You may want to reconsider your plans. Save a little and then do a RUF (rears up front) conversion, and then stick a set of front CJ packs in the rear. That will get you almost 2" of lift and you won't get laughed at. Let me explain.
A 1" body lift will give you a little tire clearance but more important it will give you room under the hood to put in a 1.6 (taller block). The outward appearance doesn't look too out of the ordinary.
A 2" body lift starts to look hokey unless you use some kind of flap that covers the space between the frame and the body. It starts to get tight at the hoses, brake lines and wiring as you lift the body. You will also have less movement clearance for the shifters as they may contact the body openings. It also makes the shifters drop down into the holes (the body rises, but not the shifters).
A 3" body lift can look very silly if that is the only lift you are using. Larger body gaps, longer hoses, lines and spliced wiring, and now a huge gap between the bottom of the grill and the front bumper. Don't even want to think about the shifters...
And with any of these body lifts, if you don't find a kit that includes pieces to support all 22 body mount positions then you run the risk of bending/warping/punching through the 8 points that most vendors DO support. If the body has any rust, then forget it, it won't stay supported offroad.
As you can tell, I am not a fan of body lifts, but I do realize that there are good reasons to use them, i.e. making room for an engine that would otherwise require a hood scoop, or going to an engine/tranny combo with a larger tranny that won't fit in the stock tunnel, etc.
I just wouldn't recommend one in place of a decent (safe) suspension lift.
{stepping down from soapbox}
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