Your kidding me right?

[-Lawless]

Over the last week I have put in numerous hours replacing:
Cap, rotor, wires, air, fuel and oil filters (and oil of course) and the PCV valve.
I set the IAC valve when cold, set the timing, repaired numerous wiring issues the PO left me with. Replaced the coolant sensor and fan belts. All of the CEL fault codes are cleared.....finally! Ready for emissions....or am I?

Not quite.

Now I found out the water pump is squealing madly.
This is the LAST thing I need to go bad while I'm out in the desert!
Soo it looks like I'll be replacing the water pump and the timing belt (while I'm there)

Just a quick tip. If you have a squealing noise that is hard to find, try this.
I used a plastic tube, you can use a piece of PVC pipe or anything like that.
Normally I would use a stethoscope/screwdriver method to find unusual noises but the high pitch is hard to find with that. I tried. Anyway, putting one end of the pipe to your ear and the other facing each component, you can narrow down the exact area it is coming from. PLEASE PLEASE make sure your careful and keep the pipe away from moving parts like the belts and fan.

Maybe this is a good thing. It still runs pretty bad when cold especially if I set the timing at 8 degrees BTDC. I had to keep it at 12 degrees to run smooth.
I'm guessing that just maybe, the belt slipped a tooth. It has about 94K miles on it and I'm pretty sure it's never been replaced.

Wish me luck!

[jtgh]

it slipped, and any failure in a drive way is a blessing from the almighty !


you slipped a tooth.
but 8v is free running so , no panic.

avoid china pumps. try to find quality. it is not easy. OEM is best. but there are others.
No rebuilds either, many have the screw hole for the idle wheel sandblasted to destruction , look carefully.

make sure its a 8v pump too. many have them mixed wrong in the box.

timing belt swap

now has 8v and 16v pages.(new)

if you go to the trouble of doing seal too , ( i wouldn't less leaking, as damage happens sometimes doing it)
That crank seal can be a pistol to swap!

YMMV.
be sure to Mark the Cam Cog gear , key way slot. Its not in the FSM either !!!
so mark it or don't lose my page link.

check my torque page, on main page top.

chears

[-Lawless]

That's great Jerry thank you once again!

It's just disheartening. After all of that work something complete unrelated goes bad... It's fine though, like I said it probably needed to be fixed real soon anyway and better now than in the middle of wheeling far from home.

I planned on replacing the valve cover gasket anyway so your guide telling me to adjust the lifters is perfect timing.

[jtgh]

yes, things can stackup on old cars.
but they all need a Tune up and a belt, all old kicks. (PO's never do this, mostly)
Water pumps are only good for 70k? and most shops replace it with all belts. after all why replace them out of order, if the both are bad at 70k, is the logic. and good too. IMHO.


i'd replace the idler, vc gasket and belt and pump as a minimum.
many recommend doing plan B with 2 new seals, but many people will have grave difficulty replacing them. (one could pull cam to make it safe. but now one wants to pull oil pump )

if the seal is good and the surface it rides on looks very clean the it is most likely good to run. if it the running seal lip surface is damaged , pitted or rusted. then replace the lower cog.
a thin patina of rust on this part can be cleaned off with Corcus cloth (ultra fine sand paper)

if the idler ever siezes , goodbye belt.

stuff to think about for a desert runner !

if you do the bottom seal, get this

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

and protect the crank snout with coke bottle plastic and Duct tape.
and go slow.
inspect key way. (common fail point)


TCk164 Gates ! Gates is a major supplier to OEMs, (out of Car factory!)

i run gates 100% on all belts ,all cars.

Just dont buy their gooffy coolant hoses. get OEM.

[-Lawless]

Changed out the water pump and timing belt.
By the way, you don't have to remove the radiator. It might make it easier but not necessary. Adjusted the valve lashings and set the timing. Wow this thing runs MUCH better, even on cold mornings, and the squeal is finally gone!

Took it to the emissions testing center and pass the CO and HC tests with flying colors. Unfortunately I failed the visual.
The PO had turned the vapor canister up side down and the vapor recovery line going back to the gas tank is apparently leaking somewhere. I failed the pressure test. The canister is back in correctly but I can't seem to find the leak.
I hooked up my compressor and added a little pressure (about 15 psi) and soaked everything down with soapy water. no bubbles...
I think I can hear a bit of a hissing near the gas tank but not sure. I soaked that area down too but no bubbles.
I might have to drop the tank to get a better view.

Any other ideas you can think of I can try? I'm afraid it might be where the sending unit drops into the tank but not sure.

[jtgh]

you are crafty mech, pressure and suds , very smart.
thank is infamous for rusting On TOP.
hope it is just a hose, and there are MANY.

have drawings, if need be.

on manual cars i always pull rad.
2 reasons.
1 so id dont smash the fins
2: good time to flush heck out of it both directions and to blow the crap out of fins ,far from hose and garage.
3: easier to work on cars that way.

[-Lawless]

Turned out the leak was the fuel/air separator mounted to the top of the gas tank. It is a small plastic tank that "seems" to make sure fuel doesn't get circulated back to the carbon canister.
Anyway it had a crack at the seam and I used epoxy to repair it.
I'll take it back through emission testing today to see if all that hard work paid off.

[-Lawless]

it Passed!!!!

[jtgh]

a spot of poxy and Bliss , you are doing A+ !

happy trails.