Save my chassis!!!

Bex · 09-03-2008, 02:57 PM

After living on this forum for weeks back in March (with a computer problem), all has been well with my Geo Tracker (1991, 1.6,). How foolish of me to be so complacent. I went to my mechanic today for my usual service, and heard words from him that struck FEAR into my heart. He told me that my chassis has begun to rust, particularly the stabilizer bar in the back. He said it's not dangerous (yet), and that there's nothing I can do to stop it. (Regrettably, I have always lived by the ocean - salt air, salt water on the roads, etc.). I am sick to my stomach that this will be the end of my car (hey, only 170,000 miles...) Anyway, I am stupid enough to believe nothing is impossible - I go on the internet and find all sorts of applications that are supposed to stop rust (in its tracks). Stuff called Chassis Saver, Por 15, and some others. With some of them, you can even pain over existing rust - the stuff forms a hard coating which prevents further oxygen contact, etc. Anyway, I know nothing about this, and wondered where I could get some trustworthy advice. Ah ha...my favorite Suzuki forum (that saved me in the past...thanks jtgh). So, after all this rambling, my question - how do you guys keep your chassis in good order? Has anyone ever used any of these kinds of applications? Presumably, as we are all driving around in 'old' cars, others have encountered this problem and have solved it? Looking for any and all advice (other than junk the car....). Thanks.

TackerPower · 09-03-2008, 09:54 PM

chassis saver, rust to primer paint (autozone), and rubberized undercoating all from autozone..... it helps a ton! it will last 10 times longer than doing nothing

jtgh · 09-03-2008, 09:54 PM

hi stranger ! sorry for your puter.

is suspect it is 1 of 3 parts

2 track rods, left and right down low.
or that pesky top of axle swing piece.

no matter, do not go to any mechanic, they are parts swappers.
(most anyway)
find a good welding shop. ,
you may have to remove the rear carpeting first.
then they will weld in new pieces of metal and fab up a new mount.
they will look and in 5 mins tell you if it is possible.

i assume there is more metal there than paint. hahahaha

course you can buy new parts or used.

see attachment for rear parts. 2 rods and 1 wish bone thingy.

cheers. jerry

veeweeguy · 09-03-2008, 10:05 PM

Eastwood company has a complete "rust converter" system. I
haven't used it personally, but a guy at work swears buy it. brush
it on, and paint right over it. Eastwood Company: Auto Tools, Body Repair, Classic Car Restoration, House of Kolor Paint, Powder Coating Hope this helps.

Bex · 09-04-2008, 07:08 AM

My mechanic hadn't been under the car in a year (more time under dash with computer). Anyway, he said he was 'surprised' to see how much the rust had taken hold in a year. The worst part is the rear stabilizer bar which has become rather crusy - you can put your hand in it at some places. Now, he said this 'wasn't tremendously important - just adds a little more support'...Hmmm...The rest just looks like the beginning of rust around the joints. So, my questions - is the stablizer bar really important? Can a new one be welded without taking the car apart? Do you guys do anything at all on your chassis to prevent stuff from getting worse? They sell stuff here for iron gates, (called Triflow) that you can paint over the rusty gate and the rust supposedly stops. I guess its kind of like that Chassis Saver or Por 15 stuff. Aside from the stabilizer bar, I just want to stop whatever rust I have from getting worse. I suppose my problem is that I often have to drive through water to get out of my house - mostly fresh water. I keep the car inside, but its always damp here.

Rhinoman · 09-04-2008, 08:30 AM

The part that usually goes is the round bar goes across and has the fuel tank bolted to it. This can be cut out and replaced by any decent welding shop.

Bex · 09-05-2008, 07:19 AM

Hey, that's exactly the bit that's going, the round bar at the back. The mechanic is calling that the stabilizer bar. Anyway, thanks for all the info. Will get a new bar welded there, and then investigate Eastwood and other links to see about treating the rest of the chassis as a preventative. Thanks again

bob c · 11-02-2008, 09:29 PM

Rhinoman

Your dilema is exactly my problem. Due to a lack of funds and a lack of a good welding shop I am going to tackle it myself. Does anyone know if the replacement must involve the entire pipe? This would involve through the chassis rails, multiple welds there and the rear shock mounts.
Our thought was to cut out the rusted center and slip on an oversized pipe welding each side. Any opinions?

Bob C
94 sidekick
Garage kept

aquanaut20 · 11-02-2008, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob c

Rhinoman
Our thought was to cut out the rusted center and slip on an oversized pipe welding each side. Any opinions?
Bob C
94 sidekick
Garage kept

If you are OK with a mig and the ends are reasonably good(rust free) cut out the cancer and replace with a new section, no cold or sloppy welds, we may come a checking. Same goes for any leaky floor plates.

sagefr0g · 11-02-2008, 10:11 PM

i have the same problem. the pipe running perpendicular to the frame just behind the rear wheels. and with the darn fuel tank hooked to it. i tryed to post some pictures of it in this link:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/143802-post18.html

good luck and please let us know how your work on it turns out.