Does a JLX TD 1.9 engine really exist and where?

[Mojovic]

Hello there to all! I own a 1991 Vitara JX 1.6 carbie. I was wondering if any1 could clarify if there is also a diesel version for the vitara? I browsed youtube and think i found one in france, VITARA JLX TD 1.9 YouTube - suzuki diesel à dédé.
Has any1 actualy switched their petrol engine and installed a diesel? If yes what s compatible...
I live in Perth Australia any clues where to order the diesel engine?

CHEERS MATES

[jtgh]

you car was never designed to handle the huge torque of a diesel.

there is a video on TV , that showed someone putting in a VW diesel.

id go for EFI on that 91, but that is lots of work too.
get a 92-95 EFI engine and harness and put it in.
or sell it and just buy one, far easier and no bruised knuckles.

anythings possible , but time and money are important.

[skelly9134]

i have a 1996 vitara fitted with a 1.9 diesel engine. the engine is the same thats fitted to the peugeot 405 and 306. its a good solid bullet proof lump but if your looking to change the engine because of the fuel consumption i wouldnt really bother, my partner has the same year as mine but hers is the 2.0 v6 petrol and hers is better on fuel then mine.

[Mojovic]

That makes sense, so in france there is in fact a diesel vitara right? Or is this just a random customization? In australia we do not get any diesel versions except the grand vitara which is irrelevant to the topic

[Mojovic]

Cheers mate, i m looking at going diesel because it can be waterproofed. I m not sure but am positive that in a few european countries the vitara was made with a diesel option, according to a few fellows in this forum the same diesel engine from the peugeot 405 and 306. Have you heard of this before? This lead me to wonder if they may infact be able to handle the torque of a diesel??? Do you think those models have other manufacturing mods, on eye apperance they look exactly the same as yours on profile pic.
Have a look on youtube type: suzuki diesel à dédé

[captchee]

going to the throttle body isnt that hard . In fact it’s a pretty simple bolt on application . using WY parts its going to run you about 200-300 bucks . You can build it all yourself .
The neat thing is you can build it out of the car . Test it to make sure it works . Then put it on your car . Start it up and run the codes and fine tuning it

You don’t need a in the tank pump but you will need an electric pump that’s stronger then your carb pump . It has to put out 12-15 PSI .
If you don’t have one now you will need to plumb in a return line to your tank .
Most later tanks already have a fitting for this . If not you can plumb it into the return on the overflow
But past that. ANY carbed engine can be injected with a TBI .
In fact if you go with a ?? I believe 95 or later GM ECM you can also get into doing your own tuning right from your lap top , even burn and replace chips , the sky is the limit really .
I know a lot of folks who are putting GM tbi’s even on there 1960- -70’s IH 4X4 to include the little 4 bangers and getting them to pass emissions tests without all the smog garbage .
Basically the only senders you need is, Oil pressure, Temp , Co2 , and mapp and a TBI for your engine displacement or one from a donor engine that’s close to the correct displacement . If you want to go real deep you can also go with the knock sensor and speed and timing sensor . However they are not needed if you have a stick.
What will you gain ?
Well mileage for one as the computer will adjust for air density and keep the fuel mix a lot closer then a carb ever can .
If your in to 4X4ing you also will not have to worry about getting at an angle where the fuel bowl will run dry .
Also cold starting will greatly improve .
With later programmable ECMs you can also learn about fuel curves . So if you do a lot of highway driving you can program the ecm to give the best fuel economy at a given RPM range which you cant do with a carb .


now Direct port injections different , that takes a lot more work , but TBI isn’t all that hard

[jtgh]

chapchee , is right on,
you can gain 20 or more percent with EFI setup.
coarse that depends on the mass of right foot.

you planning on fording streams or something, "water tightness?" .
The 16v can be made pretty water tight, just seel dizzy and then RTV the spark boots.
and buy HD wires , largest diameter you can get. Silicon.

the dizzy has a gasket and you could seal it with RTV and the vent , plug it.
then RTV all the Dizzy cap boots.

