Rear Bearing job, outer race stuck 2000 Tracker

[tundrafreak]

The rear wheel bearing imploded on my 2000 Tracker. The outer race is stuck in the axle housing. I was able to cut the the retainer & inner race off the axle shaft. The shaft looks good but the retaining plate (the one with four 12mm bolts) is definitely shot, scored, warped. My questions are:


Are there any diagrams of the axle or hub? I've done a ton of reading on the internet over the last few days. The wheel bearing blew apart so I have no idea which direction the seal should go into the axle. I read here about a .pdf, does anyone have a link to it?

Also, I'm trying to dremel/chisel carefully the outer race out of the axle but am not sure what to look for at the end of the axle housing in regards to damage. The dremel method is how I got the retainer, inner race off the shaft. Also, I plan on having a shop press the new bearing on, my concern again, is the darn axle, what do I need to look for when I go to put the shaft back in? I did some reading here and it says the end of the housing could have been cooked by the heat??

Any help is appreciated, the car is stuck over at a friend's house, I have another car, but need to get it out of there sooner than later. Funds are short too if you know what I mean, so I'm trying to do as much as I can myself. Thanks in advance.

jude

[Max]

Read through this thread and the links within first.

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ngs-seals.html

I'm trying to dremel/chisel carefully the outer race out of the axle but am not sure what to look for at the end of the axle housing in regards to damage

You need a slight press-in fit for the new bearing to hold properly. That and the bolting up process secures the outer bearing race. IF the old bearing spun and over sized the backing / retainer plate you should replace the plate. If you JUST nick / score the bearing surface removing the old bearing, and all else looks good, just remove any high spots prior to installing a new axle bearing.

The seal info (there are two) you need is in that link above.

[tundrafreak]

Originally Posted by Max

Read through this thread and the links within first.

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ngs-seals.html



You need a slight press-in fit for the new bearing to hold properly. That and the bolting up process secures the outer bearing race. IF the old bearing spun and over sized the backing / retainer plate you should replace the plate. If you JUST nick / score the bearing surface removing the old bearing, and all else looks good, just remove any high spots prior to installing a new axle bearing.

The seal info (there are two) you need is in that link above.

Bingo, thanks Max. That is just what the doctor ordered. This is really the first problem we've had with the tracker at 180k. Its not my daily driver, but we've owned it since new & its used by another in the family so I need to get fixed. My eyes were bugged eyed from searching & had read a thread about a fsm pdf so I thought I would ask. The diagram in the link works great so thank you.

Definitely buying the retainer plate.

[Max]

Good!

Shout out if you need help, and change out that gear oil too.

I used RTV blue for the sealant in the areas mentioned w/no problems BTW.

[the flying scotsman]

I'm repacking my 96 Track rear axle bearings as a PM issue now. They are open and not sealed. Just priced the cost of the (consumable) bearing retainer with the General ($22.50 garage cost, 10 days to get out of Lansing as no dealer in the US has any in the Locater) vs. Southwest Suzuki, $8.50 each. Suzuki PN# is 43485-73000. BTW, in event of major bearing failure as described, always good procedure to pull a shop towel through the axle tube a few times starting from the 3d member out to remove any metal/oil solution (which may have passed the inner seal) to protect the carrier bearings.

[Max]

Just to confirm...that is the bearing retainer (a collar really) that goes on the AXLE not the retaining PLATE that bolts to the axle end flange, no? If it IS the stamped steel flange, THAT is a bargain!
Edit: I just notice that you said a "consumable" retainer. Yep! That is the collar on the axle then. You have to destroy it to REPLACE the bearing on the axle shaft.

Bearings...They are open and not sealed

They are sealed from the differential gear oil getting in them and the grease not getting OUT on the Vitara. Same on yours?

If you are just packing the bearing (which is sealed / greased in the plate already BTW) you don't need to remove the retainer / collar and bearing from the axle.

Also, I could be wrong here, but that part # crosses to an older Samurai and Sidekick, not a Vitara / Tracker, no? Are they the same?!?

https://www.trademotion.com/partloca...&siteid=214330

Mechanical Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
4348573000 $10.72 $0.00 $8.58
Universals & rear axle - Rear axle - Rear axle - Bearing retainer
Bearing retainer, samurai, sidekick - samurai, sidekick 1989-90 1986 - 1994
Add to Cart Contact Us
4348573000 $10.72 $0.00 $8.58
Universals & rear axle - Rear axle - Rear axle - Bearing retainer
Bearing retainer, sidekick - sidkick 1991-92 1991 - 1994
Add to Cart Contact Us
4348573000 $10.72 $0.00 $8.58
Universals & rear axle - Rear axle - Bearing retainer
Bearing retainer, sidekick, x-90 - except samurai 1995 - 1998
Add to Cart Contact Us
4348573000 $10.72 $0.00 $8.58
Universals & rear axle - Rear axle - Bearing retainer
Bearing retainer, samurai - samurai 1995

[tundrafreak]

Originally Posted by Max

Good!

Shout out if you need help, and change out that gear oil too.

I used RTV blue for the sealant in the areas mentioned w/no problems BTW.

Yes RTV & change the gear oil got it! I got the outer race outta the axle housing this afternoon. It looks good. Also ordered the $35 plate/flange thing from the chevy dealer that will be in tomorrow so it looks good to go & when I pick it up will get the axle shaft back for they pressed on the bearing/retaining collar. I saw that tool you made to seat the axle seal, now gotta mcguyver up something for that.

Not sure about running a rag, I am not pulling the other side yet. Maybe I need to consider that?

Thanks again to all

[Max]

I saw that tool you made to seat the axle seal

Yeah, I ruined two new seals PRIOR to that. It's so damn DEEP in there to get lined up. The seals are cheap though, and avail at most if not all auto parts places (use the Tinkem #710522).

And not to be a PITA, but read my brake install thread. THAT install can bite ya' on the arse if not careful.