Interstate driving, down hill, fluttering noise, check engine light comes on, and losing power. Pull over, smoke from engine compartment, and burnt oil smell. And won't restart - but I'm sure you knew that already.
These are the reported symptoms on the demise of the car I bought new. Had major maintenance work done in May, and it was running fine. No leaks, no overheating. We have to retrieve it from 100 miles away, since the shop that has it gave an estimate of $7-9000 to replace the engine, with no info to me as to what caused this. Their sense of humor is better than mine!
So what are the most likely possibilities, and will I be able to determine that from the codes? Maybe this is all just bad luck, but I'd like some idea of why.
Location (Country/Region- we're not asking for your address!)
(oh wait, you wrote "interstate" and not "dual-carriage motorway")
California or Federal emissions (USA)?
Doors 2/4?
Drive 2x4/4x4?
Does not start...
Did it even crank?
When cranking did it sound like a coffee grinder full of nails?
Did it leave a puddle of coolant/oil or parts on the ground?
Have you replaced the Timing Belt+Water pump in its lifetime?
$6K-7K for new engine?
To me that sounds like someone doesn't want to do
the work, so they're giving an estimate way over the typical
value of a 1995 Sidekick.
Get another mechanics estimate!
(That Auction Site (TAS) has a couple of 16v Suzuki engines
listed right now for ~$750. throw in several hundred for shipping)
(Jerry, would one of the 2004 16v Forenza engines fit? ~$900)
Okay so what would it cost to tow it home?
I'm roughly guessing several hundred $, rent a tow-bar, find a friend
with a sturdy hitch, a couple tanks of gas... a day or so out of
your life...
Would a high school or vo-tech auto mechanics class take on the
job of swapping?
or...
Rent or buy/ cherry picker (engine hoist) and engine stand?
I think you could do it for under $2000, maybe a lot less...
What's your Zuke! worth to you?
__________________
TheZuke!
1994 JX 4x4 16v 5-speed 4-door AC
Last edited by TheZuke! : 08-26-2008 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: cleaned up, add'l info
Doing e-mail from work, so relying on memory - JX, 155000 miles, manual, in Montana, Fed, 4dr, 4x4. Only made a whirring/humming noise. No "spare" parts on the ground, not sure about a puddle, it could have left a trail. 2nd new timing belt was in the work done in May. That's part of why I'd like to know WHY this happened.
Dodge/Ford dealer mechanic gave the quote, and his diagnosis was "NO compression." Said he'd never worked on one of these before. (Really?)
[quote=gggrowliegirl;137275]Interstate driving, down hill, fluttering noise, check engine light comes on, and losing power. Pull over, smoke from engine compartment, and burnt oil smell. And won't restart - but I'm sure you knew that already.
These are the reported symptoms on the demise of the car I bought new. Had major maintenance work done in May, and it was running fine. No leaks, no overheating. We have to retrieve it from 100 miles away, since the shop that has it gave an estimate of $7-9000 to replace the engine, with no info to me as to what caused this. Their sense of humor is better than mine!
So what are the most likely possibilities, and will I be able to determine that from the codes? Maybe this is all just bad luck, but I'd like some idea of why.
If the timing belt didn't break and the engine is toast, my guess would be the oil pump failed. Join AAA at the premium level. It will cost a hundred dollars but they'll tow you a hundred miles plus you'll still have the membership for the year.
dont forget to ask your Ins. co . about towing, some have it hidden in the fine print.
I have Safeco and they pay you back after tow.
great advice, id ignore ford , they never seen one , so how could they speculate?
first check oil.level, then turn crank by hand and watch cam move (thru oil fill hole my be possible) then check compression.
It might be a Head gasket , nothing else.
it the valves are good, then a short block can be had for $1500 or less( IIRC) and completely AS IS way less.
its one of the easiest 1.6L cars in world to work on .
RWD, and lots of room.
Owner's Manual indicates this needs to be towed with rear wheels on a dolly. Will I be making a bad situation worse if we use a tow bar? (My insurance does not cover it, and I already have the cheaper AAA.)
