Front Crankshaft Seal?

[blackbird]

Based on reading through several post I believe I need to replace the front crankshaft seal. I have a couple questions before I dive into this problem..

What are some of the indications that this needs to be replaced?

And honestly how difficult is this project.

This is what is going on, I have an oil leak at the front end of the motor dead center. It appears to be coming from under the front timing cover at the oil pan. I have replaced the oil pan, so that can't be the problem.

I have an 87 Samurai.

Thanks in advance.

[jtgh]

remove tbelt cover
clean the area, perfectly.
then drive 10 miles and look with a power ful lamp.
bingo, bad oil seal.

be happy it is not a front wheel car, this ones a piece of cake.

basically.
My way:
pull rad.
pull tbelt cover
remove 8mm bolts of crank pully
remove tbelt.
pull crank pulley by removing 17mm center bolt. (not pressed on so comes off easy)
pry out seal not scraping any metal surfaces.

rev. proc.
alternately , put in new cam seal ,new tbelt , new idler, new water pump. ( this makes it 100k major service quality ,pro grade)
if really high mileage or over 100k , put in new fan belt , if over
10 years , all new hoses.

time in miles , judge that and kill the dead on road syndrom.

PS: TSB says NEW torque on main crank bolt is:
94ft /lbs.
New value. lock flywheel.

[blackbird]

Originally Posted by jtgh

remove tbelt cover
clean the area, perfectly.
then drive 10 miles and look with a power ful lamp.
bingo, bad oil seal.

be happy it is not a front wheel car, this ones a piece of cake.

basically.
My way:
pull rad.
pull tbelt cover
remove 8mm bolts of crank pully
remove tbelt.
pull crank pulley by removing 17mm center bolt. (not pressed on so comes off easy)
pry out seal not scraping any metal surfaces.

rev. proc.
alternately , put in new cam seal ,new tbelt , new idler, new water pump. ( this makes it 100k major service quality ,pro grade)
if really high mileage or over 100k , put in new fan belt , if over
10 years , all new hoses.

time in miles , judge that and kill the dead on road syndrom.

PS: TSB says NEW torque on main crank bolt is:
94ft /lbs.
New value. lock flywheel.

Based on what is going on, I would just need to start it up and let it run 2 - 3 minutes before oil is coming out.. It does come out at a pretty good pace right now.

[deardsy]

Mate, don't start your car if you can actually see the oil running out of the engine, period. Baaaaad juju.
jtgh is right, oil seal. Replace this asap.
Set your engine at No. 1 cyl compression first, then follow jtgh's previous instructions. Mark everything as you remove it so you know where it sat BEFORE you took it off the motor. If you do this, it's a piece of cake.

[the flying scotsman]

Use crankshaft pulley bolt/suitable washer behind old seal placed in reverse to push seal in. Place small amount of oil on crankshaft snout seal area prior to doing so. Tilt seal slightly, pushing in by hand initially to start it. Tilting slightly "walks" lip of seal around crankshaft seal surface so as to not nick seal. Unless grease is from a gun or newly opened can and index finger is v. clean, I'd not recommend grease as grit is hard to avoid.

[jtgh]

some manauls even ask to put ring of grease on the inner lip of seal, so it can not start dry. and scotsman is right about how easy it is to hurt a seal. too easy.

just lost power,,, bye......... on ups

[blackbird]

I have confirmed that it is the crankshaft seal, well it appears that way. I have removed the timing belt cover and can see oil coming from behind the crankshaft bolt.

Any tips on removing the Crankshaft Bolt?

[jtgh]

two ways ( auto or manual? makes a big diff)

lock fly wheel with locking device ,auto , never use the parking pawl in tranny to your unhappiness later.

5sp, go to 4 tor 5th gear ( makes turning crank very difficult and you cant hurt manuals)
chock the wheels good.

1: soak it in penatrating oil over night and hit it CCW with 1/2 drive breaker bar and 17mm socket
2: hit it CCW (marked R on gun) with the impact gun (rad. out) ( not easy on autos)

#2 is last resort, i always tickle it with a feather before I slam it with a hammer.

if it dont come off easy forget it and just remove the pulley.
this is a kick forum page and not a Samurai , rare here, like old VW's very rare.

the sammi is the same , it has a ring of 8mm bolts that you take off and off comes the pully.

do that , and now you can get more penetrating oil on the back side of that cog.
suz pn for seal:
09283-32026 , size 32x47x6


CCW = counter clock wise, some ask. Left hand threads are common here and other places too. Have seen left hand axle nuts, in my day. 55 chev? I forget.


food for thought. the bottom of the tranny bell housing has an inspection cover.
some times we can lock a flywheel via this opening. takes creativity.
ponder handmade tools. I have one for tranny out and tranny in.
the tranny out tool ,locks the fly wheel so i can take fly wheel off, engine in car.

[jtgh]

$6.75

where, suzi ,where else.


https://www.trademotion.com/partloca...28&catalogid=1


rock:
1987 SUZUKI SAMURAI Camshaft Seal
very expensive those kwik sleeve or redisleeve are, wonder why?