1986 Suzuki Samurai Evap Canister - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site
Suzuki Forum Suzuki Forums

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site > Suzuki Models > Suzuki Jimny, Sierra & Samurai Forum
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto LoansInsurance

Suzuki-Forums.com is the premier Suzuki Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-18-2010, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
racer37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
racer37 is on a distinguished road
Default 1986 Suzuki Samurai Evap Canister

What is the port on the bottom of the Evap canister supposed to hook to? I have three hoses on the top and nothing is connected to the bottom of the canister, or is it a vent? My EGR valve never moves. I took it off, cleaned it out and tested it again but it still doesn't move with the engine hot and revving it up. My catalytic converter has been cut off and straight piped. I am getting about 10 miles a gallon and I want to improve that. I ordered a new catalytic converter to put back on. Also my fuel pump is oily around it, and there is a port on the bottom portion of the fuel pump that has a hose on it and it is just dangling down, is this just a vent also? The engine runs great and spark plugs are chocolate brown but I am just getting horrible mileage.

Last edited by racer37; 09-19-2010 at 11:16 AM.
racer37 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-19-2010, 11:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,230
Gallery: 0
Baratacus is on a distinguished road
Default

the ports on the bottoms of the canister and the pump are vents/drains. Nothing should be coming out of them but air.

The EGR valve needs several things in order for it to work. It's not something you can just gun the engine and watch it pop open.It needs the EGR modulator, it needs the temperature sensor/bimetal vaccum switch, and it needs the vacuum switching valve on the back of the carb next to the EGR modulator. All of those parts need to be in working order and need to be hooked up correctly to the appropriate vacuum lines and electrical connectors. When that happens, Your EGR valve will be drawn open by the manifold vacuum and exhaust will be drawn through it. The conditions necesary for this to happen would be your RPM's would need to be above 2800 (I think) your intake manifold temperature would have to be hot enough to open the BVSV, the back pressure in your exhaust would need to be high enough to open the EGR modulator.

Can you define bad gas mileage? What size tires are you running and are you sure that all of your vaccuum lines are fresh rubber and are hooked up to the correct ports?
Baratacus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 09:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
Member
 
racer37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
racer37 is on a distinguished road
Default

I am getting around 10 miles a gallon. I fill up around 107 to 110 miles on a tank. I used to fill up at 160 miles on a tank so I was getting around 16 miles a gallon if my odometer is correct. I am running 32 x 11.50. I replaced all the vacuum lines sprayed around all of them with carb cleaner with engine running to check. Also my idle won't come below 1100 rpm's. I took one of the top hoses off the modulator and the harder I revved the engine the more it sucked. The big hose on the bottom of the modulator had no suck. I left the big hose that connects the modulator to the egr hooked on the egr and sucked on it with my mouth as hard as I could with engine at idle and nothing happened. When I manually push in the egr valve with all hoses connected, nothing changes it idles as normal. When I disconnect hose connecting modulator and egr valve and manually push egr valve in, the engine idles rough and tries to die. I have low gears in axles and also in transfer case so I realize I may not get 30 mpg but I would like to get back to my original 16 to 18 instead of the 10 mpg I am getting now. Also I looked on the bottom of the hood for the emissions routing and made sure all hoses were routed correctly.
racer37 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior
 
zooki4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Laurel Fork, VA
Posts: 150
Gallery: 0
zooki4x4 is on a distinguished road
Default

If your running a stock transfercase with 32's and no one has swaped the the gearing for the speedo your running about 22% off on the reading. The 16 mpg will be closer to 19.5 when corrected for it. Your speedo will be reading about 12 mph off at 55 just showing about 43. If you press on the back of the EGR to open it while it's running and there is no change in the idol speed most likely the line is clogged from the valve to the intake manifold.
zooki4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 05:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,230
Gallery: 0
Baratacus is on a distinguished road
Default

The EGR valve is pulled open by manifold vacuum that has passed through the BVSV, passed through the Modulator, and then passed through the TWSV next to the modulator. To open the EGR valve manually you just apply vacuum to the small hose on the front of the EGR that comes from the TWSV. The Large hose is to transmit backpressure to the Modulator. When the modulator opens the vacuum pathway to the TWSV so it can suck the EGR open, the EGR draws exhaust from the same port that the modulator is reading back pressure from. If you unplug the modulator hose, the EGR valve will suck large quantities of air (combustable) as opposed to small regulated quantities of exhaust gasses (innert) Sucking exhaust gasses enriches the mixture, sucking air leans out the mixture.

