My Haynes manual sais my rotor turns clock wise as does the engine. I've been trying to get my dads 92 Sidekick four by four 1.6 litre multi port to run ever since i got the computer rebuilt. I pulled the cap to set TDC and noticed the rotor turns counterclockwise when turning the starter. I moved all the wires around to match the 1-3-4-2 firing order starting at the number one position on the cap that is at the top on the left side of the screw. But it turns the other way. I tried all the possible combinations of wire positions and rotor position. It's sooooo close but it just won't fire. I took off that big bolt at the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gass to the injecters. Now what? Why would it turn the opposite way of the Haynes manual? Thanks
you can run it on Propane or instant start , if you desire feed back that engine and timing are sound. I like propane , it is very safe to use, no liquids to get on hands or clothing.
much safer.
just take any cheap torch (un lighted of course!!!!) and just give intake a little snort
2 seconds, ,
crank, and veroom
I can keep an engine running all day just by bleeding propane into the induction.
Truckers use it for extra power and for cold starting , built in!
we can get you going quickly.
post the facts.
(what you have, what you did, and what it doesnt do correct)
I tried the rotor and the wires at the 5 pm position. According to the junk book the firing order is 1-3-4-2. I set up the wires from the 5 position and it still wouldn't start. I'll try again tomorrow. Is the rotor supposed to move counter clock wise though? It sais in the Haynes that the 8 valve moves that way and the 16 moves clockwise. So if I reset the rotor to the 5 position and assume that the 5 is the number one spark plug that would make the next position to the right of the 5 position the number 3 wire and so on? Thanks
I tried that exact procedure yesterday and it still won't fire. I sprayed in the quick start in the spark plug holes and later into the big air intake tube.
I ground all plugs and saw the nice fat spark. Still no start.
All these things worked before the ECM fried.
New cap and rotor, new wires.
The mechanic who originaly diagnosed the ECM failure mentioned that the dizzy was shorting out the ECM. Is this a possibility? You mentioned in an earlier post this was not possible though. I'm leaning towards sending the ECM back to AVpro for a retest.
I did that 12 volt to the injectors thing I read about before reading your posts on how bad that is. Could that be it? I only did it to the number one injector though. Thanks for all your help.
I took another look at your latest pics of how the rotor and wires are run on the 16 valve. You've got the lower screw that is closer to the drivers side fender as the 12:00 oclock position. Is that correct? I figured that to be the 6 oclock. I'll retry it as the 12 position today and let you know what happens. Thanks
you have spark, dizzy CAS is sending pulse up to ECm , ECM is firing the COIL.
coil is sparking, , plugs are sparking, so the only issue is timing.
Gee, the electronics is working perfect.
IT is possible to time the DIZZY with Number 1 on any post !
(the only issue is wire length and the procedure to do it.)
My drawing , will work.
I checked many manuals(I do not have an oem FSM 16v) and all ignore 16v ,every one.
chiltons, Hanyes, etc.
you did validate that the DIZZY rotates CCW, proving it is opposite of 8v.
This fact, also renders the instuctions in said manuals , wrong.
each book shows reconnecting ,using the pre-disassembly marks you had made.
then each book says if you forgot this step (or if you just bought a new head/block) how to do it, but fails to show the 16v , ever single time it fails.
So, the FSM is the only book that shows how to do it.
Unlike point igntion cars, one could crank the engine thru slowly and you can watch
the spark ,as #1 came up to TDC fire. It would go snap.
but on these ECM cars, there is a minimum RPM , rule. and you cant do that. Dang !
On these we must make sure that #1 is firing at the top of the compression stroke by
either looking at the cams, or by looking at a compression guage ,inserted into #1.
then as #1 comes up, and pressure rises and you see the crank pully hit 0
you then look at the DIZZY and say , is #1 plug wire , under the brass rotor tip?
Yes, you are good to go. (start engine and fine tune timing with timing light)
NO, back to the square one, you did it wrong.
jtgh...I agree. the Haynes Manuals are a POS. When I replaced my timing belt (16V), the manual was wrong as far as TDC and the rotor position. I just lined up the marks on the crank and cam pulleys and changed out the belt. I know that this is off subject, but it points out how bad the Haynes books are. I purchased a set of Toyota Manuals for my Camry and would like to find a set for my Tracker. Any Idea where to purchase factory manuals for my 96 Tracker?
Thanks Bear
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