Replacing ECU

[-Lawless]

appreciate the offer.
I looked closer at the connector and on mine there is a wire release.
I was able to just pull out the pins attached to the wire and crimp them a bit. I then insulated them and hooked them back up without using the old broken connector. Back to adjusting everything else now that I no longer get code 14 and CEL is off again. lol

Now out of nowhere, my Alternator is squealing. Nope not the belt I tried the bar of soap trick to no avail. It's pretty loud so I'll remove the belt just to make sure it's the alt and see if it's the bearings.

I guess my Tracker wanted to stay broke because now that I'm fixing her up, she keeps teasing me with other little things.

[savage4]

Hi guys,
I am new here, and think I have a real big problem.
My wife's 93' Geo Tracker won't start.
Have checked all the usual stuff like fuel,spark,etc., and all is ok.
Then I sprayed some brakecleaner into the hose coming from the airfilter, and it started right away, without any problems.
When I switch it off and then try to start again it just won't.
The only way to get it started is by spraying again.
I also have a relay going wild under the dash.
Replaced it but still the same.
The relay is located on the frame of the ECU.
Also tried to check for DCodes ,But it turnedout that someone tookout the CEL.
After replacing the CEL, it stays on.
I think that the ECU is the problem, and have been looking for one, but the problem is that there are not many trackers in holland.
The ECU number is 33920-56B30
Can someone please help ????

[jtgh]

56b30 are common as nails

this clicking thing is common.

top causes ( as posted here)

1: Fuel pump pulling tons of current overload ECU cause to reset, 12v power over load.
Pump is 4amps normal draw, if it pulls 14.9amps you have a serious problem.

2: ECU caps (corner one bad, cost $1 and 10 mins labor to solder in a newone.
3: ECU is bad. really, not just caps. (rare)

pull the CEL codes, by placing the paper clip jumper as my blink pages show.

YOU can prove the theory by hot wiring the FUEL pump.
see pink/black wire on relay control.
connect it to the Cigarette lighter plug center lead (hot wires fuel pump)

now the PUMP CAN NOT over load ECU.

this is a weakness in the kicks, the wire gage is poor for fuel pump.

i think there is an error shown in the relaycontrol of suz. schematic.
the wire on the left coil reaching to right is wrong. so dont believe it.
i thing it should go down one wire.

if it were mine ,id measure the pump current.
then replace the cap. if current is ok.

put meter on 20amp range, move test leads to 20amp pins, leads in series with either side of pump.

[Rhinoman]

Originally Posted by jtgh

i think there is an error shown in the relaycontrol of suz. schematic.
the wire on the left coil reaching to right is wrong. so dont believe it.
i thing it should go down one wire.

Thats definately wrong. The pink should only go to the relay coil and the feed for the fuel pump should come from the switched 12V (black/white). They obviously didn't check that very well.

[jtgh]

yes, and i keep finding errors like that, on one dwg for the starter
i it shows the inside of solenoid wired up all wrong.
just got to keep eye on joe suzuki that draftmen , in osaka. LOL.

[savage4]

Tanks for the reply

Did the things you told me to.

the pump current is OK, replaced the caps.
but still the same story.....

The CEL is still on, and I cannot read codes.
tried to reset ECU but still... (disconected negative lead to battery,pulled #3 fuse(dome rearlight)...

I think the ECU is the problem.

Originally Posted by jtgh

56b30 are common as nails

this clicking thing is common.

top causes ( as posted here)

1: Fuel pump pulling tons of current overload ECU cause to reset, 12v power over load.
Pump is 4amps normal draw, if it pulls 14.9amps you have a serious problem.

2: ECU caps (corner one bad, cost $1 and 10 mins labor to solder in a newone.
3: ECU is bad. really, not just caps. (rare)

pull the CEL codes, by placing the paper clip jumper as my blink pages show.

YOU can prove the theory by hot wiring the FUEL pump.
see pink/black wire on relay control.
connect it to the Cigarette lighter plug center lead (hot wires fuel pump)

now the PUMP CAN NOT over load ECU.

this is a weakness in the kicks, the wire gage is poor for fuel pump.

i think there is an error shown in the relaycontrol of suz. schematic.
the wire on the left coil reaching to right is wrong. so dont believe it.
i thing it should go down one wire.

if it were mine ,id measure the pump current.
then replace the cap. if current is ok.

put meter on 20amp range, move test leads to 20amp pins, leads in series with either side of pump.