Click on this
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...&imageName=Fig. 1: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system schematic-1986-89 Samurai and Sidekick models

Your EGR system will not have a huge affect on your mileage. It will affect your NOX produced at high combustion temperature and it will cause your engine to run hotter than it would optimally. Not enough though to cut your fuel efficiency 50 percent.

Things to look at are your Plugs, O2 sensor, Cap and rotor, Coil, valve lash, If your Idle won't come down, you may have an issue with your high idle compensator. It kicks up the idle when the engine is under load from the alternator taking up a heavy load. If the Idle compensator is getting a faulty reading or is sticking open then your high idle plunger would be giving you problems at idle.

Last edited by Baratacus; 09-20-2010 at 05:18 PM.
Baratacus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 06:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mt Juliet, TN
Posts: 290
Gallery: 0
Haptown is on a distinguished road
Default

I have a '91 efi, but I keep my EGR blocked off for 51 weeks every year. Made a blocking plate from an old license plate. It is arranged like this - intake manifold, paper gasket, blocking plate, rtv, EGR. When it is time for the emissions test, I unbolt the EGR, clean off the rtv, and bolt it back up without the blocking plate.

And since the EGR is supposed to be closed when in 5th gear and I spend at least 80% in 5th gear, I have just removed a potential problem from the loop. You still need to make sure that the vacuum lines and such are still in good condition as the modulator will still function normally, the blocking plate just will not allow an exhaust gases into the intake manifold.

If you EGR value is stuck open, the blocking plate will stop what is essentially a big vacuum leak. Also replace your PCV if it hasn't been done recently.
Haptown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 07:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
Member
 
racer37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
racer37 is on a distinguished road
Default

I have a 4:16 crawler transfer case from RRO and yukon 4.57 gears in the axles. One stupid thing I did about a year ago was I was under the samurai looking around and saw there was a hose dangling down attached to nothing so I looked all over the place and finally found a place to put it. Well I attached the vent hose on the fuel pump to the vent spout on the bottom of the evap canister. I unplugged it yesterday and a bunch of gas came out the bottom of the canister, so I assume that my evap canister and also my fuel pump were not venting correctly, would this affect my mileage and should I replace my fuel pump or charcoal canister?
racer37 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 08:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,230
Gallery: 0
Baratacus is on a distinguished road
Default

that depends on where the fuel came from. If it was from your evap cannister then something is wrong with the tank vent, liquid fuel should not ever enter the cannister. If it was from your fuel pump (most likely was) the bottom vent allows the air to exit and enter as the diaphragm flexes in and out to pump the fuel. If there is a leak in the diaphragm then fuel will leak out the vent pipe. When this happens it's time to replace the pump and to replace your oil. If fuel got past the diaphragm it can be dumping in your engine oil and wreaking havoc with your internals. Change that oil ASAP and change the Pump. You may have just found part of what is causing your poor fuel efficiency.
Baratacus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2010, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
Member
 
racer37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
racer37 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you so much for all the help. I will order a new fuel pump and let you know how it worked. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help people like you do.
racer37 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2010, 09:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
Member
 
racer37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
racer37 is on a distinguished road
Default

Well I got my new fuel pump on and oil changed. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor and put a new muffler and catalytic converter on it because the muffler I had was a flowmaster and it was way too loud for my liking and I had cut off the old catalytic converter. My fuel mileage has went from 10 back up to 19 mpg. I also found that one of my rear brakes was hanging up. My egr valve is still not working right and my idle is still high, about 800 when you start it but when engine gets hot climbs to about 1500 to 1800, what could be the problem there? Other than that the samurai runs better than ever and no more knocking in the engine from the fuel in the oil.
racer37 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site > Suzuki Models > Suzuki Jimny, Sierra & Samurai Forum

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:15 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.