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Old 11-27-2011, 10:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1.3 engine rebuild options and questions?

Ok, you Samurai engine gurus, I've come to the conclusion that it's time to think about a rebuild. The 86 Samurai just got new tires (only 28") and 5th gear is not what it used to be. I know I may end up going with a lower gear set in the transfer case eventially (I'm rebuilding a spare right now), but, I also know the engine is getting a little tired and oil consumpsion is rising. I pulled the rocker shafts and did all the valve stem seals, which helped some. Compression is at 160psi, altough it's surprisingly consistent from cylinder to cylinder. I'm at 120K miles and I think now is the time to start getting things together for a rebuild. I'm going to bore as little as possible, as I'd like to keep from having as many things as possible add to overheating problems.
I wanted to pull the engine out of my 87 "farm truck" and go through it, but the wife wont let me have it, because she uses it feed hay every day. I'm going to stick with the 1.3, with a Weber carb and header w/2" exhaust, for various reasons I wont get into on here. I've done a few rebuilds over the years, but mostly S.B. Chevys, dirt bikes and industrial straight sixes.
I've done a search on here for some stuff, but never really came up with all the answers I was looking for. Here are the questions I have:

(1) Which versions of the Suzuki 1.3 block are a direct fit into the Samurai and can still use the 8V 1.3 head with mechanical fuel pump and angled rear distributer?

(1a) I have a line on a 92, out of a Samurai, w/F.I, for reasonable price that I could put in the farm truck and then use the farm motor for my rebuild. Does the intake from the 87 bolt up OK? I have an electric fuel pump and reg. laying around the shop for the carb.

(2) If, I change to a higher compression ratio piston, when will I start running into valve interference problems when the timing belt breaks? I don't mind burning premium, but really don't want to spend $6 a gallon for race gas

(3) I'd really like to change to a nice mid range cam too, while still avoiding interference during timing belt failure. Possible?

(4) I've always gone with stiffer valve springs and lighter lifter componets on S.B.Chevys when I've gone up on cam lift and duration. Are stiffer springs needed on the 1.3 when cams get more radical? I've read 1.6 springs are stiffer and a direct fit?

(5) Who grinds a nice cam for better performance from 2500 ~ 5500rpm?

(6) Balancing was a must have on any S.B. Chevy I built and made a real difference. How about the 1.3s?

I've got more things to find out about, but these are the ones that will get me started in the direction I want to go. I'm going to take awhile putting this all together, as there is no emergency (yet) to get it all done. The more time I have to shop, the better chance I'll get what I'm after. I'm planning on using new, as opposed to reconditioned, as much as I can afford to (rods, valves, valve train, etc.).

Thanks for any ideas.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Okay...
1)As Long as the engine is G13BA engine model as far as the mechanicals to the transmission it should be a straight bolt up.
1a) YOU need the Engine completely intact or you will have one hell of a jigsaw on your hands.
2) Flat top pistons come with the Valve indents so it should not be an issue. Note you should never let your belt get that bad in the first place
3) The 8V G13BA engine is described as a non interference type so if the belt fails it is less likely to have bent valves. From experience here
4)No idea
5)Isky Makes a cam in that range. HIgh end power cam for Suzuki Samurai
6)No Idea
I have read about guys pulling as much as 200 Hp from these engines...the main point of weakness noted is the Valves and the Crank Shaft. So I guess there is much you can do with them.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ebattleon,
Thanks for the info. I took a look at the Isky cam and it seems like what I'm looking for. As far as flat top pistons having valve indents, a lot of engines need them to make clearance for valve overlap at T.D.C. I'm not that familiar with the Suzuki, so, I was hoping to hear from somebody out there that has some hands on experience with. I try to keep timing belts replaced before they are due, but I've had one go before it's time and would like to avoid the headaches that go with it. I also had a timing chain skip at only 35k on an AMC V8 that was a real disaster. All the vehicles I have now, except the Suzukis, are either gear drive cams, or double roller chain (Honda)
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Like I have not used the Flat Tops my self but the G13BA 8V is a non interference type so even with both valves were to open at the same time they would not hit each other or the piston.

