Does a 1996 Tracker have a relearn process to go through after the battery has been out for a long time?
I have a 96 16v automatic transmission, 2wd, 2dr softtop, 87,000 miles and I was wondering if there is a relearn process.
Thanks and Merry Christmas
It is a 1.6L, 3 spd automatic, 2x4, 87,000 miles, 16v, 2dr softtop. It did have a stereo system and alarm that someone else disconnected, do not know about remote locks.
I bought it apart and trying to put together to drive.
Changed t'stat, cleaned gas tank, changed fuel filter, fuel pump strainer, crankshaft position sensor (p0335 code) .
Engine starts great, idles great, water temperature gets up to high side of gauge but not into hot, timing will not set at 5 BTC as label under hood calls for (it fluctuates from 2 to 10 BTC). Bogs on acceleration unless it is done very easlily, tromp it it dies, will run transmission on jack stands but will not move truck.
My nest step is to clean TPS and MAP. If that doesn't work I will change timing belt (I will anyway but I wanted to see it run first) and make very sure it is in time. I probably need to clean the injector rail also.
I am good at changing parts but newer stuff confounds me, if you know what I mean.
hello 96 16v
, nice car ! , they have the smarter and more reliable ECU.
ME too, mine had everything bad ,cept engine. tranny was ground to chucks. had to do it all over. Like getting a dog from the city pound, saved from the crusher.
can i presume the car has new cap ,rotor,wires and plugs,(tune up)
these parts are critical to power under load and cold starting.
the timing bounces, because ecu is doing its thing.(normal all EFI)
PM me real email, for full spec. on timing. small PDF file I will send.
to set timing you MUST place a test jumper on the Diagnositic connector.
maps and tps can't be cleaned only tested. or replace at huge cost.
10 mins work saves $500 , is real.
it is easy to do. ask me. (have spec and proc. on file)
Your car has the following items that can go wrong common.
air leaks. (any hose to induction plenum (below Throttle body)
no order but very common:
1-EGR VALVE STUCK OPEN (worse than lean, it will be a pig)
2-cracked exhaust manifold ( will cause Hot failure only will run ok cold with that. Crack , kills ops of OXY sensor.
Dirty MAF sensor (can be cleaned with CRC spary)
if tank gas was bad, all 4 injectors have 10micron filters in side
they too might be clogged. Injector shops can clean them for $16 each. but wait on that.
your engine sounds hyper lean when hot. dont drive it far, bad for pistons. (no hills) you could get detonation.
to measure rail pressure one needs a special rail plug adaptor.
but look for a fitting on the rail that looks like a tire valve on a motor cycle type. (all metal) < not OEM.
the front plug under the fuel pressure regulator can be removed
and a new plug fitted (metic thread) with pipe fitting placed.
then any 0 -50 or more guage can be used to measure pressure.
if pressure is ok, (the screens can still be dirty) should read 30psi.
QUESITONS:
ok, does car run and have full power cold (?)
hot, you said no! (got that)
if it run perfect cold that is an important data point.
HOT test:
when hot, can you get full power if you put the gas pedal all the way to the floor, THAT is a special mode in the ECU.
this is called WOT (wide open throttle) if you get full power here
it tells you , that the INJECTORs (or pressure) are not faulty.
see? That's a trick.
the other magic tricks:
run car with TPS or MAF disconnected or both and note results
hot and cold.
If all result in crappy runing ,the car is very sick.
the above forces the ECU to go to LIMP HOme mode and will be
RICH and slightly retard timing (but will have plenty of power not full)
Car runs about the same hot or cold. It will not pull itself. Idle is fine but it has to be acelerated very easily or it will die.
I will download files. I did fine a clamp missing on air plenum tube after MAP.
will check all tubing and manifold for cracks. I was wondering if I need to clean the injectors and fuel rail. Oxygen sensor could be dirty also there is a lot of suet in the throttle I will clean it. It is cold and raining here so I might get to it as I am working in my driveway.
I think also if I can get her running fair it would be good insurance to replace the timing belt and tensioner. While I am at it the water pump also. I suspect a timing problem because she is running on the warm side without a load (being driven)
Thanks again I'll let you know my progress.
your plan is perfect , get her running then do a tier 3 tune up, belts ,etc.
if it dont run cold , the car is very sick.!
when cold it should have lots of power. (canned maps for cold)
the oxygen and MAF do nothing when cold so if car fails cold , they are not it.
your car starts and runs with a TPS . cold.
the TPS can be bad , and ECU will try to run the engine with the MAF/MAP as a backup.
The things to do are.
find any air leaks.
test the TPS with an ohm meter, it is easy to do on car.
dont take it off as you will mess up the CALibration.
your cars TPS can be tested with any ohm meter.
disconnect it and place the leads.
the pot total resistance can be 3000 to 6000 ohms, crude device.
there is a wiper arm.
you need to connnect the ohm meter to the wiper arm and one end.
and then move the throttle by hand and watch the readings.
it MUST RISE from low to HIGH with NO JUMPING.
this device can be OPEN circuited on the wiper (common prob. as it wears)
it can be border line and just make and break and jump.
if it is not smooth it is junk. time for a new one. if open (infinity) on the wiper, it is dead.
see next post for photo.
your car has: ( pick one )
1- stuck open EGR main valve , seat held open with carbon
2- bad TPS
3- Air leak (anywhere, even cracked in half injector o-rings, cracked gaskets, cracked hose ,or cracked vacuum diaphragms. )
meter to ohms scale. ( 10 or 20k ohm scale if you have that)
2 tests.
leads to gray/red and gray /yellow. (end to end test)
3k to 6k ( approx ) ohms, if infinity , bad TPS
meter to
Gray and Gray/red (wiper test)
vary throttle and unit must vary from low to high (numbers arent important)
just low to high,
eg; varies smoothly from 1000 ohms to 3000 ohms.
if it does that SMOOTHLY , its a good TPS.
if it passes ,check EGR. next. ( a stuck open EGR is really bad)
if EGR is ok, I would then check the Fuel pressure at the rail.
30 psi at idle and holds strong up to any RPM.
( i test vacuum leaks by pinching hose, skip PCV and ISC hose)
jtgh is there a simple procedure for a 96 tracker 1.6L 16v timing belt replacement? I saw yours on a 8v and the one listed under timing problems thread.? Do I have to back off on the valve adusters? Can the belt be changed with static timing set at #1 at TDC and crank and cam marks in line with their prospective marks?
I am trying to get a warm place to work on my tracker in the meantime I am trying to learn what I can to get her running.
Thanks for all your good info.
Happy New Year!
bclark
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relearn after battery has been disconnected
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