seized caliper piston

[SIDETRACKED]

so I am trying to do a brake job.

And I cannot push down the caliper piston, I even used a giant C- clamp with no luck. I removed the screw (i think 14mm) and brake fluid started pouring out, and still no luck

So does that mean I have a seized caliper piston. How do I fix this problem?

Thank everyone!

[-Lawless]

Make sure you are compressing it equally in the middle of the piston.
I use the old brake pad over the piston and compress directly in the center.

[SIDETRACKED]

Yes did that it does not move

[-Lawless]

Ya, kinda figured you might have....

You "might" try carefully slightly turning the piston back and forth maybe 1/16 of an inch while trying to re-seat the piston back into the caliper. If the rotor is worn too much and you ran the pads metal to metal, the piston may have overshot the maximum outward travel and locked up.
Best thing might be to either replace the caliper or rebuild it once it has gotten that far. There are seals around the piston and if they locked up, they might be damaged at this point. You can take it apart and inspect it at this point and rent/borrow the hoaning tool at Autozone. This will clean up the interior caliper sleeve and get it ready for the new seals.

[rickf]

Sounds like it is seized. Did that side wear out faster than other side? Is the other side OK? If it is seized and you want to try to rebuild it your self, take it completely off car and put it in a vise,use a piece of wood between piston and caliper,to prevent damage, take your blow gun(assuming you have air comp) blow air thru where brake hose hooks up(leave bleeder tight. See if that will dislodge piston.Be careful and do it slowly, will come out with gusto prolly.
Hope this helps.
rickf

[SIDETRACKED]

how do i remove the hose from the old caliper? I am planning on buying some new calipers

[rickf]

The brake hose should just unscrew from the caliper.
rickf

[jtgh]

what year ,what drive train, 4wd?
the piston is rusted to the caliper.
there is a simple ring grove in the caliper side and that has a flat type o-ring.
this o-ring will not stop pistion from comming out, nor will the piston jam by some magic.

if it is that rusted, you are best served by buying loaded calipers.
if one side is rusted , well both sides are, purging the fluid every year or 2 years stops this.
price the loaded's they are less than calipers rebuilt + pads.

yes you can hone them and then try to buy new pistions and seals, but the down time will be huge.
HERE IS MY LOADed calipers.
note the new boots and new pins and new guides that all go bad too after 17 years.
brake overhaul

i found cracks in the discs, rotors, look very carefully for them , they are DANGERous TO THE MAX. Look then look again,
imagine locking a wheel at 60mph.

you need a basic brake manual.
rebuilding brakes with out some basics can lead to , unfortunate surprises.

even a crappy haynes or reading autozoned dot come can be better than nothing.


good news ,unlike many car co.s Suzuki sells piston seal kits.
but but the seal lands must be perfect or it will leak. (mostlY)
if you need detailed pn, then tell car type.