1991 Tracker Crankshaft issue :\

[Toddzilla]

Thanks to someone on here who mentioned why my timing kept coming out could be my crankshaft, because it was. Someone who worked on my tracker didnt locktite my crank bolt and it came loose and stripped and caused all kinds of damage to my crankshaft, so i got a new crankshaft from a buddy at work and when i went to buy bearings I found out in my Haynes manual that there are 3 engine types and 3 crankshaft types for these stupid things haha, so my crankshaft says A2 on it, and it's supposed to say on my engine on it's Mating Surface if it's A B or C...

Here's my question, Are all 1991 trackers the same? All A2? And where's my Mating Surface to check which my engine is, under the oil pan? I just pulled my engine tonight.

[Shconer]

There arent really differant crankshafts just different main journal sizes. I would take it to a machine shop and they will sort it out. They may have to resize the crankshaft and line bore the block. It's something that should be done anyway when fitting a different crank to block to get the proper clearances.

[jtgh]

or $$$$ why do all that.....
just buy a used block.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market



89-98 same g16 blocks, match 16v for 16v (notched pistions)
maybe some vitara's will work? dont know. looks like 8V only. on early Vitara.

[Shconer]

Well you never know what you getting with a used motor, and once the machining is done the crank will be freshly reground and polished with new bearings so it will esentially be a brand new bottom end. I guess if you think its worth the risk of getting a damaged or worn out engine than i guess so.

[jtgh]

no problem just offering a low buck solution.
its real common here.
trying not to spend $1k to fix a 1k car.
well I did but , Im still a cheap skate.

[Wheelhorse97]

you both bring excellent points to the table.

A short block would be a low buck solution, but really, what are you getting? A quick fix for something you may want to sell.

Machine work will get very expensive. If I were you and you have a crank, you will want your rotating assembly balanced.

The block will need to be checked for any warpage, chances are it should be on but it never hurts. If done properly and if you decide to have your head freshened check that for warpage as well I see no reason why you could not get another 200,000 miles out of that engine.

Block surface is .0005 per ft
Head surface is .001 per ft allowable warpage.

Your machinist will check this with a straight edge and feeler gauge. As far as your crank, you will want to be sure it turns straight and true and that your mains and rod journals are properly sized for your rod big ends and your blocks mains.

Explain to your machinist what you are looking to have done, they will give you a rough estimate and then inflate it by 20% to be safe. You then can weight out what your best option will be.

[jtgh]

but having 2 blocks makes getting 1 good one vastly cheaper.

at the wrecker (call first) say, I want the block.
and i WANT A WARRANTEE.
The warrantee gives me a week to check it .
if it is bad, I want a replacement or my money back.
if they refuse ,walk.

there are many wreckers ,that I wouldnt give the time of day.
pure Crooks!
but the warrantee test , finds the honest ones !

[tracka96]

Some people have gotten away with doing a weld job on the worn crank and made it work. Might be worth checking in to. Tracka

[jtgh]

remove crank , take to machine shop.
they will protect it and weld it and then machine it.
It can be repaired ! ( using TIG , and gently)

give them a new key and a new cog gear to measure.

[Shconer]

If the key hole is whats wrong then I think you can just machine another on the other side 180 degrees, no need for welding.