[jtgh]

There are many posts on this forum with this exact symptoms.
it usually is:
bad ECU.
bad wiring to ECU
or
overload on the power lines that are shared with the ECU. (pump and others things)

start disconnecting things from ECU to see if the clicking stops.
start with all solenoids

a current meter (amp clamp DC amps ) comes in real handy in this sitution..

you might be able to findit by probing all the power pins on the ecu and look for pulsing.
using the Volt scale of the meter.
then if you find that , then start pulling things connected to THAT line.

that is my help here.

this car doesnt have the USA federal 48 SES slide switch too , does it.?
50k,80k miles, CEL lamp on , for Mileage ?

[savage4]

I read most of the post.
also checked for the switch but no, no switch.
I found a ECU (used) with the same number but mine clearly says "US MT" on the label and the one I found "EU MT".
So europe manual trans.
Do you know if that will be a problem ??

In one of the post there was a pic of the ECU, and the caps that might need to be replaced, but I can't open it.
Do you have a pic for me??

Originally Posted by jtgh

There are many posts on this forum with this exact symptoms.
it usually is:
bad ECU.
bad wiring to ECU
or
overload on the power lines that are shared with the ECU. (pump and others things)

start disconnecting things from ECU to see if the clicking stops.
start with all solenoids

a current meter (amp clamp DC amps ) comes in real handy in this sitution..

you might be able to findit by probing all the power pins on the ecu and look for pulsing.
using the Volt scale of the meter.
then if you find that , then start pulling things connected to THAT line.

that is my help here.

this car doesnt have the USA federal 48 SES slide switch too , does it.?
50k,80k miles, CEL lamp on , for Mileage ?

[jtgh]

ok savage , NL, (i used to work for Philips for 4 years)
what are you symtoms Savage?

NL cars do not have SES lamp function so if the lamp is on at key on no start that is normal.
if it goes out after start that is good too but if it comes on after starting or any running
then it is saying you have Active/or old, error codes.
Dome fuse clears them
if they come back , they are real.
this is the old style of OBD1 way of doing things, very crude.
if the CEL is active and you cant read it out, the ECU is bad( my best judgement)
next:

the orig. poster here , lawless , has a clicking ECU /MAIN relay.
this is a unique problem ,(common) and can be
it is cause by only 2 things
1: bad ecu.
2: power to ECU bad
3: MAIN contacts bad ( which really is #2 if you see how main works)

the ECU closes main and the MAIN power ECU.
that dont make sense but is true.
the ECU just has a diode to ground inside it,and pluging in the ECU , grounds the MAIN
and then MAIN energizes and feeds power to the ECU and then it BOOTS up.
but.
if the there are ANY shorts on the MAIN out buss, the ECU will CRASH.
if voltage sags below about 8vdc the ECU goes too sleep or starts messing up big time.
Kinda like a man with a beautiful woman on each arm, he malfunctions.

heheeheheh

[savage4]

Thanks for the reply.
have found the pic of the ecu on you site.
I have changed the C111 and the C103.
Tomorow i'm going to change the C101 and the 105 also.
Do i have to ground the ECU ???
I have tested it after repacing the caps but just pluged it in.

b.t.w. the car is a GEO tracker 93'
1.6 2wd manual trans.

Originally Posted by jtgh

ok savage , NL, (i used to work for Philips for 4 years)
what are you symtoms Savage?

NL cars do not have SES lamp function so if the lamp is on at key on no start that is normal.
if it goes out after start that is good too but if it comes on after starting or any running
then it is saying you have Active/or old, error codes.
Dome fuse clears them
if they come back , they are real.
this is the old style of OBD1 way of doing things, very crude.
if the CEL is active and you cant read it out, the ECU is bad( my best judgement)
next:

the orig. poster here , lawless , has a clicking ECU /MAIN relay.
this is a unique problem ,(common) and can be
it is cause by only 2 things
1: bad ecu.
2: power to ECU bad
3: MAIN contacts bad ( which really is #2 if you see how main works)

the ECU closes main and the MAIN power ECU.
that dont make sense but is true.
the ECU just has a diode to ground inside it,and pluging in the ECU , grounds the MAIN
and then MAIN energizes and feeds power to the ECU and then it BOOTS up.
but.
if the there are ANY shorts on the MAIN out buss, the ECU will CRASH.
if voltage sags below about 8vdc the ECU goes too sleep or starts messing up big time.
Kinda like a man with a beautiful woman on each arm, he malfunctions.

heheeheheh