Does anyone know where I can buy new ones at? I have searched and can not find them. Are these special in any way? Or can I go down to the hardware store and just buy some bolts with the same threading and length?
Thanks Schoner. I guess the old bolts were just too old and worn that they broke when I was tightening them to the first recommended set of 24 ft. lbs. But I have never used a torque wrench before, and I guess it is supposed to click when it gets to the set amount of torque, but it never did. Then the bolts snapped inside the head, so tomorrow I need to remove them.
I have no idea what bolts I need to get, I don't know if it is a 6 or a 9 on the bolt, so here are some pics, maybe you can help me out.
I'm now going to get new head bolts too so as not to have the same thing happen when replacing my head!
wow what an idiot I am! After re-reading the directions, it was 24 INCH lbs not FOOT lbs. Boy am I a friggin dumb@$$. Well it is all a learning experience!
It looks like a 6 to me but I'm not sure, I would take it a bolt place and they would know. Make sure the torque wrench your using is accurate at that low. It's common to miss the click at such low settings I've done it myself before. Lubing the the bolt threads and friction point with oil or special bolt lube will help get all the bolts to an accurate and uniform torque otherwise some of the energy is wasted on the friction of the threads and head. So I would clean the bolt holes with brake clean then blow out the hole with air making sure that its clear of any oil or junk then lube the bolt slightly. Also I would check that torque spec 24 ft/lbs seems high to me, make sure its for 16V. My Suzuki service manual is at work I'll double check tomorrow. I just bought a $380 Snap-On torque wrench. Also I think the head bolts must be replaced because I think they are torque to yield witch stretches the bolt and can not be used again. ARP head studs can be bought and it's what I used in mine, studs are stronger by design and the ARP use stronger materials and also head studs make it easier to line up the head and gasket and can be used multiple times.
Most imports use grade 9 bolts for engine parts. Besides even if it's grade 6, you can't go wrong by getting a grade 9 bolts. You can take off another one and take to a dealer, but you need to becareful when removing them because they need to be loosened/tightened in sequence. Check manual.
97inch lbs is 8 ft/lbs, ouch.
the manual I have says.
24,48,72 and then 97 INCH POUNDS.
is use an inch pound toque beam,
I use it for inch lbs and if i have low values like 15 ft.lbs
I multiply that by 12 x15 =180 inch lbs.
the beam never lies, allways use a beam on aluminum.
be always happy.
Yea, stupid me, I re-read the directions, and well I saw it was supposed to be INCH LBS. not FOOT LBS. Boy do I feel stupid. But it is all in learning! But now I have to get the bolts removed since they snapped, only thing is I am having trouble getting the lobe guides off on the intake side, exhaust side they come out no problem, but intake side are all stuck in.
Where can I buy the ARP head bolts? I need this to be done before New Years!
sound like you will be helicoiling them.
Mil equip,is 100% coiled, cuz of this same problem found in the field.
Suzi sells new bolts, or you can ask on market place here, many have them.
the problem is the head shape , doesnt it fit into a tight recess?
finding hard metric bolts is not hard at all . even ACE carries them.
ask for help in store. The only other issue is the head.
Many non chain auto stores have the blue boxes full of them or behind counter. any grade you want.
20 years ago one had to scavenge the yards to get bolts.
Metric , what is that?
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camshaft/lobe bolts
I just bought a $380 Snap-On torque wrench.
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