Ok, you Samurai engine gurus, I've come to the conclusion that it's time to think about a rebuild. The 86 Samurai just got new tires (only 28") and 5th gear is not what it used to be. I know I may end up going with a lower gear set in the transfer case eventially (I'm rebuilding a spare right now), but, I also know the engine is getting a little tired and oil consumpsion is rising. I pulled the rocker shafts and did all the valve stem seals, which helped some. Compression is at 160psi, altough it's surprisingly consistent from cylinder to cylinder. I'm at 120K miles and I think now is the time to start getting things together for a rebuild. I'm going to bore as little as possible, as I'd like to keep from having as many things as possible add to overheating problems.
I wanted to pull the engine out of my 87 "farm truck" and go through it, but the wife wont let me have it, because she uses it feed hay every day. I'm going to stick with the 1.3, with a Weber carb and header w/2" exhaust, for various reasons I wont get into on here. I've done a few rebuilds over the years, but mostly S.B. Chevys, dirt bikes and industrial straight sixes.
I've done a search on here for some stuff, but never really came up with all the answers I was looking for. Here are the questions I have:
(1) Which versions of the Suzuki 1.3 block are a direct fit into the Samurai and can still use the 8V 1.3 head with mechanical fuel pump and angled rear distributer?
(1a) I have a line on a 92, out of a Samurai, w/F.I, for reasonable price that I could put in the farm truck and then use the farm motor for my rebuild. Does the intake from the 87 bolt up OK? I have an electric fuel pump and reg. laying around the shop for the carb.
(2) If, I change to a higher compression ratio piston, when will I start running into valve interference problems when the timing belt breaks? I don't mind burning premium, but really don't want to spend $6 a gallon for race gas
(3) I'd really like to change to a nice mid range cam too, while still avoiding interference during timing belt failure. Possible?
(4) I've always gone with stiffer valve springs and lighter lifter componets on S.B.Chevys when I've gone up on cam lift and duration. Are stiffer springs needed on the 1.3 when cams get more radical? I've read 1.6 springs are stiffer and a direct fit?
(5) Who grinds a nice cam for better performance from 2500 ~ 5500rpm?
(6) Balancing was a must have on any S.B. Chevy I built and made a real difference. How about the 1.3s?
I've got more things to find out about, but these are the ones that will get me started in the direction I want to go. I'm going to take awhile putting this all together, as there is no emergency (yet) to get it all done. The more time I have to shop, the better chance I'll get what I'm after. I'm planning on using new, as opposed to reconditioned, as much as I can afford to (rods, valves, valve train, etc.).
Thanks for any ideas.