Took the Tracker (1994, auto, two door, 8 valve) to the shop today for an estimate. I was quoted $300.00 labor to put on a new timing belt if I supplied all the parts (Ouch!). I was also informed that my exhaust manifold is cracked. Sure enough there is a small crack on top near the oxygen sensor. It probably cracked recently when I changed the oxygen sensor. I had to use a breaker bar with a two foot piece of pipe to break it loose. It doesn't appear to be leaking. At least the crack is clean and I can't see anything coming out when the engine is running. It's also very quiet and doesn't seem to be causing any problems. I get a "12" when I test for codes. I have a friendly neighbor with a little stick (arc) welder. It looks like it would be easy to weld without removal. Can it be welded? Should it be welded? Would I be better off replacing it? Would an after market manifold give me better mileage than an OEM style replacement? A new one will run around $80.00. The shop I was at said they would charge $50.00 labor to put on a new one if I had all the work done at the same time and IF they could get the old one off without breaking any studs or bolts.
Do I have a problem? Should I shop around for a cheaper repair facility? (I'm in Ohio.)
If welding is OK and recommended, should I do the weld when the engine is running and the manifold is fully hot (and stable) or just run the engine until hot and then turn off the ignition while welding? I'm concerned about arc welding a running engine. Can the arc current do anything bad to the vehicle electronics?
dont know about welding that crack
but if you have an evening to spare you could change that timing belt yourself. Jerrys got an excellent how to timing belt swap
i been turning to it alot lately, now that i stumbled across it
he is very helpful on the forums here as well
if you change the belt yourself just be sure you follow directions
checkout your local library for chiltons or haynes manual if you dont own one
chiltons has much more info
i didnt used to be mechanically inclined but in favor of saving $ i learned
i also have learned to be
carpenter, roofer, drywaller, painter, appliance repair, electrician, computer tech, etc
it all started with google.com
__________________
I got more time than money & thats what brings me here
dont know about welding that crack
but if you have an evening to spare you could change that timing belt yourself. Jerrys got an excellent how to timing belt swap
i been turning to it alot lately, now that i stumbled across it
he is very helpful on the forums here as well
if you change the belt yourself just be sure you follow directions
checkout your local library for chiltons or haynes manual if you dont own one
chiltons has much more info
i didnt used to be mechanically inclined but in favor of saving $ i learned
i also have learned to be
carpenter, roofer, drywaller, painter, appliance repair, electrician, computer tech, etc
it all started with google.com
I do have the Haynes manual and the factory manual. I did download Jerry's instructions and photos on how to change a timing belt. I took these instructions with me to the repair shop. Adjusting the valves after finding TDC was simply beyond me. Jerry's instructions on removing the radiator were a little weak. I must also contend with air conditioning lines. I wasn't expecting the labor cost of replacing a timing belt to be so high. I may reconsider doing it myself. I was going to have a new tensioning pulley, new water pump and new alternator with serpentine belt installed at the same time along with a new valve cover gasket and valve adjustment. I may take the easy and cheap route and simply split the old timing belt down the middle with a utility knife and start the replacement into position and then cut off the remaining half of the original belt and fully press on the replacement. This method avoids having to adjust anything. Getting the radiator out of the way may still prove to be problematic. So far I've replaced the fuel filter, transmission filter, air filter, oil filter, radiator hoses, window regulator, rotor, rotor cap, spark plug wires, starter and oxygen sensor. I've also cleaned the EGR valve and the throttle body but changing the timing belt seemed a little too difficult. The shop estimated that all the work would take them 3 hours ($300.00). I figured it would take me at least 3 days if not 3 weeks and I may well screw something up. I AM doing my very best to learn new things and save money.
