1.8 not staying warm

[veggienft]

Thanks very much. I'm on it.

I forgot to mention that the fan turns and the radiator does not blow.

This car's smarter than I gave it credit for. The A/C has the proper 134 charge from a vacuum. Via your schematic, when coupled with the heater coming on, the rising temp into the fail safe condition says the 235F switch is probably kicking the clutch off.

I'm guessing, without a boil-over, that switch is operating closer to 200F. I'm pretty sure I've located the sensor wire. If it's normally off, couldn't I just disconnect it, re-cause the condition, and see if the A/C stays engaged through the same range?

P.S. I just looked and found the electric fan. I thought I knew that car ....working.....

Thanks again.
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Edit: Okay I'm running into the lack of documentation on the condition which turns on the condenser fan. Shouldn't that come on at some high engine temperature .......at a lower temperature than the 235F switch turns the compressor clutch off?

Or is the condensor fan just supposed to turn on after I turn the key off?

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Edit 2: I just tested battery voltage across the condenser fan motor. It didn't come on. Doesn't that mean the fan motor is busted (Texan for broken)?

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[veryboard]

My sidekick was blowing cold air till I changed the thermostat to a winter time one witch made a huge difference.I have a four door and it gets nice and warm now,just wish I would have changed thermostat last winter.There are two different temp ratings for the thermostats,but you probably knew that.Stay warm from Canada,veryboard.

[jtgh]

i run 195d F all year. better economy and better heat in winter.
this person is posting an AC failure problem, he must be in the sun belt.

this car shuts down AC if the engine over heats.
so he is not short of hot air, and me neither , HAHAHAHAH

[jtgh]

i will comment on these things.

most antifreeze boils at 275 deg. i think.
235 is 35 deg over normal, so if car is at 200 like it should be, and the
switch trips, then the switch is bad. you have get it to fail then put the meter on all lugs of the AC amp. that will show the failure.
The freeze input must be measured disconnected at AC amp for ohms.
that is the trick part.

Originally Posted by veggienft

Thanks very much. I'm on it.

I forgot to mention that the fan turns and the radiator does not blow.
id dont understand this?

This car's smarter than I gave it credit for. The A/C has the proper 134 charge from a vacuum. Via your schematic, when coupled with the heater coming on, the rising temp into the fail safe condition says the 235F switch is probably kicking the clutch off. ( it can, validly or invalidly if the 235 shitch is bad.

I'm guessing, without a boil-over, that switch is operating closer to 200F. I'm pretty sure I've located the sensor wire. If it's normally off, couldn't I just disconnect it, re-cause the condition, and see if the A/C stays engaged through the same range? I believe unplugging that sensor will kill a/c

P.S. I just looked and found the electric fan. I thought I knew that car ....working.....

Thanks again.
..


Edit: Okay I'm running into the lack of documentation on the condition which turns on the condenser fan.
Shouldn't that come on at some high engine temperature .......at a lower temperature than the 235F switch turns the compressor clutch off?

Or is the condensor fan just supposed to turn on after I turn the key off?
I can not find anyone or thing that knows this.

..

Edit 2: I just tested battery voltage across the condenser fan motor. It didn't come on. Doesn't that mean the fan motor is busted (Texan for broken)? by didnt come on mean the 12vdc didnt arrive across the fan termimals?

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[jtgh]

get it to fail then test it , there is no other way.

if it aint busted , dont fix it. LOL, but true.

intermittant?

[veggienft]

Originally Posted by jtgh

by didnt come on mean the 12vdc didnt arrive across the fan termimals?

I mean I sent 12 volts through the condenser fan motor and it didn't work.

Thanks

P.S. You guys stop making fun of our Houston winters. It's gettin' down to 40 here tonight. ......brrrrrr!

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[veryboard]

This thread got jacked pretty good,started out being a heater problem and turned into an AC problem.All temperature problems in one thread.Kinda confusing when title of thread is "1.8 not staying warm". veggienft should have started another thread that way people with the same AC problem can find an answer without asking the same questions.Did original poster solve his problem would be nice to know that.

[jtgh]

12dcv across fan terms = bad fan motor.
place it across a battery (duck blades) see it not spin, it,s bad.
or as you did , its bad. (be sure to be at fan terms and not before fan relay, during test)

my fsm and web page , shows the logic for all the failures.
but id does not explain the rules for the operation of that front condenser fan.
wish it did.
I dont think it runs full time with AC turned on either.
I suspect (?) it might come on, at certain ambient temperatures.
I dont have one, so cant play with it.

yes,dont be shy to start a new post, AC is on blitz or, cab heater dead or engine runs to cold.


BTW i think the dead fan up front will cause only low AC performance at red lights
on hot days. soon as you get going ,AC will get colder.

if you figure out the front cond. fan logic , please do post it. i will recorder it.
cheers.

[veggienft]

I found time, drilled the fan motor housing welds and took it apart. It has a disk-shaped armature. The disk face has only about 1/8" clearance from the housing flange. The brushes had worn, and brush dust had formed a few balls which were shorting the armature to the chasis. I cleaned out the brush dust, and the motor started working again.

I reinstalled the fan in the zuki. I'll try to find warm enough weather to test it, and guess at the startup rules.

Thanks again.

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[aquanaut20]

Originally Posted by jtgh

no man on earth ever did that and make it work the bend tab on plastic / alum radiator.
bless the one that proves me wrong !

I have indeed completed that exercise on several Rads (Ford Expolers), never on a Suzi/Tracker, but if I was to throw it away, I would attempt the repair first.

Gentle on the AL tabs and use good RTV on the gasket surface on reassembly.