I've just started getting a vibration when driving. It starts at about 30mph and gets worse the faster I go.
It happens when I'm in 2 wheel drive high, I don't think it is wheel balance as the vibration is not coming up through the steering column.
I've manual wheel hubs and they both in the free position.
The vibration disappears when I freewheel (dip the clutch) and gets worse when I drive uphill.
The vibration slightly decreases when I take my foot off accelerator at speed.
However the vibration gets worse when approaching stalling (eg say I stay in 4th gear and I take my foot off the accelerator a let the car slow down.)
I don't know if this is related but at very slow speed (eg parking) when I turn full lock I have a point where the steering goes heavy past this point the steering is free/easy again.
This vibration is major and nothing like loose exhaust, trim, tyre pressure etc.
Good diagnostic checking so far, I'm no expert, but here's a couple of ideas. BTW how many km/miles on the truck? It does sound suspiciously like a bad u joint to me. I have seen ujoints over the years which appeared under quick checks were ok, but were in fact worn out. If it goes away when you disengage the clutch, that pretty much rules out wheel
balance issues, and also, I would think, anything from the transfer case on down to the front wheels. Unless there is an engine issue causing it to run rough and vibrate, and transmit this vibration down the driveline, my vote is for a rear driveline issue. Good luck and keep us posted, those of us with 15yr old + track/kicks could encounter stuff like this anytime!
I've just got back from the main dealer who took it for a test drive and has diagnosed the prop shaft as the most probable cause.
Unfortunatly on their system it give two conflicting part numbers
27102-60A10 -- 16 -- @ £165.51
or
27102-85C00 -- 25 -- @ £172.06
Both shaft prop assy prices plus vat plus fitting.
They estimate about an hours labour cost.
Apparantly they have different diameters across the four cylindrical ends of the yoke. Parts guy did me a nice drawing.
Are the ubolts the same thing as the yoke?
Anyone got a good source within the UK and would we need special tools to fit, apparantly the fitting is very straight forward.
Anyone got an idea how to measure the ends (or other way of identifing) without removing the old one?
One final question what breaks or wears out on a prop shaft to need it to be replaced? Obviously it must be out of balance to cause the vibration and I'm certain it has not been hit bumped or damaged as the car is only used on the road.
You will probably find, once you drop the prop shaft that one on the universal jounts is rusted and frozen in position, it is not required that you replace the shaft, just the Xjoints in the ends, this can be accomplished with a large bench vice, here in Canada the joints cost about $15.00ea
Hi Kathrein, I'm unsure if you refer to a grease fitting on the u-joint, or on the actual drive shaft. Some u-joints have grease fittings, others are "greaseless" . In any event, greasing a shot u-joint isn't going to work. Once they wear out, it's too late, and they need replacing. If there is a fitting on the driveshaft tube, that would be a slider joint, and yes, by all means grease it, but again, only as maintenance, it's not going to fix anything. As regards changing out the u-joints, the procedure described is accurate, however this is only when all goes well. My experience with u-jts. has been that when it comes to u-joints, it almost never "all goes well". They come apart easy when new, but as time and mileage go on, they get harder to get apart. They can be very frustrating, and if one isn't careful, you can easily "spring" a yoke, sort of stretching it open wider than it is supposed to be, and then you are done. Then it's off to a driveline repair shop to get a new yoke put on. My humble opinion (I'm sure there will be others who disagree)
is that it's best just to get a mechanic to do it. That way he can fight with it, and save you tons of frustration, bleeding knuckles, and extra trips to the parts store (or worse).
I hope this helps.
Ken
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