
then when cranking as you cross 300 rpm the lamp will go out.
if after starting the lamp must stay out all the time. (running)

if it glows running, the ECU is wants to tell you the error, so go get it.

but fist.
pull the dome fuse( or neg battery lead at battery) this resets codes on these old cars.
then run again and see light rules above and my site for any codes or proc. to get codes.

MAP and ECU are not happy with reversals of polarity.

the ecu Im pretty sure has no protection for this type of fault.
more modern ecu have series diode to protect reversal. i dont see one here.
but on a 16v , i have less nfo.

the power just spreads all over the place on the ecu circuits. Kinda dumb of joe suzuki, but in early 90's that is par for course.
cheers.