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Old 10-07-2008, 02:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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you get lots of free parts with that too. most are extremely expensive
Ive been bidding on TPS for 1 year to no avail.

there are 2 AIC's
the thermal IAC is under TB. it can packup too. (suzi calls this fast idle vavle)
it can also stick or ? it might be possible to ice water then boiling water test this device, removed.

test, drop in icewater ( or bag in and put in freezer for 1hr)
take out and make sure air flows freely thur it ( look with flashlite to see if you can see the valve workings, is it openin all up ( 16v i do not know, share this experience)
then put it in boing water.
the whole thing. then make sure that valve closes. (wax pellet action this is)

if it does all that, you are 100% good to go on the thermal iac.

the fully closed spec on the valve is 158Deg F. ( says engine speed back to normal)


btw: setting idle speed , requires, adjusting both the TB bleed and the electric IAC screw at the same time, such that the Duty cycle of IAC electric is 50%.
there is a test jumper for doing so and requres a DC voltmeter at IAC Electric.
this just puts the IAC electric in the center sweet spot, despite the fancy terms.

cheers
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgh View Post
you get lots of free parts with that too. most are extremely expensive
Ive been bidding on TPS for 1 year to no avail.

there are 2 AIC's
the thermal IAC is under TB. it can packup too. (suzi calls this fast idle vavle)
it can also stick or ? it might be possible to ice water then boiling water test this device, removed.

test, drop in icewater ( or bag in and put in freezer for 1hr)
take out and make sure air flows freely thur it ( look with flashlite to see if you can see the valve workings, is it openin all up ( 16v i do not know, share this experience)
then put it in boing water.
the whole thing. then make sure that valve closes. (wax pellet action this is)

if it does all that, you are 100% good to go on the thermal iac.

the fully closed spec on the valve is 158Deg F. ( says engine speed back to normal)


btw: setting idle speed , requires, adjusting both the TB bleed and the electric IAC screw at the same time, such that the Duty cycle of IAC electric is 50%.
there is a test jumper for doing so and requres a DC voltmeter at IAC Electric.
this just puts the IAC electric in the center sweet spot, despite the fancy terms.

cheers
jtgh, I final got the throttle body cleaned and consequently have a high idle now (approx 1500 rpm). I removed the fast idle screw to do a complete cleaning and was wondering if you could elaborate on the concurrent adjustment of the IAC & fast idle screw. Thank you
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Old 10-24-2008, 03:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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that is a good question.
i wil send you the full written doc on that.
it is tricky, the idle duty cycle adj.

and poorly writen up in fsm. more later
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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better dan dat

how to set my idle and DC

but setting idle on a busted engine, efi is for naught.

keep us posted.

this doc clears up some serious errors in the FSM that was driving me crazy.
so i share it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i got my spare TB today too.
now have all EFI parts , spare. ready for far offroad.
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