Broken timing belt 95 tracker

[ranger88den]

Daily Driver

[jtgh]

DD , daily driver , not an off road toy.

If compression is good , drive the heck out of it, never rebuild and engine unless.
it smokes (and valve seals dont fix it)
or it has way low compression.

these engine are famous for going a 300,000 USA miles. even more with constant
fresh oil and new Tbelts.

yes, if head is off, ID put new valve seals in , at the minimum.
they are cheap, you can rent a valve compression tool for very small price at any auto store in USA.
It is quite easy to pop out each valve one at a time and check if for a flat stem.
just uses a metal straight edge ruler layed against it.

seals hardend with age and leak, and burn oil.

if valves are not bent, 100k is nothing on valve faces. so just new seals.

cheers.

[jmcquaid]

If you do not have the spanner wrench specified by the service manual what is another technique to torque the gear properly?

BTW the machine shop checked out the head with a vacuum check. They cleaned and checked a few valves that were not perfectly sealed. Spent most of the day replacing hoses and reinstalling the head and cam.

Thanks for all the assistance, I am reading through the lash procedure sent to my PM and it seems fairly complete.
John

[jtgh]

crank or cam gear
technique to torque the gear properly?

[jmcquaid]

I have installed the timing gears and belt using the E dwell pin and E timing mark on the cam and key on the crank. As I am setting the lash and watching the valves operate it appears to be 180 out and my compression stoke is also happening at the 180 out. My first valve to move on number one with everything lined up IAW the shop manual is an intake. The GM service manual on page 6A2-17 & 6A2-25 shows the line up. I really hate to remove the timing belt to recheck the cam so any thoughts would be appreciated.

[jmcquaid]

In rereading the procedure for the timing belt JTGH sent me there are notes concerning #4 cylinder being TDC during the process. This means the mechanical timing is set using #4 and the electrical timing is set using #1. I can't find any where in the shop manual where this is actually said by it certainly appears to be implied. Correction or confirmation would be appreciated, I don't want to damage the engine when I am so close to having it back on the road.

[jtgh]

here is figure 8, mangled in my pdf

yes, you are correct. the FSM does not ever mention where in the cycle the
cam is at,during the procedure , nice ,huh? Just Align E mark to top.

the ARRC data base has that comment, as below:

"NOTE: In this position, the No. 4 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression
stroke."


nice insert to make.


it is my opinion that #4 puts the least strain on the belt and makes setting
that tensionor , more accurate. (mine is a very weak spring)

there is a comment too in that same section on the maximum allowed error in the cam. see figure 10. in pdf. 90 degress it says.
With valves completely relaxed there is no danger during hand cranking.

i agree with all you say.
cheers.

[jmcquaid]

your instructions in this case were better than the sevice manual
thanks!!

[jtgh]

Crank #1 or 4 = firing or exhaust TDC (block cant tell)
cam #4 firing
see your pm mail

the crank must be torqued to 94ft/lbs ,per TSB 4-23
all sidekicks and x90s 89-96 year, ( factory changed in 96 ) All FSMs during that year range is wrong , including Haynes and Chiltons low-end manuals.

this stops damper pulleys from falling off, per suzuki.

[jmcquaid]

The timing belt seems to want to work its way off the cam and crank pulley after turning the engine over by hand (just about a 1/8”), is this normal?

so far I have installed a new belt and idler wheel, Cam and crank gear are torqued to 96 ftlbs. The problem causing all of this work was the belt working its way off the pulleys until it cut through the front cover.

The belt purchased locally has no directional arrows and both sides of the belt were cut straight no bevel..... I guess I will finish and start the engine and just watch the belt to see if it works its way off as before. I am willing to replace the gears if necessary but I don't see any tapering or damage on either. Would a stronger spring on the tension lever make a difference, or is this minor floating typical?