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Old 06-26-2007, 05:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default A few questions from a new guy...

I have a '98 tracker that I am quite pleased with, but I have a few minor questions.

First, how in the world do you change out the marker light bulbs! I have fought my hand into places that I thought I wasn't going to retrieve it from, taken all the rear plastic pieces off to get to the ones in the back, and could not reach a single one! I might have been able to get to the back ones if I had taken the seat belt retractor assemblys off of the body, but is it really that hard to do?

Second, is there any aftermarket source for the door switches for the interior lights, or is the junkyard the only place to get them?

Third, is there any way to adjust the computer or change a speed sensor gear for a larger set of tires? My 245's throw the speedometer off by about 5 mph at speed and I would really like to have the accuracy.

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tribal
As far as the side marker lights the lens pop off and the bulbs are mounted on the back side of the lens, duck tape on a straight slot screwdriver, carefully used should do the trick.

Sorry can’t help with the other questions my door switches are bad as well. LOL.
And I’m still running 205’s.
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Old 06-26-2007, 09:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You can pick up the door switches from any electronics store, you need the normally open switches that close when they're pressed. I know Addison Electronics have them in Montreal. Not sure about your area but the Internet is a good easy source.

Usually the switches are good and the problem is the GROUND. Make sure the switch is getting a good ground from the sheetmetal.

The rear side markers are accesible by removing the corresponding inside trim panel. But JcT's method is great, would save a lot of time, pry off the lens and change...

As far as I know, the speedo on the Sidekicks are mechanical and cable driven, you can probably take the speedo apart from the dash and find the adjusment screw in there, there usually is one, not sure about Suzukis but old Fords that used the same technology had one on the back of the speedo. It looks like any ordinary adjustment screw.
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Old 06-27-2007, 01:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Will the lens have to be glued back on, or does it snap together?
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The entire thing pops off the fender, not just the amber or red sections, but the whole piece, including the black surrounding framework. They’ve got plastic locking tabs on the back. The bulbs are secured to the backs by a half twist.
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Old 07-02-2007, 04:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I got the marker lights fixed finally, after I broke down and read the manual. Apparently, I didn't even need the screwdriver since they will unclip at the front if they are given a good push from the front. (Although the screwdriver did work on the one that I tried it on)

I also tried to remove the instrument cluster to check out the possibility of an adjusting screw, but after many curses and scrapes it was decided that it was not worth the effort involved.

I do have one other question though, my tracker currently has 131,000 miles on it and I am beginning to have a problem with a hesitation when it is not at operating temps. In first it acts normal, but in second through fifth it will wind up from idle to about 2000 rpm fine, but after that kind of smoothly falls on its face until about 3000 rpm where it picks back up and accelerates fine. I changed out plugs and wires since this started happening, with no change. All plugs were a good tan color when pulled out. I do have a check engine light on for the infamous carboned EGR tubes, but the light has been on for as long as I have owned it and this is a pretty recent occurrence. Any thoughts on what it could be?
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Tribal Guy,
Did you get the stumbble between 2000 and 3000 RPM's fixed?




Quote:
Originally Posted by tribal_guy4
I got the marker lights fixed finally, after I broke down and read the manual. Apparently, I didn't even need the screwdriver since they will unclip at the front if they are given a good push from the front. (Although the screwdriver did work on the one that I tried it on)

I also tried to remove the instrument cluster to check out the possibility of an adjusting screw, but after many curses and scrapes it was decided that it was not worth the effort involved.

I do have one other question though, my tracker currently has 131,000 miles on it and I am beginning to have a problem with a hesitation when it is not at operating temps. In first it acts normal, but in second through fifth it will wind up from idle to about 2000 rpm fine, but after that kind of smoothly falls on its face until about 3000 rpm where it picks back up and accelerates fine. I changed out plugs and wires since this started happening, with no change. All plugs were a good tan color when pulled out. I do have a check engine light on for the infamous carboned EGR tubes, but the light has been on for as long as I have owned it and this is a pretty recent occurrence. Any thoughts on what it could be?
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here's your door jamb switch, but like mentioned...check your existing connections.

1998 CHEVROLET TRACKER Door Jamb Switch

On the speedo...suggest calibrating it along side a known accurate vehicle for ref, or use HWY mile markers (60 seconds, 60 MPH) and then place a small piece of electrical tape cut into a dot or diamond shape on the cluster face noting those values. Better than nothing. I don't think you'll have much luck attempting to adjust your factory speedo.
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Old 10-31-2007, 02:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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switches are at suzuki,
need pn?
speedo, EPC shows no range of speedo gears.at tranny.
like most cars have.
so no way to compensate for error.?
save (custom dial faces and lots of web sites sell these and customtoo)
might be pricey.


you didnt say slush pump or 5 speed, kinda important , for parts.
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Mine is a 5-speed, and I did figure out the stumble thing. It turns out that there was a corossion buildup on the distributor cap terminals where they meet the rotor. A little emery cloth fixed it up completely.
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