Work done in May included other new belts and hoses, and a new water pump, along with the timing belt. Shouldn't a gauge or idiot light have indicated if the water pump or oil pump failed? It never overheated. Have had head gaskets go on other vehicles, but not with the same result.
At least I feel now that there is some hope of having it repaired. Will drag it home and see how it looks.
Owner's Manual indicates this needs to be towed with rear wheels on a dolly. Will I be making a bad situation worse if we use a tow bar? (My insurance does not cover it, and I already have the cheaper AAA.)
Work done in May included other new belts and hoses, and a new water pump, along with the timing belt. Shouldn't a gauge or idiot light have indicated if the water pump or oil pump failed? It never overheated. Have had head gaskets go on other vehicles, but not with the same result.
At least I feel now that there is some hope of having it repaired. Will drag it home and see how it looks.
To be continued . . .
Thanks to all.
I towed TheZuke! with its front wheels on a rented dolly from CO to MN 9 years ago.
I removed the rear driveshaft, marking the position at each u-joint
before unbolting, so I could re-install it keeping the original balance.
i.e. a driveshaft is balanced at the factory, just as wheels are balanced
by having wheel weights put on them, a driveshaft may have small weights
tack welded onto it. I figured it was best to return the driveshaft to its
original position and not worry about throwing something else out of balance.
The Ornery Manual probably doesn't want to mess with explaining that, so
they say "dolly it!". It took just a few minutes before the tow to remove
the driveshaft and a few minutes to re-attach it.
Unfortunately, the Check Engine Light (CEL) is a legal requirement for manufacturers regarding exhaust emissions. A manufacturer is not required
to go any further in self-diagnostics (although some do log more inputs).
Your CEL probably came on late in the game, after the damage was done
and the smog sensors went outside their regular parameters and the
simple minded Electronic Control Unit (ECU) said "duhhh...something isn't right here, I better turn on da CEL!"
Still, it would be nice to put in the jumper and have it flash back any codes
through the CEL before disconnecting the battery for more than 20 seconds.
(20 seconds, the time needed to erase contents of ECU memory)
The flash codes can be as Lightning McQueen said, "Clues to the puzzle!"
You go GGGrowlieGirl!
__________________
TheZuke!
1994 JX 4x4 16v 5-speed 4-door AC
if you have autolocking front axle hubs (word Lock missing on hub) then you must use dolly.
-------------------------direct quotes ------------------------------
95 manual on screen , page 99 (glove box manual)
the most important are , manual, 4wd, and locking hubs , not auto lock hubs.
manaul hubs can be towed in mode A or C.
A method: cut and paste:
A : 4WD VEHICLES WITH MANUAL
TRANSMISSION AND MANUAL
FREE-WHEELING HUBS
1) Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position
to unlock the steering wheel.
2) Release the parking brake.
3) Shift into 2nd gear.
4) Shift the transfer lever into neutral.
5) Set the manual free-wheeling hubs to
the "FREE" position.
Stop towing the vehicle every 200 miles
(300 km). Leave the manual transmission
in 2nd gear. With the transfer lever still
in neutral, start the engine and rev it for
about one minute with the clutch engaged
to circulate oil in the transfer case.
C: method:
C : 4WD VEHICLES WITHMANUAL
FREE-WHEELING HUBS
1) Secure the rear wheels on a towing
dolly according to the instructions provided
by the dolly manufacturer.
2) Set the manual free-wheeling hubs to
the "FREE" position.
3) Turn the ignition key to the "ACC"
position to unlock the steering wheel.
4) Make sure the front wheels are facing
straight forward and secure the steering
wheel with a steering wheel clamping
device designed for towing.
CAUTION
The steering column is not strong
enough to withstand shocks transmitted
from the front wheels during towing.
Always unlock the steering wheel
before towing.
Okay, I have a towing dolly lined up from U-haul, and they say I have to load it frontwards. I've never done a thing with the hubs, so they must be the automatic ones. Pretty sure I know what a u-joint looks like, so will mark and take off rear driveshaft there, and make sure nothing is dragging. Have I got that right?
Get it home, check the oil, see if the cam turns, check compression. Oh, if only I were mechanically inclined! More questions to follow after my weekend adventure.
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95 Sidekick 16v, toast?
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