crank pulley bolts

[rudar]

Three of my five allen-headed crank pulley bolts came off nicely. The other two didn't: the allen bit grease out and rounded the bolt off

So I tried just stuffing an extractor into the round-ish hole, but that just greased out and rounded it even more... It does say to drill to 1/4", and the current hole is probably a bit smaller than that. Anyone know how deep you'd need to drill it to 1/4"? I'm concerned I'll drill it too deep and then pop the head right off the bolt... Or should I drill for a smaller extractor, so I'd drill into the bolt body, rather than just the head? Last time I tried extracting a stuck bolt with a small extractor, I merely managed to break off the extractor... Any other suggestions on how to do this? Maybe gouge out a slot in the head in some way and use a flat bit in an impact wrench?

Also, for better access, I figured I'd remove the bumper and grille. How in FSM's name are you expected to get the bolts holding those inside the wheel well out? The hex bolt for the fender has mangled plastic all over it and I can't get a wrench on, and the phillips screw for the grille has the bumper right in front of it, so I can't get a screwdriver anywhere close... And of course both are rusted and seized, so I'm going to need to apply more than a few inch-pounds of torque to loosen them...

[jtgh]

crank pulley bolts.
slot it with the Drimmel and the tiny carbo. disc.
then heat it with propane torch
then as it cools , penetrating oil. wd40 or any really .
repeat a few times. the cooling creates a vacuum in side that might suck in the wd40
then use impact wrench on slot. easy does it.
if that fails, just cut of head.
then remove the cog wheel , (17mm center bolt is 94 ft /lbs ( new spec on it !)
then take to a bench and center punch the bad bold.
then start with tiny drill and piliot drill it dead center ( this gets you started centered)
then work up to the correct tap drill that matches the mm correct bolt size
as you work out you can may be peal the old thread out in one piece.

baring all that, just buy a new or used cog.

cheers

easy outs , are a oxymoron, they are hard-outs.

[rudar]

OK, will try that. Though I'm not sure I can actually get a dremel into there; it's pretty tight. And my plan was to have the head off and gasket replaced, well, yesterday, and put it all back together today...

Would it make sense to remove the cog wheel now, since I can't seem to remove the bumper and grille to get access? Will that screw up the timing, if I do that before I've seen and marked the timing belt? Is messing aboot with a propane torch close to a very very oily oil pan a dangerous idea?

Is spraying penetrating oil onto hot metal (which I've just heated with the propane torch) a fire hazard?

ETA: I assume I *can't* remove the cog wheel now, because the belt is under tension, and I can't de-tension it before removing the cover, which is behind the pulley?

[rudar]

Even with my friend's flex shaft, I can't get a dremel wheel in anywhere close to square on, so that option isn't going to work.

I also can't fit a drill in there to just drill the heads off and worry about it later, unless I cut a drill bit off to about 1" long and then reshape and resharpen the point, and that sounds like it would be a royal pain.

So, can I loosen the 17mm center bolt and slip the cog, timing belt cover, and pulley off all together, despite the timing belt still being under tension? Would I be better off de-tensioning the belt catastrophically (I could probably bend the timing cover far enough to slip a knife in there...) first?

[ranger88den]

Please remove everything in the correct order you won't regret it, if you try the quick "down & dirty " method you probably will. I had the same problem, but only one crank pulley bolt broken the rest removed okay. I got the timing gear off and drilled the factory bolt out from the backside of the gear (factory bolts have a depression in the tip of the bolt that centers the drill bit) while increasing the drill bit size increments and adding penetrating oil. The heat from the drilling, penetrating oil application, and grab of the larger bit threaded the bolt out the front of the gear. Good luck and be patient

[djunkees]

Same thing for me-nice recess in bolt tip helped keep bit centered, didn`t even need the extractor after all!

[rudar]

Yeah, it turns out removing the sprocket requires holding the flywheel, which is hidden behind a cover plate which is sandwiched between the crank case and the bell housing. I do not want to start splitting that all open.

Today's plan is to go buy one of these:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=575
in hopes it'll let me get a carbide disk in to slot the bolt heads. Then I'll do a few heat-oil-cool cycles, and try the impact drill again.

[rudar]

OK, next question, in case tonight's plan does not give me joy.

I tried removing the 17mm sprocket nut, and my breaker bar moved the pulley maybe 20-30 degrees while pressure was applied, and then it moved back to where it started when I released pressure. So the clutch is not slipping; I assume this is just taking up slack in the drive-train or something? Question is, can I keep pushing the breaker bar, or am I risking breaking something somewhere else if I apply too much torque to the 17mm nut without holding the flywheel? It's in fifth, parking brake on, one wheel chocked...

[djunkees]

The pulley bolt has been torqued to a minimum of 50ftlbs and should actually be around 98ftlbs I believe, which means youll probably need to hold the flywheel. Removing the starter may be the easiest way to access the flywheel using a heavy prybar probably with a good bend in it.

[djunkees]

This might be a good time to consider a timing belt replacement since you`ll be needing to remove it anyway.