very low friction point

[Nates'90]

Since I've owned the truck, the friction point's (where the clutch engadges) has been about .5" off the floor... Hasnt bothered me because I'm used to it, but whenever someone else drives it they grind the gears a little bit between shifts because they dont listen when I said push it down all the way...

I assume this is just a cable adjustment, because it's got a newer clutch in it (not from me)...

How should I adjust the cable to raise the friction point?
tks alot
~Nate
(who just aquired a ~95 with a NICE hard top for parts, good lights and bumpers, newer tires, good rims, good hood, good interior, good transfer case, and good 16v engine... good truck, little rusty bad tranny)
Got it cheap, will pass the savings on... Email of pm me if you want anything...

[jtgh]

I want ecu PUTER.
"in the voice of John Balushi , "sell me your your children" Blues Brothers."
$50 cash ,paypal or Oakleaves.

Adj. is on the bottom end off clutch lever at , right side of bell housing. Nut + jam nut sometimes.
Adusts just like a bicycle brake lever or Motor cycle. ( they stole the Idea from the UK)
take out all slack , save 1/8 inch (sorry, 4mm) (or 12 to 25 mm at the pedal)

if that doesnt fix it ,the Pressure plate fingers are Anealed (softend due to overheating or age).

have a great day.

[Nates'90]

Cash or check's awesome... $50 plus shipping from 54703 sound ok? Might take a while to get there, cause of the holiday shipping rush,



What's up with your ECU, how's the truck run?

My driver's got a cold idle issue... idles at around 2000rpm, and hunts between that and 1200 when it's almost warm. when it's warm it idles around 500rpm or so...
It's kinda funny, cause the parts one idles cold at 1200rpm (that's perfect, right?) then warm idles down to 0rpm (that cant be right )

that's not ECU issues, is it? (if so, how could I fix the one i drive?)

Tell me where the ECU is, and how do I remove it without damaging it, and I'll get it out the door ASAP. Anything else you want?

It's got the center console with cup holders... For the right price I'll let it go...
Thanks alot
~Nate

[jtgh]

do you have paypal. if yes send me a PM or send me your address in PM.
speed is not an issue or shipper. Im making a harness for my custom ECU. (non Suzuki)
Your issue:
sounds like your car is an 8valve and all 8 valvers RACE when they have an intake Air leak.
a vacuum leak as we call it.
on an 8V, the engine ECU will detect the leak (map sensor) and match it with a perfect mixture of gas. so it races and makes tons of power.
but it is busted ,non the less.
PossibleS:
hose cracked , split or dropped of one for the vacuum lines.
Vacuum booster diaphragm cracked or its hose , brake unit. (uncommon)
EGR valve loose or gasket cracked.
IAC loose.
IAC stuck full open (common)
Anything else that could leak air into the main induction plenum (below T


you gave very good problem discription: that 0 rpm is a bell ringer, says IAC is stuck.

cold 1200.
then when hot ,800 (then ECU controls IAC valve by modulating it for perfect idle)
should never drop below 800 unless IAC just stuck or the wires fell off of it.
I believe wires drop cause increase. so no that.


Clean IAC.

lets hope it is not ecu , crazy
do my ECU test here: ( its just a basic , test for "is it alive")

ECU