runs great then dies :(

[sosbmx]

Hey everyone I bought a 1989 sidekick 1.6 FI It runs fair but in the middle of driving it will just sputter and die and then it will run great afterwards. Also if i'm running my heater or lights it will idle very iratically and try to die. I've changed the plugs and wires cause it was do, but other than that not much. Then to top it all off it won't turn over now. I'm getting good battery power and I don't hear the starter even clicking. I don't know if these three problems are related but i'm lost.

[jtgh]

a serious electrical problem
no crank.
nostart

my guess, bad battery cables terms corroded.
or corrosion under right fender fuse box,

see pm ,box

[sosbmx]

Okay, so I found out that the no start problem was the cylanoid. But The dying problem still sucks. When it dies I have to put the pedal to the floor until it starts then it slowly climbs up to where it should be and it blows a little smoke.

[jtgh]

great , come back, 89 1.6L 8 valve TBI. Bad starter replaced. good.
1 down more to go. Outside air temp or location would be helpful. I can google any temp in the world.

you are starting car and it runs rich as a pig,
WOT , pedel to metal , activates UNFLOOD mode in ECU and car starts. WOT= wide open throttle.
sounds like it choking then belchs black smoke and stinks of raw gas. right?

not sure what you are saying about heater and such. more later.

Two possibles.
1: tune up: Cap and rotor, not mentioned and are critcial to ops and short lived.
since its running rich a fresh air cleaner might help? new fuel filter wont help this but will save your pump from early death.

2: bad ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) by now all 89 ECT will be bad. Mileage not stated.
grab an ohm meter and measure the 2 pins hot and cold.

3000 OHMS or hiigher if colder.
300 warm.

left side of chart is times 1000 ohms. so .3 = 300 see? FSM chart.

ECT CHART >>> http://carfix.stufftoread.com/wts-curve.GIF

you car is old (sorry) it will have more than one problem. they all do at that age.
the IAC on our engine , controls idle , and the when you throw on loads, like
A/C or heater and lights, idle drops. [ but should not]
there are three things that cause that but first lets get it running right.
IDLE is last, always. ( in fact ECU will drop idle control when things get to much for its brain)

ECT is number 1 flooding device to check.

your next question will be where is it ,the ECT.
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/TBI-1w.jpg

bottom center , marked WTS , water temp,sensor, old SAE name. now ECT.
leave the 1 pin water sender alone that is the guage.


1 question. does engine warm all the way up , to full 190 degree temp?
top rad hose must get too hot to touch, right?

I ask that as, the ECU will never mix fuel correctly until the Thermostat is correct.
correct for your engine ! and not stuck open.
Best is to IR gun the STAT housing, 180-200d F.

Last question:
is your CEL lamp glowing , at key on , and not started.
and if yes, to above line, then does the CEL go Out once started.?

CEL , check engine lamp. ( ecu can actually help do the diagnosis,, cool huh ?)