the switch is caibrated (side screws) so that it is closed at idle and not closed off idle.
so :
bad switch.
not calibrated , or some removed it and put it back and didnt set it.
or the wiring is shorted.
I would not believe ECU bad. 1 in a million chance on that.
cheers
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91'-8v,2dr,4wd,Conv. Market#E03
My server has Engine Repair proc/data. Check it out.
ok so i am guessing its my switch thats out in that thing, i'm thinking about just making my own hard switch or tying it into the neutral switch for the idle, do you think i can put the TPS back together if i take it apart?
no , and no.
off idle:
the switch action tells the ECU to stop controling idle and to start using the TPS pot for
request of extra fuel if you step hard on the gas pedal.
put an ohm meter on the switch contacts., then rotate the throttle, if the switch open later in the rotation , then it is good and then the calibration is wrong.
ok, so i just oedered a new tps and put it in, and all is well. EXCEPT... now i have an intermittent fuel starvation/ spark problem. just everyonce in a while it will stumble, or if idling it will die. usually lasts 1-3 seconds before it comes back to life. I think its fuel pump because i bought it not working, beat on the pump with a hammer, and wa-lah it worked. but then this happened, so i put a new one in. it has died twice at idle. Might also my some odd spark problem, because when the power comes back it is very abrupt. plugs wires, cap, and rotor are good.
now would be good time to tell what car (engine and drivetrain) you are driving.
89? , 98?
each on has its own , unique tricks.
like the fuel pump ground wire always corrodes behind left rear tail light.
remove light, look and 2pm and see body ground point. clean good and grease it.
questions:
if you lose fuel pressure it fades out ( pull fuel pump relay and what it now)
if you keep a busy right foot and you CAN keep it running that means loss of air.
if it cuts out like a light switch , and you can make it cut back it just as fast it is ignition. ( id never trust any cap,rotor,or wires, id did not buy my self and have a log book on how many miles.)
one can clean up these parts and the look new on the outside and are just crap.
carbon tracking is a cruel mistress.
when it cuts out, do you loose any other electric items. (turn them all on and look)
radio,fan,dash lights, headlights, any thing.?
lets work this puppy.
cheers, jerry
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click me.
91'-8v,2dr,4wd,Conv. Market#E03
My server has Engine Repair proc/data. Check it out.
when it goes, no other lights do anything at all. it dosen't do it on bumps or on any special occasion. There has been equal times it has died moving, stopped, or wouldn't start till a few seconds of cranking. it is very gremlinish. when it cuts out and i am going fast, pumping the pedal don't help. it just cuts back on a few seconds later. every times its done this the timing is about the same... around 3 seconds. i'm always scared its not going to start back up or keep running, but so far it always does. no CEL, no codes.
new fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter, oh and new tps. all installed by me, bought new.
and of course i can never get it to do it when i want it to. like in the garage or with the hood open.
sounds like total ignition cut out.?
hard to prove it ,with out a timing light.
ok, at the stat housing and at the dizzy housing, there are ground lugs,
make em clean and tight 6ft/lbs torque, no more,( alumin spec)
i lube all grounds with silicon grease, same stuff as o-ring people use.
90' might be diff. then 91 like mine.
look for ground lugs , all over the engine bay, clean them all and retorque them.
I have even wired a timing light in to a cab and then pressed the trigger as it cut out.
or get an old neon timng light that just winks all the time when connected to a #4 spark plug, ( the kind with out power wires, or
you could tape the trigger closes then tape the gun to the wipers and drive with the silly thing flashing away)
Ive even removed a hood on a car to get the job done.
or find a large rubber body plug, to remove, mine dont have AC so I have 2 rubber body plugs.
pass wires or cables thru that to do tests.
if it restarts so easy, the light will say nothing , you must catch it, in its act.
heck it could be ECU. or the CAS sender in the dizzy base , dropping out.
ignition cut is abrupt, like being kicked in butt. real violent it is, and same coming back.
nothing like it. (key off driving to see if similar effect )
careful not to lock steering, ok? no cars. straight road, etc.
this type of failure is where a scope really pays for itself.
this one is tough.
use you imagination to find a way to prove IGN loss is the failure.
if it is , then we march off that way.
id replace the capacitor on the corner of the ECU , on all 89 to 95kicks)
next to the connector. it is the main power filter and it goes bad.
cheap part.
see my ecu page.
one very smart dude here, put in his DTC CEL jumper and then drove with it in.
flashing forever 12,12,12,12, then it went dead(the cel flashes) just as car went dead.
bad ecu, it was crashing and locking , with electrical noise , by bad main CAP.
your pn id is diff. on 90 so i cant help there, just look at the ecu and find the large cylindrical cans that will say 50uf @ 50v or 63v or 75uf. or 100 uf.
it is the largest uF in the ECU box.
uF means micro (u) Farads,
loss of spark can be cause by:
no order: (due consideration to your updates)
1: Cas bad. (or loss of power to it or ground to it)
2: bad ECU
3: bad ignitor.
4: bad coil.
bad = intermittent too.
__________________ http://carfix.stufftoread.com/
click me.
91'-8v,2dr,4wd,Conv. Market#E03
My server has Engine Repair proc/data. Check it out.
ok so i decided it is an issue with the timing. I haven't put the light on it as of yet, but a few times it has cut out and then came back, but like it was running on every other cylinder or something. it was shaking like crazy. but i think its my CAS.
code 45 fix
Linear Mode