If it's cracked go ahead find someone that can arc weld.... pretty easy.... the 12mm bolts come off fine and honestly if they don't you have bigger probs. Take off the manifold.. Take off the exhaust.... clean it... grind it a little... then weld it up.... should be fine I have done it to mine already. Don't think there are many out there that don't have a crack.. I know I own 2.. and every trip I make to the scrap yard everyone of them are cracked.. .The Belt is bi far pretty easy to do.. take off the alt belt... power steering belt.... 10 mm and 12 is all your need till you get to the crank... then you know.. hold your tongue just right and those come off pretty easy.... since your working with 8 vavle... make sure the top key is lined on teh crank and the dot with the i is at the top mark.. you'll see the notch in the back cover (metal).... slide belt on.. retension. replace all parts.... tighten and start up... if you don't get it to fire right off the bat don't worry overly much.. took me 2 tries first time around with a 8.... then when I got my 16v.. well that was another prob all on it's own..
__________________
If your in the Mud.... Your doing something right!
Took the Tracker (1994, auto, two door, 8 valve) to the shop today for an estimate. I was quoted $300.00 labor to put on a new timing belt if I supplied all the parts (Ouch!). I was also informed that my exhaust manifold is cracked. Sure enough there is a small crack on top near the oxygen sensor. It probably cracked recently when I changed the oxygen sensor. I had to use a breaker bar with a two foot piece of pipe to break it loose. It doesn't appear to be leaking. At least the crack is clean and I can't see anything coming out when the engine is running. It's also very quiet and doesn't seem to be causing any problems. I get a "12" when I test for codes. I have a friendly neighbor with a little stick (arc) welder. It looks like it would be easy to weld without removal. Can it be welded? Should it be welded? Would I be better off replacing it? Would an after market manifold give me better mileage than an OEM style replacement? A new one will run around $80.00. The shop I was at said they would charge $50.00 labor to put on a new one if I had all the work done at the same time and IF they could get the old one off without breaking any studs or bolts.
Do I have a problem? Should I shop around for a cheaper repair facility? (I'm in Ohio.)
If welding is OK and recommended, should I do the weld when the engine is running and the manifold is fully hot (and stable) or just run the engine until hot and then turn off the ignition while welding? I'm concerned about arc welding a running engine. Can the arc current do anything bad to the vehicle electronics?
On my old 95 8 valve tracker the factory manifold was rusted beyond use consider switching to the calmini performance exhaust systems you should see some MPG improvment too. I purchase the entire system and yes in has a spot for the o2 sensor for a third of what the factory manifold was listed at.
Last edited by jmcquaid : 06-20-2008 at 10:13 AM.
Reason: changed
Yes, the RIGHT way is to loosen all the valve adjusters to set your tensioner, but I didn't do that when I changed my belt, and at the time, I checked with some others and some of them didn't do it either. Mines been good now for at least 8000 miles. I'm not recommending anything to you, just telling you what I did. Anybody else? Tracka96
I don't know what's up with these manifolds, but I just purchased a 3rd 16v Tracker beater and all three have cracked exhaust manifolds. Maybe we have a class action suit. LOL
Yes, the RIGHT way is to loosen all the valve adjusters to set your tensioner, but I didn't do that when I changed my belt, and at the time, I checked with some others and some of them didn't do it either. Mines been good now for at least 8000 miles. I'm not recommending anything to you, just telling you what I did. Anybody else? Tracka96
Also, since yours is an 8 valve, non-interference engine, even if you got the tension so loose that it skipped some teeth (unlikely, that belt is pretty tight even without the tensioner) it wouldn't do any damage to your engine. Tracka96
when i changed my belt the reason for being there was the water pump.
i didnt mess with anything else. changed water pump & belt only that was over 50k ago.
the issue i have today is tranny, its stuck in 4th im pulling it out tommorrow early am.
hell i never fixed a transmission before but i figure worse case scenerio, i got yard has one for $400 if i screw something up or i get a rebuilt $700 w/ 3 yr warranty we'll see what happens.
__________________
I got more time than money & thats what brings me here
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Cracked exhaust manifold
(I'm in Ohio.)
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