what car? , which sensor front or back.?
retracting a non heated sensor makes it go dead. 0v .
retracking a heated sensor , cause it to go to lean. low:
zero or Low = signals LEAN, so ECU dumps tons of extra fuel, all it can really
following the max, rules for O2 authority. 20% max is a good guess.
The result is more power, and horrible gas mileage.
so just unplug both O2 and drive it with the lights on. More power, less MPG.
Truth:
varies by car ,year, engine and ECU PN.
so it will fool some ECUs (the down stream) and others NOT.
My miata 96 and 99 can not be fooled. (im a tech and tried all 10 ways,passive,active and mechancal ,like mentioned here.) { i was testing the theory for someone ,offroad)
Some cars have dumber ECUs .
The upstream will not be fooled !, any ECU 96+.
it must toggle if it does not , the ECU with puke codes.
the rear
it must wonder. , it does not toggle, if it toggles the CAT is bad. and 420 is net results.
the best ECU'S test the wander, if it dont wander as predicted , the 420 happens.
Not all CAT monitors are equal. Experiment a way, but why?
But when the smog test comes out, you have dead Cats , melted to crap.
why?
OXYGEN SENSORS
just be aware that some smog stations are ordered to do visual on certain results.
and this adaptor is proof of tampering.
kinda automatic guilty.
same as unplugging CEL.
be careful.
In Calif. they put you in a special class and get reinspected every year and fines for tampering.
btw the best tested rear mimic is just that.
the ones the connect the front and back together and then mimic the wander do in fact work perfect but I will not mention any names.
just count the wires, read the words. how it works.
INput front, process>>> send to rear sensor.
that is what I know about this.
dont ask how, im not here.......