i bet , a bag of Freetos, you have an 8v engine, with TBI injection.
as 8v will always race with any air leak.
first pinch all the hoses close to the intake. the one that drops idle is bad.
do not pinch the PCVhose or the input air hose to the iAC as they do pass air normally.
but must not leak at hose of PCV .
throttle cable sticking , no i sure.
throttle plate below it will coke up causing plate to stick open,
the Dash pot on rear left of TB is not working ,
this little device as shown my web page , holds the throttle open when engine cranks and first starts, then it drops.
fact is it does it all the time if vacuum can get to it from the DP VSV valve.
there is a huge list for this on 8v.
not to mention ECU dropping the idle controls because it is sick or something else sensor wise is way off.
so backup 1 notch.
is the CEL lamp glowing at key on and no started. it must glow or ecu is dead or lamp is bad. (this is the ECU self test #1)
then when started it must go out. the CEL, if not you have codes.
pull the codes with a paper clip, no readers, not fancy scan tools, just a clip.
if you have 91 ,seriously consider putting in 1 to 3 new capacitors into ECU.
it is cheap and easy and all 91's will fail for this.
some (many)are already swapped out, if they are black and ugly and say Rubycon on the side they are Crap. get them out of there.
tell us about cel.
if lamp is working ok, then place the jumper and lets get out code 12.
no code 12 showing means ECU is in LAH lah LAND.
OBLIVION.
actually it is just rebooting constantly.
the IAC (control motor (just a coil) you can just unplug conn and it will change rpm.
if it dont , ecu or IAC are bad. or you hava a massive air leak.
keep in mind if you have a massive leak ,the IAC can not stop that, it can not reduce its flow enough to compensate so it will seem it is INOP,
its like having 2 water hoses running on diveway.
one is stuck on, the other one , I can't just stop all the water. see.
ok , tell me more.
cheers.
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