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Old 11-04-2009, 10:01 PM   #21 (permalink)
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yeah, the idle up actuator runs off of the front VSV, so if its getting wrong signal then the idle can drop out on you. I found that with the wrong connectors at normal idle it isn't an issue too much, but coming off throttle it wouldn't get the signal to idle up when it was supposed to and would just choke and die... especially when cold. Somewhere theres a link for tuning the carburetor. I thought it was in Acks stuff, but it may have been in the service manual. I'll see if I can find it. It details how to dial the carb in perfectly. You need to make sure its all set up right before you start messing with the mixture screw. Also I've found it really helps to replace all those ruber vacuum hoses every 3 or 4 years . The hose is sold by the foot ,is inexpensive and really easy to cut and install. Really makes a difference if your hoses are old, cracked or loose.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:47 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Oh, okay that makes sense, sounds like exactly what it was doing, you are a genius. It feels a lot better knowing at least that problem should be fixed.

Here's that link to the manual:Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo
Some one sent me a link a while ago but I never thought to look untill yesterday. I will print out the carb part tomorrow and get that sucker tuned in.

Where do you get the hose for it? I went to Napa/Rebies and Auto Zone and both of them only carried the hose just a little too big and just a little to small so I haven't been able to replace it all, though I want to.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I get it from autozone. If they are out of stock on the correct diameter then I guess you just have to wait for them to restock or order it from a different parts store. It's odd that both places you went to were out of the hose.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hmm ok i'll try it again. I feel like neither carried that size, just above and below it, but come to think of it, they might have been out.
Thanks again for your help
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:38 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Okay, another quick question. I noticed this today, the vacuum end on this sensor/valve whatever it is, is capped. I'm not sure if this is stock or not. The only picture I could find where I could kinda see it looked like it might have something on the end, like a big cap like on top of that sensor that is by the timing belt.
Here's a picture, its located between the distributor and heater control valve.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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WTF is that???? I don't have one of those. I'll see if I can look it up.
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:19 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Really? Thats weird. What year is yours? The two vacuum lines go to the intake manifold, one in the front and one on the side.
Where are you looking these things up?
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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wow! Ok that one was tough to look up. It's not mentioned in the Haynes manual, or on aksfaq or even in the Factory Tech manual. From the look of your picture, the vacuum line goes to the choke piston on the carburetor. On my carburetor, there is a vacuum port on the throttle body right next to the vacuum port for the distributor timing advance. The Choke piston plugs into this port on my throttle body. On my previous carburetor I didn't even have a vacuum operated choke piston. So now I have to question whether or not this choke piston is hooked up to the correct port. In the Factory Tech Manual it says the line should go to manifold vacuum. On all of the pictures I've seen with the choke piston, the vacuum line goes out of frame and I can't see where it connects.
From the look of YOUR picture, it has an electronic switched VSV... probably not found on the older models. That cap on your VSV is where the round restrictor can would go. (you can pull them off the tops of your other VSV's) The Can allows a restricted flow of air into the VSV to allow it to operate more efficiently. Capping it off will not have a big effect on it, it will still switch just fine... don't leave it uncapped though that will cause a vacuum leak.

I'm glad I went out and checked on the Choke piston, I noticed my timing advance hose had blown off.

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Old 11-08-2009, 05:11 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Okay so I looked and the left line from that thing goes to the EGR valve and the right one goes to the frong of the intake mani to a little port that screws into the manifold. I tried using one of the restricters from a VSV and you could hear it sucking pretty loud and when I put my hand over it it would run better and when I took it off it would die. And capped it runs better. So maybe need one that is more restrictive? I'm supposed to go look at a parts sami for parts today, hopefully it will have it all together so I can compare/get missing parts.
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:27 AM   #30 (permalink)
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are you sure it goes to the EGR valve? The EGR should have the large hose going to the bottom of the EGR regulator (round plastic disc on the back of the carburetor extension tray) The Smaller hose off of the EGR should go to the VSV right next to the EGR regulator on the extension tray.

The choke piston is the round diaphragm actuator piston just above the throttle cable on the back of the carburetor. If you look at acksfaq on sami vacuum lines you can see the part in this photo...



It's not one of the highlighted hoses or parts, but you can see it on the firewall. The left hose lays across the EGR regulator and runs down onto the choke piston. The right hose goes over to the intake manifold on the front right somewhere off frame. From the look of it it's got one of those black cans on the VSV.

Here's a link to ACK's FAQ on the vacuum lines. Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo
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