Ive seen it done. I is a pain , but can be made to work ,
then there is that silly fan thing,

[Mojovic]

Interesting feedback, never knew it was possible to waterproof a petrol engine! I think a snorkle is a must as well. I always thought the fan can be switched of when crossing water? Have you forded serious streams with yours? Do you have a snorkle?

Originally Posted by jtgh

chapchee , is right on,
you can gain 20 or more percent with EFI setup.
coarse that depends on the mass of right foot.

you planning on fording streams or something, "water tightness?" .
The 16v can be made pretty water tight, just seel dizzy and then RTV the spark boots.
and buy HD wires , largest diameter you can get. Silicon.

the dizzy has a gasket and you could seal it with RTV and the vent , plug it.
then RTV all the Dizzy cap boots.

Ive seen it done. I is a pain , but can be made to work ,
then there is that silly fan thing,

[captchee]

snorks are a must for deep water . you have to get pretty deep to get up over the intake but if thats what you might be doing get a good snore that goes up along the windshield not one that goes out the finder and stops . Also don’t forget the tail pipe .
As to the fan issue .
If you have replace the stock fan or your stock fan is an electric then you need to be able to switch it off . If your fan is a centrifugal clutch fan then there isn’t a lot of worry . Simply move into the water slowly “ goin in to fast will blow the fan apart “ . The resistance of the water will slow and stop the fan

It also is a good idea to electronics waterproofing . On everything that has current or produces current .
The best sprays for this can believe it or not , Not be found in the automotive industry .
Look at what the Radio controlled folks are doing with their models . These have much finer electronics then anything found on your vehicle.
Corrosion X is also a very good product for this . Also don’t forget your ECM .

Anyway , back to the subject at hand .
Now this may be off topic as an example but
Here is a photo of my engine in my 1970 IH scout 800 which fuel injected with a TBI .
Now , I will admit that I was a hard core carb man . Electronics frankly scared me for many reasons . However when I started studying ,as to the facts of the mater , my fears were mostly unfounded or in correct .
This engine was original carbed with a 4 barrel and from a Chevy Astro mini van .
She was balance and blueprinted , heads shaved , pistons are high compression forged and .060 over . Red line cam with roller rockers . Oil system is powered by a high flow pump which puts out 50lbs at 1000 rpm
Fan has been replaced with an electric , radiator was rebuilt with an aluminum core .
The engine is capable of 305 horse . Not a lot in compression to bigger engines but for a 4.3 its a lot . I mated this all to the original IH 4 speed trany

The point of all this is I was concerned IF a 2 barrel TBI would provide the capability in place of the Elderbrock 4 barrel . My worries were unfounded .
While I am still learning these systems , to say im impressed with the tuning ability of the ECM is an understatement .

Now there are aftermarket setups available but they run in the 1200 and up range .
So I did some digging to find out just how hard it would be to build my own system from parts basically starting from 0 . With an engine that had never had fuel injection .

What I found was that there are many locations that will lead you through the build , using WY , ECM’s . even wiring diagrams to show you what wires are actually needed and what ones are not .
They also lead you through setting everything up and tuning the system .
Start to finish I was able to build this system you see here in my off time , over one week . Swap it into my rig and have it running the following weekend .
Now with 16 engine , these came with a TBI so the hard part is already done for you as the injectors are readily available for you displacement. So all you would need is the TBI from such an engine . Then basically either get the engine harness from that vehicle.
OR update the harness and ECM from a newer one so as to have more capabilities concerning the ECM . Updating provides more programming ability and after market chips or as I said before , the ability to do your own programming .

Also by doing this you can decide if you want a fully functional setup or just the basic needed sensors. As you can tell from my photo I went with the basic needed sensors . As such the engine harness was reduced by near 60% concerning wiring
The engine runs fine , starts one the first crank every time even in cold weather . My MPG went up by near 10 MPG . I also have much better throttle response and power .

in this photo i had not yet finished routing the wiring so there are some wires along the fire wall that have since been routed through the main harness which is the one in the blue casings

[jtgh]

nice convert, CAP.

im doing the same at my other digs.

converting old cars to EFI.
only hard part is , manifold conv. and tank modes for Fuel pump.

I enjoy this work, busy finger are happy.

thanks for photo of old scout, with new life.

Me too, old carb guy .