Broken timing belt 95 tracker

[jmcquaid]

My tracker failed to start and I had it towed home. I thought it was going to be an electrical issue because I had no spark at the coil. After closer inspection I found the timing belt is broken, the previous owner claimed to have replaced it last summer as part of a complete engine overhaul. It ran so well and had such good compression I choose to believe this.

I heard no metal to metal contact; the car was running fine I turned it off and then just would not start. What are the chances that there are no bent valves or piston damage? The engine is a 16 valve 140,000 miles 5 speed 4x4.

Is there any chance of replacing the belt without a full tear down and inspection? Time is an issue for me, are there any reliable sources for remanufactured engines? My last overhaul was a C3 vet so I am not yet comfortable with aluminum engines.

I will continue to read through the posts and information linked to this site, we had a rough winter in Ohio this year and I really enjoyed how well it handled the snow and ice.
Thanks
John

[jtgh]

some (not many) claim if belt snapped at idle , theirs didnt crash.
piston to valve. but.... I dont know about that.

possibles:
it didnt snap and the timing is off too much saving engine , happens , a blessing.
PO didnt replace idler bearing with belt. dumb that is.
Id not even crank it. Id pull the cover front and look at it carefully and then
if belt is intact ,spin crank with 17mm wrench on crank big nut. CW.
clock wise.
set crank to TDC mark, check cam postion, wrong.? then do it again with quality parts.
id buy a Gates belt kit with idler.


aluminum, get an inch lbs torque wrench and follow the troque specs on all bolts going into anything aluminum . ( i worked motorcycles for years, and they are very unforgiving to gorrillas)

12 foot lbs is 144 inch lbs.
any time they call out low foot lbs , laugh convert it to inch pounds then torque it.
12 inch lbs in 1 foot lbs. easy huh?

EG; 5 foot lbs. becomes 60 inch lbs, and is much easier to set .

I use a beam torsion inch/lb wrench because I want for sure of feed back, no clicks on aluminum as it can make you very sad when it strips before the click. oops.
dang I had click dial wrong. see?


PS: do not buy a cheap $7 china belt, dont do it. Just say No as Nancy used to say.

[jmcquaid]

The belt is nearly parted only a few threads remain...none of the valve or distributer parts are moving. I will need to move both crack and cam with a wrench.

I will remove all the clutter to get access and order the belt kit. I have not tried to move the cam gear yet to line everything back up. I really hope there has been no contact between the piston and valves.

I noticed your web site has very clear pictures showing the line up of an 8 valve I don't suppose you have a 16 valve diagram??
thanks for all

[jtgh]

good job !
you have a surprise in your PM mail, look.

[jmcquaid]

Everything I have read states not to move the cam gear independently of the crank. My belt is broken. I will need to reposition to put on another belt or should I assume that out of alignment means definate mechninical damage. Can the lash settings compensate enought to move by hand?
Thanks for the info!

[jtgh]

when they say movement they mean radical movement.
i think the cam must be 90 degrees of perfect or damage starts.
but forget that.
the cam turns 1 time per crank 2.
but dont worry you wont hurt valves if all are loose as goose.

loosen lifters so cam doesnt keep snapping back on you. , this also closes all the valves perminantely. (good and loose lifter , yes)

sure , valves can be keeped closed. (and save at home)

now put crank to dtc (only one there is pointer is up)
now put cam at special position.
then put on new idler.
then put on belt so (looking at engine) right side of belt is tight.
it says all that I think there in the manual i gave.
that will do it.
cheers.

[jmcquaid]

thanks your instructions makes sense..

[jmcquaid]

I decided to take the head off and inspect since we turned it over several times after the belt broke and I commute 90 miles a day. I see no signs that the valves made contact with the piston after the belt broke. How difficult are the valves to remove from the head and is it worth the trouble to check?

The PO said he had the motor rebuilt last fall, I can see the head was serviced but not the lower end and there is a noticeable wear line at the top of the cylinder. The cylinders look very clean no scratches or scoring the block is at 140K what is the typical life of a tracker lower end?

The shop manual has a rebuild and inspection procedure for the cylinder head I just wondered if anyone has done a do it your self valve job on a 16V head? If not, with no burnt valves what should a pro charge?

Thanks all


PS is it possible to make a intake that is a bigger PITA to remove???

[jtgh]

it is a PITA.
gee,since its off ( compression test on would test the valves or leak down)
but off , take it to machine shop an ask them to check if you have bent valves.

but just looking at the carbon on the pistion tops will tell if they kissed.
it will be chipped off to bare bright metal (aluminum).
and the "margin" on the valves, this is the outside parimeter of valve for signs of contact.

it not your good.

but there is only 2 ways to tell , on car compression or Machineshop tests.

many machine shops do a special test ofter doing a rebuild.
then check each valve to see if it can hold pressure.

others just tip head so intake ports are up .
then pour paint thinner (kerosene) into port to see if valve leaks to combustion chamber
then invert and do exhausts. ask them how they do it.
this validates their work.

hope this helps you.

i see you are serious , want the truth on a DD.

cheers.

[jmcquaid]

Thanks again what did you mean in th last line? what does DD stand for?

"i see you are serious , want the truth on a DD."

if DD is referring to the life of a 1.6 block yes, my son in law is driving my other tracker and it has nearly 200,000 miles on the engine I had the head rebuilt at 110,000. I am impressed by these little engines but if a full rebuild can wait what I am short on right now is time. But it would be so easy to pull out and drop into the parts washer.

Is it worth the trouble to clean the carbon deposits from the piston tops?