I'm guessing you know about the special wheel nut tool, and setting the proper torque when reinstalling. Apparently this torque is pretty critical, and if improperly done, can lead to bearing failure in as little as a few thousand miles from what I've read? In case you don't have it, here's JTGH's page on wheel bearings. hubsbearings
Please give us feedback after you do it. I have a 91 also, so likely will have to do them someday. I appreciated your post on fuel pump replacing.
Regards, Ken. BTW have you had to do anything with your ECM yet?

 

No ECM problems yet. The previous owner purchased another ECM thinking that was the problem, so now I have a spare. I also have a spare throttle body assembly from him.

For the bearing nut, I'm aware of the socket I need, and I'm aware of need to pay attention to the torque. Thanks for the reminder. I'll post notes of my experience with this and some pics. I plan on replacing the bearings this Sunday or Monday.

 

Here's a pictorial of the wheel bearing replacement. First I'd like to make sure everyone knows that JTGH has a fantastic page of information about this work. I used his site and the FSM as my references when I performed this job.

Since I am limited to 12 pictures, this is split into 2 consecutive posts.

Assuming you know the basics, I'll just touch on the items I thought you all would find interesting.

Step 1, remove the wheel, allowing access to the hub assembly.

Step 2, Remove the locking hub, then remove the screws holding the retaing ring in place.

Step 3, Remove the lock ring.

Step 4 Use special spanner to remove bearing retaining nut.

Step 5, Bearing nut removed. The rust is a sign that the seals were bad for some time.

Step 6, Here you can see the rust. This will all get cleaned before reassembly.

Step 7, Position tool under inner seal,

Step 8, Twist tool, inner seal will lift out.

Step 9, Remove outer seal using a similar method.

Step 10, Remove bearing retaining snap ring.

Step 11, Use correct size arbor and press out old bearing assembly from hub.

Step 12, After all parts have been cleaned, position new bearing assembly in hub.

 

Step 13, Press bearing in until it seats on shoulder in hub. I used the old bearing race as my installation tool.

Step 14, Install snap ring.

Step 15, Inspect snap ring, making sure it is fully seated in the groove.

Step 16, Position inner seal,

Step 17, Press inner seal into position.

Step 18, Position outer seal, (no picture here)

Step 19, Press outer seal into position.

Step 20, Install hub assembly onto spindle.

Step 21, Install washer,

Step 22, Install retaining nut,

Step 23, Using special spanner, torque bearing nut.

Step 24, Align lock ring,

Step 25, Fit screws and secure lock ring to retaining nut.

Reinstall hub and wheel.

I coated the internal parts with waterproof grease, hoping this whill help prevent future rust problems. Hope this helps anyone considering this task.

 

Where did you get the new bearings and tool, and how much were they?

 

Excellent photo-tutorial!!!

 

that is very professional, wow, clear.
#1 hall of fame !!!

 

Thanks for the compliments you all!

The tool cost me about $98.00 delivered to my door. I was hesitant to spend the money, but I made the job sooo much easier. Besides, it's always easier with the correct tools.

I would recommend purchasing or making the correct tool.

I can't remember where I got the tool, I think was something like "etool".

Just google "Geo Tracker spanner" and you'll come up with a bunch of references for the tool.

 

its expensive but 1/3 the labor, so in the end you win.
next time you use it it will be $49 tool.

got mine from e-tool tool.

btw bearings and seal were way more....