Well, its at it again. It won't idle after its warm unless you make it stay at idle with the throttle then let off, and that only works sometimes. It was doing great, I took it to the lake and it crawled on some stuff I didn't think it could do. But now it just won't idle normal.
The only thing I changed was I put this stuff in it that's supposed to make it pass smog called Guaranteed to Pass. Also the little valve that goes between the air cleaner and the intake that has the orange part on it thats supposed to face the air cleaner had the wrong valve on it. It was some bigger white one. I found the one with the orange part on it in the glove box and swapped them out. I don't feel like that should really change idling?
I just want to be able to smog it and have some fun!
You need the vacuum from the charcoal canister hooked up or you aren't drawing a vacuum on the vapor return line. You can run a "T" fitting off of another vacuum line on the manifold (one that isn't on a switching valve) It's just a pinhole connector on the manifold, so you should use an inline restrictor.
There are two vacuum switching valves that have identical connectors. The front vacuum switching valve that's attached to the timing belt cover has a blue and a black wire going to it. The other vacuum switching solenoid is on the engine side of the carburator and has a brown and a black wire going to that connector. I switched the two up accidentally when I swapped carbs and Had similar problems to the ones you are experiencing.
Also, the last time I got a smog test done, the smog tech tweaked my fuel mixture screw to get it to pass. Unfortunately he did it without telling me. I was running way too lean. To adjust the fuel/air mixture you need to remove the pin from the adjuster port and then using a small straight screwdriver adjust the mixture. Don't do this without an air fuel mixture gauge or a multi meter on your O2 sensor.
Alright, so I looked at those two sensors with the different color wires and they do seem backward to what you say. However, it looks impossible for them to be switched because they wouldn't reach to switch them as they're bundled together with other wires that go to other senors or back to the firewall.
I adjusted the air/fuel before I read this and it's idling now! But the screw is like three whole turns out, what should it be? How do you measure it with a multi meter? What should it be at?
Thanks for the help!
you may have the wire cluster routed on the wrong side of the thermostat. If you go on the wrong side you can't reach the connector with the correct plug. I re-grounded the ground wire in that cluster to a different point so It's a stretch for me to even route it on the correct side of the thermostat. Should just be the temperature sensor, a ground wire, and the two Vacuum switching connectors on that part of your wire harness.
I'm not sure what the voltage is supposed to be on the O2 sensor. I have an air fuel gauge on my dash that goes off of the voltage from the O2 sensor. I'll see if I can look it up.
Edit: It looks like it's supposed to run .5 Volts for a stoich reading. (correct air fuel mixture)
Last edited by Baratacus : 11-02-2009 at 03:20 PM.
Okay so I attached a piture of the upper sensor. In order for them to be switched, someone would have had to mix them up then tape their wires up with a bunch of others to make the harness. Which I guess wouldn't surpise be after seeing some of the stuff previous owners have done to this thing.. I just want to be sure before I go ripping it all apart. I'm really new at electical too, so don't want to push my luck too far.
Okay great, I'll see if I can borrow my buddy's meter and figure it out. That's a lot of help, thank you
its a pretty tight spread, between .2 and .8 volts so make sure you get an accurate reading.
on the cluster, as I posted earler, it should only be the two VSV connectors, the thermostat temp sender and a ground wire in that cluster. If there's more than that then you probably have an aftermarket tape job.
shoot i forgot to attach the picture on the last post. Sounds pretty obvious though that it's wrong, but I took the picture so might as well use it. So guess I'll switch them around and see how it goes. I only need to switch the electrical plug itself right, not the actual sender/switch right?
OOOH! Glad you posted that pic! I was talking about the front VSV by the timing cover and the solenoid valve on the SIDE of the carburetor. The connector on the side of the carb isn't on the same type of VSV as the rear and the front, its actually on a solenoid that switches the vacuum to a round metal diaphragm can. I'll look up the specific part name and get back to you so you know exactly what I'm talking about.
Edit:
The metal can is called the secondary actuator and is over on the drivers side of the carb towards the front. The connector on it is identical to the one on the front VSV by the timing cover but the color of the wires is different. If you have the two mixed up, you just swap connectors not the valves. That VSV by the pre-EGR on the back of the carb is hooked up correctly.
Last edited by Baratacus : 11-04-2009 at 12:27 PM.
Oooookay, that makes a lot more sense! I was baffled how the front and back ones could possibly be switched
I switched them, as you can see in attached picture (hopefully). Though it doesn't seem to be running much differntly. I even switched them back and started it and I couldn't tell a difference. And I have to have the idle mixture screw backed out about 3 turns to get it to idle (am going to get that multi meter today). Shouldn't it be like 1 1/2 turns out normally?
Hopefully with some fine tuning it'll start purring correctly after switching the connectors. Thanks a lot, I never would have figured that one out!
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