hello just trying not to confuse people this post is carrying over from another post (Bad Idel). It has 4wd, manual locking hubs, A/C and it's a two door and installed a thrush turbo muffler last fall. I,m going to try to post pics up because I do not know how to clean an ERG or a TPS. Thanks
95 tracker< 16v 5sp 4wd, 2dr Cal sys.
I found this post , just now:
Thanks for the reply i tell you about the Tracker. It's a 16v 5spd softtop and has california emissions. I found it had cali emmissions when they gave me the wrong PVC valve at autozone last year. a tune up was done in 2005 cap rotor wires plugs and (fuel filter a few months later). my mom is the origonal owner all see did was change the oil every 3000. the Tracker just came back on the road last week it's been sitting since January but the idel problem started before that. when i put it back on the road my friend gave me a cone filter so the air box is off the car theres two electrical connectors i had to unplug to take the box off but that did not effect the idel. it made the Tracker sound and feel faster. thats all i can think of right know that I've done or that has been changed. it has 176000miles on it and the check engine light has been on since 170000. the switch to turn it off does not turn the light off the light it just slightly dims it. Thanks
YOur CEL lamp is on , the SES goes off when you move that slide switch, the dimming is normal with CEL DTC set.
for gosh sakes pull the Codes.
first step is to adjust that throttle cable so it is loose and has no bearing (effect) on idle.
the ECU controls the idle on this car.
but YOU must set the idle, so that the ECU know where to HOLD IT. that is 800 RPM.
IDLE adjusts ( all others are painted wHite and do not adjust them ,bad news)
then there are only 1 adjustments to make,
is on the throttle body, there is an air bleed screw,
one adjusts the air blead screw for 800 RPM, hot.
that is it! for idle.
If EGR is sticking open , the car will drop to 300 RPM or lower and even die, ramdom TOO LOW RPM.
the ISC/IAC is below: click all the 16s and see everything. how-to-find-EFI-parts
remove the IAC (sometimes called ISC) and clean it in carb cleaner spray.
I soak mine in oil base paint thinner, kerosene or diesel oil for 12 hours then clean with carb spary. ( never use gasoline)
I would push the EGR diagpragm in , to see if you can stall the engine.
see the skeletonized frame of the EGR, see diaphragm, you can press it gently and it will move back and forth.
if it is jammed it is dirty and needs cleaning.
IS YOUR CATCON still present and not rodded out,and ok generally?
All my comments or stock OEM car, custom parts may vary.
what is a catcon? ya the IAT sensor is still attatched the the air box I,m going to get an intake tube and drill a hole in it and reinstall it know that you said something. for location does it matter. thanks
the closer the IAT can measure Incoming air temperture the better.
the ECU offsets its readings from it based on its factory stock location.
as you know the air gets warmer as it travels to the Intake valves.
this sensor (helps) fine tune the air fuel ratio.
I was asking this questions to see how far , mod's have evolved on the engine.
we get everything here from stock , to no exhaust pipes at all. dry headers barking in the wind.
Your ECU is trying hard to inform you of the error codes it has,
it has discovered gross errors ( this car,the ECU tests, are not strict).
some those errors can save a huge amount of time.
like TPS sig too low
or IAT too high
or Oxy sensor dead.
on this ECU you want to get code 12 (normal)
if it sets other codes, the ECU may drop to Limphome( failsafe) if it does that
the car will run , and run like crude.
On a CAL car, over 1994 , code 51 , is a performace killer. (power and mPG)
Failsafe is , RICH and Retarded Igntion timing, the result is low power and hugh MPG loss.
That MAF sensor, the engine designer went to a lot of trouble to make
the air flow smoothly , up to the input of the MAF sensor.
you see if you modify that input (front end) and cause turbulance or any other effects
the result can be a MAF sensor that works fine at 1 RPM and fails at 3 others.
see?
Sounds are nice,but , measure the air flow accurately is the #1 thing here.
there are resonators on that AIR tube, they too are for the same reason.
to make the air smooth and not bouncy,
The MAF is a very crude device and needs to measure all air in to the engine under all condtions.
I,ve been driving my car without the MAF and the IAT. i have not noticed a difference except when the car is ice cold and if you give it a half throttle or more it will want to die out. i need to find someone with a computer the people i know with computers and even some autoparts stores only have an odb 2 reader. i just installed the MAF sensor in and I'm going to get a tube to put theIAT on
running with out sensors, is a valid test short term.
the ECU mimics the missing sensor and will run like crud, rich.
poor mpg. but will run and some offroarders care less about that, but most people do.
when ALL sensors are working correctly and the OXYGEN sensor is good, the EFI will enter CLOSED loop , where by the mixture goes to a perfect 14.7:1 (AFR)
when that happens the car will be runing perfect and you will then net max mpg and driveability.
stores do not have an OBD1 scanner, one that fits SUZUKI Side kicks or trackers.
no one (save dealer techone scanners ) supports this car, no one !
dont read the useless sales ads, ( read the comes with manuals ,and there is the truth)
I did that on every model, of scan tool, OTC, autoxray, all.
none.
On this car, you need to test each sensor and then pray MAF is good.
I can test MAF in 5minutes and say its dead or alive but I can NOT test its calibration.
it is not even published this spec on the maf.
the shop manual says, 1 to 3v as you speed up engine. that is it on MAF.
It must be linear. RPM to MAF output.
ON any old 16v it is imporant to check fuel pressure at the rail.
then the sensors.
if all that is good car will run like a banchee
and absolutly no vacuum leaks, (all leaks, net ,lean, and bogging)
driving with missing sensors, envokes limphome mode and that is never going to give full power, it is just for limping home , so you can fix it,
it was never designed to use that for driving.
it is pointless to even state LIMPHOME , driveablity as it is a GIVEN , low power and poor gas mileage.
i just took a drive with the MAF installed and it makes more of difference than I thought. it does run better but the idel problem is the same. my throttel responce is better and i do not have it give it as much throtte. it elimited a hesitation that i did not notice until i put the MAF in. i did feel like i lossed some low end power but not much and it took away the intake sound. it also does not idel high as long as it did before. before the temp gague would have to move halfway to normal operation temp before it would lower hot idel. i really appreciate all the information your giving me, i think I'm going to start at the EGR, you mentioned before if you press the EGR in and your car stalls that means it needs to be clean. I'm having troble understand exactly what you mean by pushing it in. I,m thinking it's the EGR because it will idel the majority(60%) of the time at 800. sometimes it will be a bit above it at 1200. its hard to explain when i drive i put it into neutral before I stop, the RPM's will drop fast until the 1500 mark then it will go slower from there I'm assuming it's from the ait temp sensor not being installed. then every once in a while it will drop about 200rpm from 800 and it semes like the EGR from what you have described. Thanks
this is what my engine compartment looks as of now
Inconsistant idel
Linear Mode
