i have a 97 chevy tracker and the brakes started to lock up on me while driving down the road and kept getting worse. so once i got it to a shop i replace the pads and rotors due to the fact they were a little wore ( like an 18 year old boy had been driving it :D ) so it drove fine for the next day or so then did the exact same thing. so then i replaced the brake caliper in the front left and right.
again drove good for the next day on the way to school then on the way to work after school did the same thing. so then i took it home i replaced the rubber brake lines. when i put it back together the brakes wouldnt bleed. after hours of pumping i replaced the master cylender STILL NO BLEEDING i have pumped for hours and still no pedal.
Wow, hate to think of how much this has cost you by just randomly replacing parts
You need to stop(pardon the pun) and work out what is exactly happening. Brakes aren't something to shrug off.
Brakes locked you say? On their own? Were you applying them? Had you stopped and then they wouldn't release?
The last thing you said was 'replaced master cylinder'. You seem to have spare parts galore!! Did you bleed it before putting it in? What technique are you using to bleed the brakes?
You're bleeding and no fluid coming out? Sure you have fluid in there?
Help us help you by explaining things heaps indepth.
On my 95, there's a bleeder screw adjacent to the master cylinder which needs to be bled. Not sure in what order, but typically it's furthest to nearest. Good luck
its not that i have spare parts galore its i apperently love to waste money galore
whenever the slowly locked up i was just driving down the road. i had applied them but i hadnt been when they started to grab.
when it comed to what weve been doing to bleed them ive tried everything.
pumping the pedel hold then open bleeder, ive used hand pumps to pump fluid in then pump pedal and open bleeder, most likely ive tried every thing you can think of
i did bleed the master cylender befor i installed it. and ive actually done it more than once during this process.
its not that i have spare parts galore its i apperently love to waste money galore
whenever the slowly locked up i was just driving down the road. i had applied them but i hadnt been when they started to grab.
when it comed to what weve been doing to bleed them ive tried everything.
pumping the pedel hold then open bleeder, ive used hand pumps to pump fluid in then pump pedal and open bleeder, most likely ive tried every thing you can think of
i did bleed the master cylender befor i installed it. and ive actually done it more than once during this process.
o yea and i do have fluid in the resevior....
thank you guys for your help
I just flushed my brake system using a vacuum pump on each bleeder valve. If you have vacuum on the line and fluid in the reservoir, the fluid should make it to the wheel cylinders. I guess there could be a clog somewhere or a broken line. In my experience whenever the brakes apply themselves, it's always caused by either a broken return spring in the rear drum brakes or a sticking parking brake cable. How do your rear shoes look?
ABS?, you are wasting your time if the modulator has air in it now after removing MC which guarantees this to happpen. See ABS mod, next to MC, see it?
brakes started to lock up on me
you never said what tire is locking? surely you can test for that by driving on some wet pavement slowing , away from traffic, wet your driveway.
now find the wheel that locks, ask some one to watch.
gee,
1st> ABS?
2nd: what end of car is locking or better what wheel.
lets throw more parts.
Lets make AZone stock shoot way UP.
i remember the story. Joke:
old:
A man was looking for a quarter under a street light. Another man stopped to help him look and after looking for awhile asked the man if he was sure the he had lost it there, since they couldn't find hide nor hair of the quarter there under the street light. The first man told the second man that "No, he hadn't lost the quarter here, he had lost it down the street, but there was no street light there so he was looking under the street light 'cause it was easier to see here under the light."
the first time it locked up it was the left front then when it did it again it was the left front the third time i dont know which one it was but if i were to geuss i would say both in the front
as for you smart little remarks. im 18 years old and not the most knolledgeable mechanic however my dad has been helping me and ive only replaced the parts that he told me to.
im not just making a parts list and going down it with my eyes closed saying HERES A GOOD ONE!!!
Last edited by blacktracker09 : 08-27-2008 at 09:13 PM.
Brakes lock because the caliper is stuck, the hose is bad or the return port in the MC is blocked. The brakes drag and cause heat to build up, the fluid in the caliper expands, causes the pads to drag harder, which causes more heat, so on and so on.
Blacktracker did you bench bleed to MC? Try putting a hose in a jar with a small amount of clean fluid, open the bleeder, attach hose, pump the pedal slowly, you should see air bubbles at first then fluid should slowly fill the jar.
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sorry i just couldn't help it. in truth , guessing is probably cheaper than MIDAS or the like.
walk in , drive out $2k lighter.
the parts are about 1/5th labor or less.
Isuzuzuki man is dead right.
This is a very dangerous condition. (do not drive car)
the fluid is being blocked as you lift your foot and the expanding fluid will make it worse.
ok , this car has many parts for the brakes.
i see you have new front calipers, hoses flex, and calipers.
so that leaves that funny part called the 5way valve.#4 on drawing.
it must be bad.
or
one guy here took 6 weeks to find the used rubber grommets he used on the old MC to top tank were mangled so bad IT blocked the MC return holes.
look at the bottom the fluid reservoir flask.
look real careful at both front and rear brake sections for 2 hole each.
questions: do they lock and just stay that way?
or it is just that they are skidding because , left and right are not balanced
or the complete rear system is failing, or you have
Tons of air in the right side caliper.
Im not driving it but I could tell immediatly what is going on.
describe exactly what you mean by locking.
do you have a Vacuum bleeding tool or a power brake bleeder?
or are you using the 2 man brake bleed way.
Getting all the air out thank skill and patience.
the brakes might be fine, you just did to the last step correctly.
bleed MC per the paper that came with it.
some come with a hose kit that bleeds it to the Flask.
then connect it once mounted, one line at a time.
then pump using the 2 man rule to get as much fluid from the flask (keep it full) and then get lots of fluid out the right caliper, close it off
and bleed the same way.
then with the vacuum bleeder , bleed out the last of the air.
or if you have the power bleeder, just 1 step,
pump up power bleeder on reservoir cap , now bleed away.
keep in mind balance.
if the brakes are not working on the right side (air in lines)
then the left wheel will be doing ALL the work, 80% just on it.
20% are the rears, due to weight shift forward ,under hard braking.
100% on front, if the rears are full of air.
keep that in mind and you can see why it locks up, actully lock is the wrong word , it is skidding, not locking.
look very carefully with a power full lamp and have someone depress brakes,
you can see the piston move below that hole. this tells you it is unblocked.
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brakes wont bleed
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