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Old 10-05-2008, 06:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 93 sidekick 8valve cranks no start no spark

Have had this sidekick for about a year, regularly maintained.

Last week was heading out to work, cranked and started fine, when I went into reverse it died, put 'er back in park and would no longer start.

Much of the information is being passed on to me as I've not been the one doing much of the work, but so far:

No spark
Sufficient power TO coil (tested)
Replaced coil with known working one, still no spark
Tested ECU (swapped with another known working one, still no spark)
Fuel Pump tested (and relay pulled still no spark)
Replaced dizzy with known working one still no spark
Timing belt is not damaged
Spark plugs/wires are new, replaced last month and has run fine until now.
Battery tested/replaced with new one, still no spark.
Checked all grounds, looked for corrosion/obvious wiring problems, nothing seems apparent.

Have had my brother-in-law who specializes in sidekicks/trackers for the past few years look at this, he's worked on dozens and he's baffled, worked on it for a few days so far, can't figure it out.

Like I said, has a strong crank but won't spark.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and if any additional info is required I will try to provide asap.

Hope I'm not forgetting anything

Thanks!
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Neutral/park safety switch?
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default NO START blues. 8v. 93

test spark out of coil not out of dizzy, put spark plug wire into coil and test.

ok i will make a list of all things 93 8v. my web page has no start issue.
Cranks-but-no-start

(assuming power and ground to all proper pins of ECU connector green)
1: CAS bad or wires to it broken ( in dizzy) can be tested with LED or Voltmeter cranking.
2: ECU bad.
3: Ignitor bad ( can be tested may ways)
4: coil bad , output of coil that big wire is open , try using spark plug wire coil to wire to plug and ground.
5: Igntion suppressor module bad.
6: cam not spinning.


here is my bench tester.
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/IGN_ti...-sim-ecu1w.jpg

all things on top of ECU (above ) most be good to start.(and sustain running)
forget bottom half .
for get fuel pump too, and injectioon, and VSS

other than power, we are talking the 6 pins upper left.
note my bench coil is just a resistor for testing, imagine a coil there.

if pin a1 is bad , (input) the car will crank make spark but will die immediately after starting (1sec). this is the spark read back pin and must be good or
all injection is killed. ( fire and crash protection it is and is mandatory to have it)



real schemo 8v:
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/Schem-...-1991-jtgh.jpg

last;
power and ground, critical.
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/P&G.JPG
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Last edited by jtgh : 10-06-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i am suprised your mechanic , does not now how to use a DSO.
really suprised. ( cas and Ignitor sigs are easy to measure)

more secrets below:

1: my bench tester , makes spark with the filter supresser removed ! but will not not inject.

2: the ECU has a secret test called CAS and ignitor fail , in the FSM.
a: place diagnstic jumper paper clip. into DLC
b: crank engine for 3 seconds (ECU only runs test for 3 seconds)
c: look for code 41 or 42. flashing.

if the ST signal is not making it from Ignition switch to the ECU then this test can not be run, in fact the ecu will not think you are cranking if that signal is missing , but infact will think you are bump starting. (EG:coasting ,dump clutch in 2nd gear)
the ST signal can be blocked by the clutch.swtich.

here are my bench tests, just now.

1 DLC jumper placed, code 12 flashing out.
2: I crank engine, with ST signal open , i get spark and code 42 .
reset power.
3: i close ST start signal , and I pull the ign suppr. filter, and spin CAS.
i get code 41.
in each case i get spark.
but in each case car would die , because loss of spark read back A1 pin to ECU.

4: one more secret, the CEL lamp is on at key on, no start ( DLC not jumpered)
then you crank ,when CAS hits 300 RPM the CEL goes out.
this tells you the CAS is working ,( you might need to remove spark plugs to get to 300 rpm) but it is a valid test.

Place the jumper and crank away.
report.


with out a real FSM , you'd never be aware of these tests.
there are flow charts and full data on cod 41 and 42. and there special nature.

cheers
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if forgot my guess:

bad ignitor is my guess. but i need that DLC test above to be sure.

keep in mind , 1 more test
can you bump start your car? or is this one of those slush o matics.?

you dont need a start motor, or "ST" SIGNAL TO START your CAR.
just enertia and a clutch dump.

a bad clutch switch kills the starter but does not kill spark.
after all , how would you bump start the car. see ?
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