Old geezer question

[LongRod]

I have a 1994, two wheel drive automatic Tracker with an 8 valve engine. It runs OK but I decided to check my idle RPM's. Easy eh? I got out my 40 year old Dwell/Tachometer. This unit has two clips on the connecting wire that look alot like the small clamps used on jumper cables. On OLD American cars these clips were placed on the two posts on top of the ignition coil located on either side of the main wire that ran to the center of the distributor. Back then all ignition coils looked alike and were large silver metal cans with two exposed threaded posts on top. The ignition coil on my Tracker looks nothing like this and has no exposed posts on top (or anywhere else).
So how do I hook up my old dwell/tachometer to check my RPM's???

[jtgh]

that's a great question. >>>click>>>dizzy
warning, sensative electronics parts are here, and very expensive.
If you blow that Igniter , kiss of $274 plus labor.

If you want to check the timing (dwell is FIXed in the software of the ECU)
you need only 2 things, a small jumper wire and a $11 Harbor Freight Timing light.
It must be an inductive lamp (or again , risk damage to parts)

here is the procedure for timing.
you must know if your car is a california car or a federal 49 state car.

in a nut shell:
place jumper as shown in FSM, this tells the Ecu (PUTER) TO FREEZE TIMING.
the advancing weights of old were replaced with software in the 80's

In my opinion , Id use an optical tachometer to measure RPM.
or buy a modern Tacho that is compatible with electronic controls and there is a port to connect to under the hood. (risky )

The steps for setting the RPM are sumular to setting the dynamic timing.
the timing marks are still on the front of the engine.
Your Distributor Dizzy has a Cas sensor in side that simulates points this signal is sent to the ECU and the Ecu RUNS THE WHOLE SHOW. sPARK, IGNITION AND TIMING.AND FUEL.

on this engine the timing should never change unless the Cam belt (or idler) go bad.
for idle , I run mine as slow as I can get it and be smooth , that is because, I hate the
1200 cold ilde RPM. ( sounds like a Sopwith Camel fixn to lift off)
if you need excerpts from the FSM ,PM me.
FSM= factory service manual, and PM , personal mail.

ECU = Engine control Unit , Car Puter.
CAS - crank angle sensor ( no more points) (a hall sensor and a shaping amp)

never ground something or place 12vdc to anything HERE, unless specifically stated so in the FSM. ( old schoolers blow up stuff like crazy)
By the way the FSM shows how to do it all, even testing parts on car and off car.
If you have a library card, I can teach you how to get access to ARRC.
Arrc has a free (tax paid by library) on line FSM.
Just need a home computer and a Lib.card.

many people have yet discovered this rich resource.

[tracka96]

Unless you're referring to something different, you don't need a library card to access ARRC. Just go here, Bedford Public Library -- AARC
Click on the AARC logo, then enter the word library for user name and also for password. Good site. Tracka96

[ranger88den]

Search this forum for this thread "Underhood tach hook up". Good luck, Dave

[Nates'90]

I've got a dash out of a '90 5 speed with a tach... dunno how complicated it'd be to wire up.

The coil's on the fire wall, on the drivers side. it's got a plastic cap over the end of it. or it does on my '90

~Nate

[jtgh]

Watch out what you plug in to that tac output.
50 years of tach's and some can be really bad. optical works on all, no risk, no problems.
Like a doctor, "first do no harm".
I keyed of old ,test equipment. seen that , done that , killed that.


ARRC, library x2 , if everyone in his brother does that, it will be killed soon.
why kill it.
?
BTW, I have links to many ARRC libs with short cuts(?) and most have been taken off line by
need for Bar code or they validate your IP ( see ?)

BTW: notice there is no standard (iso or SAE) for tach outputs, sad really.