Oh by the way what make of timing belt failed on you prematurely, so i never buy that brand. With Belts it either Gates or Bando for me.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebattleon View Post
Oh by the way what make of timing belt failed on you prematurely, so i never buy that brand. With Belts it either Gates or Bando for me.
85 Ford Escort, factory replacment, installed by dealer during head gasket replacement (warranty). Broke with less than 50K miles on it.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I was hoping to hear from Billjohn, or Baratacus on this subject, as they seem to have done a lot of tweeking on these little motors. Oh well.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Just PM them maybe they over looked your post as you sound like you can erbuild engines with your eyes closed
Or their still sleeping off the turkey dinners
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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There are a few thing I can do with my eyes closed. Engine work is not one of them. No matter how much you think you know, you can always learn more. Keep your eyes and mind open.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Azelgin View Post
There are a few thing I can do with my eyes closed. Engine work is not one of them. No matter how much you think you know, you can always learn more. Keep your eyes and mind open.
Well said
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azelgin View Post
Ok, you Samurai engine gurus, I've come to the conclusion that it's time to think about a rebuild. The 86 Samurai just got new tires (only 28") and 5th gear is not what it used to be. I know I may end up going with a lower gear set in the transfer case eventially (I'm rebuilding a spare right now), but, I also know the engine is getting a little tired and oil consumpsion is rising. I pulled the rocker shafts and did all the valve stem seals, which helped some. Compression is at 160psi, altough it's surprisingly consistent from cylinder to cylinder. I'm at 120K miles and I think now is the time to start getting things together for a rebuild. I'm going to bore as little as possible, as I'd like to keep from having as many things as possible add to overheating problems.
I wanted to pull the engine out of my 87 "farm truck" and go through it, but the wife wont let me have it, because she uses it feed hay every day. I'm going to stick with the 1.3, with a Weber carb ...ARE GARBAGE, TRY OFFROADING AT SOME ANGLES...and header w/2" exhaust, for various reasons I wont get into on here. I've done a few rebuilds over the years, but mostly S.B. Chevys, dirt bikes and industrial straight sixes.
I've done a search on here for some stuff, but never really came up with all the answers I was looking for. Here are the questions I have:

(1) Which versions of the Suzuki 1.3 block are a direct fit into the Samurai and can still use the 8V 1.3 head with mechanical fuel pump and angled rear distributer? DIRECT FIT... G13B

(1a) I have a line on a 92, out of a Samurai, w/F.I, for reasonable price that I could put in the farm truck and then use the farm motor for my rebuild. Does the intake from the 87 bolt up OK? I have an electric fuel pump and reg. laying around the shop for the carb. NOT WORTH THE WORK, YOU WOULD BE DOWNGRADING...

(2) If, I change to a higher compression ratio piston, when will I start running into valve interference problems when the timing belt breaks? I don't mind burning premium, but really don't want to spend $6 a gallon for race gas PUTTING HC FT PISTONS WILL PUT ALOT OF STRESS ON THE VERY LIMP CAST FACTORY BOTTOM END. IF YOUR GOING TO DO PISTONS, YOU NEED TO FIND A GT-I BOTTOM END(FORGED RODS,CRANK)

(3) I'd really like to change to a nice mid range cam too, while still avoiding interference during timing belt failure. Possible? AGAIN ADDED MORE POWER TO A LIMP 60 HP MOTOR WILL ONLY STRESS OUT THE WEAK BOTTOM END.

(4) I've always gone with stiffer valve springs and lighter lifter componets on S.B.Chevys when I've gone up on cam lift and duration. Are stiffer springs needed on the 1.3 when cams get more radical? I've read 1.6 springs are stiffer and a direct fit? STOCK SPRINGS ARE FINE, ITS NOT LIKE YOUR PUTTING IN A GROUND THUMPIN CAM LIKE THOSE V8 YOUR TALKING ABOUT HAD. YOU DO NEED TO REGROUND YOUR ROCKER ARMS FER SURE THOUGH!!!

(5) Who grinds a nice cam for better performance from 2500 ~ 5500rpm?
ISKY,, BUT IF YOU WANT MORE POWER YOU NEED TO DITCH THE 1.3!!!!!!! ITS TOO LIMP!!!!! START WITH SOMETHING WITH OK POWER LIKE A 1.6 16 VALVE, OR 2.0 DOHC VITARA MOTOR.

I've got more things to find out about, but these are the ones that will get me started in the direction I want to go. I'm going to take awhile putting this all together, as there is no emergency (yet) to get it all done. The more time I have to shop, the better chance I'll get what I'm after. I'm planning on using new, as opposed to reconditioned, as much as I can afford to (rods, valves, valve train, etc.).

Thanks for any ideas.
Hope this helps my friendo!
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