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Old 06-12-2008, 06:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Odd/funny electrical gremlin

Hi, Got my '90 Tracker back together and am enjoying driving it around, but have noticed something odd.

When I turn the headlights on while the driving, the "fasten your seat belt" lamp will light up and stay lit for as long as I have the lights on, even when I have my seatbelt on.
I don't remember if the switch is connected or not, but it should not matter. AFAIK the headlight circuit isn't related to the seatbelt warning one.
It will sound the buzzer (beeper?) if I leave the lights on with the keys out of the ignition, so I know it has a functional HL warning system.

I don't recall it doing this before I pulled the engine.

Anyone have an idea why its is doing this?

-James
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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don't know what causes it, but I have the same thing, infact my chimes only work when I turn the lights on.

Also, when I make sharp turns @ a high rate of speed i get a brake light, at first I thought it was due to low brake fluid, but it was full

3rd & final, but most odd, my horn only works with the car off. So I dunno.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the brake light has 4 functions.
1 hand brake on
2: fluid low
3: front and rear diff sensor says front or rear brakes are weak (not equal really)
see switch on diff valve.
4: RWAL computer is not happy. I it has same codes.


chime model is a really dump logical device.
if more than one thing is wrong, it is clueless as what to do. ( jr. engineer designed it right , ?)
best way is to fix the inputs to it and it will work. Never heard of a module going bad, not really but if it got wet?? all bets off.
bad seat switch, etc.
if you need a schematic for it , can be had. ( not inside guts of chime module)
cheers

PS . you are right they are not related, but the warning chime box surely is.

my horn relay is bad too. and is very flakey, but i tend to ignore it.

Last edited by jtgh; 06-13-2008 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 06-14-2008, 09:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I do need front brakes, they r talking too me, so that kind of makes sense, the horn is a safety issue, I really like to get that working.
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Old 06-14-2008, 11:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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yeah the horn is something i miss
both on mine & wifes trackers horn dont work.
if you have a test light or multimeter will tell you if horn is getting power
our horns have power just debating buying them online or boneyard<get some caddy horn thats way louder instead of some nash rambler horn beep beep HEHEHEHE
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the horn is one of the most simple devices.
some cars have horn relays (most)
this is the path and yes any test light or Volt meter is all you need.
the Horn relay coil has 12vdc on it all the time ( so you can honk in an emergancy)
the other side of this relay goes to the horn button in the steering wheel.
when you push the horn button this coil energizes pulling in heavy contacts for the horn. If the relay does recieve 12dc across the coil then the contacts must close inside it. next make sure 12vdc comes in and goes out these 2 contacts.
on side is power, the other side is the horn
if you get 12dc out the Horn relay main contacts , you must hear the horn.
if not the horn is bad, the wire you are touching is bad or the horn is not grounded.
one can test for 12dc at the horn with the Voltmeter.
one can check that the horn body (metal part) is not rising above ground more than
0.5vdc when the horn is engaged.
one can measure the ohms of the horn ( low like 1 ohm) , (never measure ohms with power applied). if the horn coil is open , then it is bad.
one can test the horn by jumpering it across the battery.

as you can see there are many ways to test the horn circuit.

most horns die from water going in to horn and corroding its internal buzzer contact.
most horns are really electromagnet buzzer , take one apart, you will discover this fact.
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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horn details 96 , most are same.


put meter across the horn relay coil.

press horn button
here relay click , horn fail and coil go to 12-15vdc,
if coil goes HOT ,the problem is relay out contacts or upstream to horn.

one test 1/2 of the circuit ellimated.

this is called the binary search technique, it is a real time saver.

Last edited by jtgh; 08-14-2008 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 06-14-2008, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Or just drop one of these in it!



And get you some nice fog lights while you're at it!
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Old 06-14-2008, 09:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i have one, and its gone bad 3 times, life time warrantee, so I took it in 3 times and got a new one. they hate water the thing in back of horn.
so reverse that horn and it will last.

the hooter in mine were plain steel and rusted to crap each time.

these horns are great for blasting Cell phone idots back in their lane,
catatonic kamakazies they are.
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Old 06-14-2008, 09:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sell me your geo label, huh, please.......
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