Timing Marks - #4?

[Silentbob]

I took some pics of the 16v head I have atm, hope they help clarify jtgh.



As you can see, there are 2 reference points on the outer edge, E & I. There are alos matching references against the 2 dowel slots.



This is with the cam at #1 TDC, I have dabbed the dowel and sprocket points with white paint. If you use the 'I' slot, the thing does not line up with anything.

[jtgh]

16v fast tbelt swap

illegal belt tension way: ( and not published anywhere)

Originally Posted by veryboard

I you are timing engine with #1 TDC timing marks should face towards each other.
E down dowel key up on cam, ( 180 deg. rule on key, cool that is my answer)
crank pulley mark to oil pump mark.
Mark #1 wire on dist.

factory way: (see link above)
If you are timing engine with #4 TDC cam pulley mark up to cover and crank pulley mark to oil pump mark. ( as it should be)
Mark #4 wire on dist,instead of #1 wire.I did mine the first way with no problems engine runs perfect.

the #1 way will result in belt whip. of course it will run, but not for 100k.

#4 , rotate 360 degrees , back to #1 and set dizzy.
To time the dizzy, see my link but set crank to TDC #1 firing.
(assuming dizzy or head was removed or messed with by PO)
remove dizzy, reinsert so that rotor is in position shown here.

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/IGN_timing/16vn1.jpg

pretty clear , out of FSM. uh?
now make sure the gears are meshed such that the bolt in top is in the middle of its slot and that the rotor is exactly at #1 tower post.
lock it down. Cap on . wires at the ready.
you are almost done , except the fine tuning of ignition timing with a light.

lay the wires down on the dizzy 1 , 3, 4, 2 in the CCW direction.
Counter clock wise ( anti clockwise for others)

you can time the dizzy 4 ways, and it will run perfect.
but only one way is the factory way.
so the next poor slob doesnt look at the Dizzy and freak out.

[jtgh]

silent bob can I publish your photos,? with credit ! as Silentbob , or ?

these words are not in any FSM on any sidekick or tracker.
it just says attach wheel to cam, not a word !
thanks for the liquid paper marks , very good !


many here agonize over this over situation. when pulling the seal.
but all the generic books on cams , tell you to mark it all. (words to live by)

nice camera too. (HR and close in) thanks.

now if i had a real crank front cog picture.??

[Silentbob]

Any pictures I put up here are yours to use as you wish, I will go take pics of the crank area now, I am fortunate to have the spare motor stripped and on the engine stand at the moment. Back in a minute.

[jtgh]

god bless you, i do not have these and others here would love them.
it updated , now.

[jtgh]

16v fast tbelt swap

refresh. F5 , if view before.

[jtgh]

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/t-belt/crank-cog-8v.jpg

we need a replacement for this image, nut on or off, no mater.
for indexing marks.

thanks, jerry.

PS; the diffs are trivial but it would be nice for the Real thing, as coke used to say.

[jtgh]

16v fast tbelt swap

i have a new 16v only page.
and anwers the hard questions with photos and links.

enjoy.

[Silentbob]

Had to make a tool to get the sprocket off, pretty crude but worked.

[jtgh]

simply perfect , thanks for share to all.

yes that tool is very good, if you have a automatic !
on some autos , only a small hole for flywheel inspection for a crank lock.
on manuals, there is a huge plate that removes.

I have a crank locker identical as your for my wifes car. but is a notched angle iron.
and only 2 holes, but i used grade 5 bolts.

thanks for the photos. ( they are super clear ! , thanks for ALL)


cheers.
16v fast tbelt swap

F5 refresh