there are 2 ECT one is called ECT just for Computer, the other is just for dash gauge calld a Sender. the sender has 1 wire and the ECT has 2.
first find out if the engine heats up to full operation temperture , 180-200 Deg. F.
there are a number of way to do that ,
the quickest is to point an IR gun to the stat housing.
the other is to put an old fashioned thermomenter in to the RAD filler neck (cold) and then run engine unit the temperature stablizes and then take the reading.
some fluid might dripple out Rad neck but that's normal.
the shade tree way is to get engine hot, and then pop hood and feel the upper rad hose
if it too hot to keep hand on hose, its OK. (crude but effective)
if stat is stuck opon, missing or some XXXX PO put in a 160, the car will never run right.
after fixing all air leaks in the induction , there is an idle setting procedure.
but you could just fiddle the idle on the air horn.
idle is the most hard to set because so many things can mess it up.
16 things >>>click>>>
racings
check out frame #5 here>>>
fresh-air
this last link is a worst case , procedure, so dont do them all,
most are factory set and should never need touching.
Just the bleed, the fast idle dashpot and the IAC adj.screw.
that is the adjust idle , air screw bleed, has a rubber plug , pull it.
if your ignition timing is off , the idle will be off and adjusting it will be a waste time.
good idle needs: (short list)
1: hot engine with good compression
2: cam belt not slipped
3: igniton set to 8 deg BTDC ( place the freeze jumper per my page)
4: No air leaks.
5: Proper Air Fuel Ratio AFR.
(eg. CEL lamp out, you hear RPM drop at cold to hot transition , OXY swings around .45v center point, and ECU not stuck in Limphome mode , which kills idle function)
Idle the last thing to set , jointly with IGN timing. ( they interact)
after a full tune up.