engine removal

rudar · 10-16-2008, 12:47 PM

Well, this started as a "simple" head gasket removal, and is still stymied by seized crank pulley bolts that I can't easily drill out, because my drill doesn't fit between the bolts and the front member of the frame. And also, the oil pan is pretty drenched with oil, which I suspect means the oil pan gasket should ideally be replaced. Does this sound like the right diagnosis, considering it gets a bit drier further up?:

So given those two problems, might it be easier to just lift the engine out of the car? How heavy is it, and can I improvise a lift, or should I buy/rent a proper engine hoist?

Wuppy · 10-16-2008, 01:36 PM

Your diagnosis sounds about right

Note: if this was a running car I'd suggest you shampoo the engine with some spray degreaser you can pick up at your parts store, After a week or 2 or driving you could see where the oil is coming from and pinpoint speciffic leaks it a little easier

I think its safe to say you have a pan gasket leak. Don't forget to check the oil pressure sensor plug. Its on the same side as the filter and above the manifold. They tend to leak oil onto the manifold and down the side of the engine. Its about a $20 part.

With regards to removing the engine, it would be safest to use a proper hoist which can be rented or bought. You can make your own "A FRAME" to remove the engine, as long as its sturdy and you have a good ratchet/come along to winch the engine out with. I've done just that quite a few times over the years outside then brought the engine inside my garage/workshop on a wheeled cart to repair etc.

You may want to drain the engine oil and depending on your car, remove the hood.

I have found it easiest to remove the engine and transmission while they are still mated to each other:
- Roll car under your lift or A frame and attach the chain/cable to the engine's lift point on the top of the engine.
- Jack up the front wheels a foot or so to give yourself some room under there.
- Tighten up chain/cable just enough so there is no slack in the line but not enough to lift anything.
- Remove the RAD/AC condenser and alt/compressor etc/hoses/gas lines/wiring harnesses
- Disconnect the drive shaft
- Secure the transmission cross member at the rear of the transmission with a jack stand to keep it from falling towards the ground and unbolt the rear of the transmission from it and/or it from the frame.
- Unbolt the main engine mounts
- Check to make sure everything is disconnected from the engine
- Slowly lift your engine/trans out with your come along or engine lift etc.
- Have a friend help to "steer/tilt" the front of the engine upwards it so it will clear the front grill. You should then have the engine and transmission out togeather.

Hope this helps

jtgh · 10-16-2008, 02:09 PM

id say, forget the pan, that leak can be anywhere.
imagine squirting oil and a spinning fan in your house, where is the oil going.
right,everywhere.

the only way to troubleshoot leaks, is to first clean it all spic and span.
i mean clean as a whistle.
then drive 10miles, and look, repeat until truth is found, you will find it. trust me.
ok now the real problem.

first off , you can get 90 AIR and electric driller motors,
you can buy them or rent them. they also sell a 90 deg. drill adaptors.

drill them all out.
then just thow away the cog wheel.
buy a new one or get on off a wrecker.

just get a high speed 1/4 drill bit (no china junk) the real quality drill the bolts are case hardened , then drill thru the head. the smack it with a chistle, its is now gone.

8v engine? i cant quite tell? exhaust looks 8valve ish.

https://www.trademotion.com/partloca...&siteid=214330

$20 fix
get quality matching metric bolts, from sam guy.
then use antisieze .on the threads.

20 drill, 20 cog, done.

do you have shop air, Harbor frieght has a 90 deg air drill cheap.

sorry BC ,no HF.
blush.

you have heavy salt damage there, and you will have lots of issues like this.

before removing that big nut, use heat, get it up to 300 def F.
just incase last guy used locktite on it. red or blue code.

rudar · 10-16-2008, 02:28 PM

Good points. I'm leaning towards buying an engine hoist for $100 off craigslist (there's three on there in that ballpark) and then selling it for $100 when I'm done. Less money out of pocket than fussing around with $30 90-degree adapters, or $60 dedicated angled drills. And while it's true that the oil leak could be coming from anywhere, I rather suspect it's coming from everywhere, and it'll be far easier to replace the pan gasket now, when the engine's half disassembled anyway, than to have to disconnect everything later to lift the engine to get at it...

So is the consensus that it's easier to pull the engine and tranny together, or to leave the tranny in place and unbolt the bell housing?

(oh, and yeah, 8valve 1.6L 1991 geo tracker 4wd 5spd)

Sheermadnesskick · 10-16-2008, 02:36 PM

I think it's much easier to pull just the engine and leave the trans in place. I just did mine 2 days ago and it took me 1.25 hours to remove it and 2 hours to re-install it (alone). -Ed

rudar · 10-16-2008, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wuppy

Don't forget to check the oil pressure sensor plug. Its on the same side as the filter and above the manifold. They tend to leak oil onto the manifold and down the side of the engine. Its about a $20 part.

Is that red sensor just above the oil filter (i.e. under the manifold) not the oil pressure sensor plug?

jtgh · 10-16-2008, 04:14 PM

amazing identical to mine. ( 2 door?)

a 5sp tranny kick engine is a piece of cake to pull and put back.
lots of room there.
just leave tranny sitting on its crossmember. and block up the the front of it, unbolt it,
in fact it is real pain to take out tranny, pull console , pull shifters and all that.
easy but lots of time wasted for not.

i agree with you on pulling it, it does look like it needs lots of TLC.
while out , new front and rear seal.
new pan gasket and new VC gasket.
dont forget that pesky DIzzy o-ring at the base and the base to block , they love to crank in half.
i hate leaks too.

ah and a new clutch. that would make it a sweet deal.
or new throwout,pilot bearing and disc only. if PP looks perfect.

rudar · 10-16-2008, 04:34 PM

bah, the distributor can be done later, if it leaks

It's trivial to get at with the engine put back together. On the other hand, if the seals are trivially cheap... Might as well, I guess.

What's the VC gasket? My extensive (ha!) knowledge of car acronyms is failing me on this one

Oh! Valve cover? Of course. That has to come off to get at the head gasket, whether the engine comes out or not...

I'll have a look at the clutch parts, the FLAPS's price list, and my bank balance, once the engine is out. And then I'll probably decide to go into deficit spending and replace them all anyway

aquanaut20 · 10-16-2008, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rudar

Good points. Less money out of pocket than fussing around with $30 90-degree adapters, or $60 dedicated angled drills. And while it's true that the oil leak could be coming from anywhere,

(oh, and yeah, 8valve 1.6L 1991 geo tracker 4wd 5spd)

Go down to Princess Auto or KMS tools, both in Coquitlam, close to Ikea. I picked up a 90deg air angle drill, for $39.00Cad a week ago.

You may have a front main seal leaking, oil behind the main balancer/pulley.

I would pull the engine, steam clean, replace front and rear main seals as requiered and the oil pan gasket. While it is out open the clutch pack and re/re the pressure plate and throw out bearing.

I hate getting things back together and have a secondary failure on a part that was out in the open that didn't check.

jtgh · 10-17-2008, 12:40 PM

Right Angle Drill Adapter w/ 90 PC Bit set
i have one of these from Sears.

aqua is spot on.
and easier to pay off visa than pull it again.
whole clutch kit is $125usd or so.

sorry VC is valve cover.
just protect dizzy base during pull it can get damaged easy. 2x6 block of wood behind it.

cheers