My daughter bought a Geo Tracker, all of the sudden it won't start. The battery is charged, everything comes on when you turn on the key, but it will not turn over, no click like a dead battery makes, it does nothing. When you turn off the key, a chime goes off, like the car has some type of alarm system, 3 dings repeated twice. The car has no alarm that I know of, but I am wondering if it might have some sort of ignition disabling system that needs to be reset? I have disconnected the battery and reconnected it, nothing. Any help would be great, have no owners manual. It is 1997 Geo Tracker, 4 door.
Try to obtain a wiring diag, google "Automotive Hobbyists". You can get a schematic from the for very low cost. Someone may have added an aftermarket security system, that will help you locate it and then you can remove it.
Good luck.
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The starter solenoid has 3 terminals. The smallest one is a push-on terminal and does corrode over time. No contact = no start. Clean and tighten the terminal. If still no start carefully jumper across the 2 large terminals with a scredriver or something (big sparks) and see if the starter motor works. Not the easiest thing to get at but it can be done.
I presume you are saying "engine wont CRANK"
chimes can be seat belts not closed, or key in ignition with door open.
I dont know the count or pitch versus fail mode.
all the posts above are great and on target.
the start wire , begins as the ignition switch, goes to the clutch or park switch (you didnt say tranny type>?) then to the starter solenoid lug.
this path is broken, or your alarm (immobilizer) is haywire.
the best tactic is to hot wire the starter.
you can follow the instructions at autozone.com or Diagnose Engine No Start or Run
If it is not an alarm/kill switch problem . . . Make sure you are pushing the clutch all the way in. My wife had this problem once. She was not pushing the clutch all the way past the safety switch limit.
My 96 had a problem where the clutch pedal weld failed. Even though the clutch was fully depressed, it would not trigger the switch. Had to pull the seat, pull the pedal, weld it right [The original weld must have been done on a Friday or Monday. Crappy job.] then re-install. Big, uncomfortable Pain in the butt job! But now it works fine.
My 94 Sidekick had a sticky solenoid problem. Not knowing that, I replaced the starter and solenoid. Found out later that you can carefully clean the solenoid contacts, then re-install. To test this, have her turn the key off, on, off, on, while you gently tap on the solenoid with a yardstick. Don't hit it hard. It won't help and can only damage the solenoid. If it's a sticky solenoid it will engage on one of your taps. Good luck.
given the battery is charged to 12.65 vdc (room temp, derate for colder)
that solenoid is very strong, you can smack it with any rubber mallet.
not egg shell, it is 1/2 think steel iron core device.
for 50 years they sell the solenoid seperately many cars today no.
mostly due to labor costs ( just slam in a new one mentality)
i posted a full test link above, is it readable? shows how to hot wire solenoid too.
there are many ways to fix this,
some diagnose it, others guess and go broke.
$500 later , they find this tiny bit of corrosion on this connector under a console.
this problem can be trouble shot bY;
hot wiring method
or using a voltmeter
everyones confort level varies. by method.
the vm way is the safest way for car and person.
for me, I dont want to waste time. ( I use both methods)
so I hot wire the Soldnoid, if that works then I dont need to replace the starter.
5 minutes and bingo a hard answer.
1/3 done: (breathing hard....)
next I go to the clutch switch, I then jumper it.
if the car starts, then I either drive like that forever or I replace the switch, the bracket or what ever it takes to get the plunger in the switch to stroke, like the FSM shows.
[my 88 jeep broke the whole clutch pedal off at 100kmiles]
2/3 done (or all done)
i now go to the Igition switch, I then HOT wire it.
if that dont work , then I just stupidly(me) found out i have a bad fuse ,which should have all been checked first. grrrrrrrr.....
if the IG SW HOT wire works, the ignition switch is no freakn GOOD.
if i have no power the the igniton switch , i then trace it back to the fuse panel.
done.
that is the whole deal.
if some one hacked in some POS alarm system with cannable splices or wire wire nuts
good luck with that.
in that case , i rip all that garbage out of the car and return the car to factory lock box stock condition using soldering and heatshink splices.
when done , THAT will never happen again. ( so far , no comebacks)
if you really need a wirng diagram , ask.
BTW the other technique is walking a volt meter from the starter solinode key line
back to the igntion key Start terminal, 100% chance of finding problem, every time.
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When I bought the new starter [solenoid attached] the parts desk guy mentioned that I should not hit the solenoid [like we always used to do in the olden days] because it could damage the solenoid and void the warranty. Other than that, I agree that it is strong enought to handle a rubber hammer [if you could get one in there] or a moderate tap from a broomstick. Worked for me. Good luck!!
I purchased my sisters wrecked Sidekick and had the same thing happen with turning the key over and got nothing, not even a click like it was a starter just nothing at all, had lights and everything. Talked to her later and told her and asked her if she had ever had that happen with it, She said all the time! so I asked her what she did to get it started, she said you know the shifter, just grab hold of the shifter and jiggle it and turn the key over and eventually it will start, she drove it like this for who knows how long and then passed it on to her daughter with the same instructions. It's the park neutral safety switch in my case that I now have to replace.
Geo Tracker
Linear Mode
