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Old 09-15-2008, 01:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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i just bought another tracker. this one is a 90 hardtop(non removable) i bought it knowing it didn't run, the people i bought it from said a mechanic thought it was fuel pump. while checking for fuel i found it has fuel at the throttle body(i pulled the line out a little and fuel sprayed out with key on.) but when you turn the key on the pump runs for just an instant, then stops and i can hear what i think is the fuel pump relay under the dash click. this happens basically instantly when the key is turned on.

it has spark out of the coil, but none out of the dizzy.

i checked the fuses, they were all good except the heater fuse was removed, when i put a fuse in there was still no power at the fuse, and blower didn't blow. not sure if this is related, or another separate issue.

i keep seeing you talk about the FI fuse, but i don't see one that is marked this, where is this located. i'm stumped, i don't know if there's no fuel because there's no spark, or what's going on. please help me!!

i pulled the ecu, and none of the capacitors appeared blown, or leaking, i know this doesn't mean they are good. but i thought i would throw that in.
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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cap or rotor are sorted.
you fuel pump only runs for 3 seconds, each key on, and no start.
cranking you can watch it inject on an 8valve Throttle body.
fix dizzy. new plugs and wires, cap and rotor. a fuel ignition tune up.
get it to start with instant start.

90 has diff , fuse box. ? i think?

blower is diff, path. than engine criticals.

the wiring on 91 to 95 , 8v are very close to identical.
90 is slight changes.

your fuel pump test port is at the fuel filter. see small 10mm screw at the banjo fitting there? that is 6mm threaded test port. (a standard test hose)

id get spark to all 4 plugs, and then try test fuel, or propane snort.
i just hit it with instant start in a can. veroooommmmm , die.

on any found car one needs to have a compression test. just to find out if it can in fact pump air. if not , it is a sicky.

cheers.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i checked the compression and came up with this.
cylinder 1-115
cylinder 2-50
cylinder 3-150
cylinder 4-145

i'm sure there's a problem here, just not sure if it's a head gasket, or something else.

should i still be troubleshooting spark, or is the lack of spark associated with the compression issue? will low compression cause loss of spark?

Last edited by midtown15 : 09-16-2008 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it wont cause no spark but that is a big issue not having compression on cyl. did you do a dry compression test then a wet compression test? if not check that and see if there is a big diff. I think that number two cyl will still be low but i would still try it. does it even try to start or just roll over? I would check your spark at every cyl. if you get spark then try spraying fuel in tbi and see if it starts. if it starts then try to keep it running and see how it runs. I would think it will run like crap but a start.
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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he has grossly bad cap/rotor/wires too. so it wont start.
there will be other problems, even tank rust and contam.
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i will try the wet compression test. the cap, rotor, and wires appear to be almost new. i know this doesn't make them good. i did notice that the plugs were VERY wet and smelled of fuel.

i'm just concerned with troubleshooting the spark issue is there's something major with this ride. thanks for all the help

i also put the jumper wire in the diag. plug and got code 12 from the cel. this is good, no other codes

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Old 09-16-2008, 11:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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when doing the plug spark test use a fresh clean plug laying on the valve cover and to spark plug #1.

the wet plugs can short the energy inside the internal insulator cone.

ive seen carbon tracked rotors so bad ( hidden too) to the inside center dizzy shaft.
all energy going down the shaft and not to the plugs.
you dizzy might have my completely mis-timed.

if the rotor is not aligned to the post in the cap, at 5DBTDC, THEN the spark just dont happen at any plug, even thought the coil made 50000 volts.

ecu is happy.
the test spark plug can be any heat range , just clean and fits.


dizzy:
crank to #1 TDC 5deg. before (left looking rear of car ) on scan of timing cover.
there are 2 TDC's on is exhaust other is compression stroke.
blow air in to spark plug hole #1 with clean hose and use mouth.
if you can blow, its not #1 , rotate 180 more.
now you cant blow.
next pull cap, rotor pointer must point to the #1 cap tower pin, exactly.
then check the timing order ,1, 3, 4,2,
How to set ignition timing
your 8valve spins CW , 1 then 3, 4, and 2. check the wires for proper placement.

get spark.

you plugs could be wet because.
1: the plugs are 100k old. and fouled.
2: dissy timed wrong, coil has park so ....
3: fuel pump regulator stuck fully closed.

looks like you have injection, and in fact you can watch it by lookiing DOWN air horn on all TBI cars.
even see the key on , pre prime squirt.

I might add, if the #2 intake is leaking badly , it will cause the MAP sensor to go quite insane, Up then down, then up then down and the ecu will go lean then rich and lean and rich. EFI hates burned intake valves ,.

you need to find the 50psi reason.
it is unlikely to get better , only worse. (that cause)

hope that helps a tad.

cheers.
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Old 09-18-2008, 11:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i ran a wet compression test, and came up with the follow numbers

#1-140
#2-50
#3-175
#4-160

what does this mean?
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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bad valve on #2 or cracked head or block on #2 or a bad head gasket.
it as solid leak, not changing.

a radiator leak down test could confirm , leakage from block coolant side to cylinder?
if the head gasket looked perfect (off), then extreme careful examination would be needed.
examine cycl itself and have head pressure tested and if its just the bad valve ,then just a valve job.
if its a head, there are good deals on exhanged heads.

on reassembly careful checking the block deck for pefect flatness with steel rule and thin .001 feeler gauges (as appropriate) is a get home done block check.
the head could be warpped, and these can be either milled or the heat treatment that relaxes them again, can do wonders.

#2 is very sick.

hope you find only a crack in the head gasket.
cheers
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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me too. thanks again. i'll let you know what i find.

just curious, if the compression had changed with the wet test, what would this have told me. rings?
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