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Old 09-17-2016, 02:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Sticking hand brake

Hi,
Does anyone know how to fix a sticking handbrake? never worked on cars before (Just motorcycles with disc brakes not drums) so all new stuff to me.
Its usually worse after leaving the car standing a 3/4 days and then its a bugger to get it to release...... once freed up its fine until the next time Grrrrrrrrrrr
Any tips most welcome as we all have to learn somewhere

Hamish
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Lubricate the cable, just like a M/C clutch cable..

.... Philip
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good cleaning, try to lubricate cable a bit.
If u wanna open the drum u need to look it up here on the forum.
U need a big socket, and pipe to put on the ratchet(?not sure about the name)
Mine sticks after i wash the car and leave it a day.
I drive it back and forth and it releases.
Also need to lubricate cable i think.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Cheers, I did as you mentioned and it was ok for a while but then started to do it again so its gone into a garage today to have all the brakes service with new everything so i have a bit less to worry about.
I have also fitted a new battery as the old one went totally flat after not using the car for a few days......as its just a runabout car and not our main car it won't get as much use so wondering how i can make sure the battery is not flat everytime i want to use it? I only do short journeys in it at the moment and it lives outside....I had wondered how good the solar powered trickle chargers are for in your car, do you think they might keep the new battery topped up when left standing for a few days?

The Ignis is a great fun little car and I love how comfortable the seats are compared to my new Yeti which is an ok car but VERY uncomfortable hard seats (crap) you would think they could make some decent seats by now. Also the brakes on the Yeti are very wooden and have no feel to them so they are either ON or OFF and very hard to gradually slow down for junctions smoothly as they tend to grab... I have had it checked out at Skoda main dealer and they said they are all like that and I tested one from their showroom and that grabbed badly. I'm going for a Ford ST Focus estate next which should be better than the Yeti
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
I have also fitted a new battery as the old one went totally flat after not using the car for a few days....
Old batteries stop holding charge quickly when past used by date, so a new battery will solve your problem and it should be able to sit for weeks unless there is another problem. One easy way to tell if there is a problem is to disconnect negative terminal and see if there is a bigger than usual arc or spark as you reconnect it with everything off and key out (or use Ammeter).

Do you know if your alternator is working - whilst engine is running, disconnect battery and if engine stops, alternator is no good.

Anyway, if you regularly leave car for weeks between using, then disconnect negative terminal every time to save flat battery from clock and radio memory power consumption. You just need to carry small spanner in car.

PS, did you regularly check water level in old battery?

Last edited by 2000IGNIS; 10-20-2016 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I ve put a varta B18 in mine. Is bigger, so i ordered new battery tray and clamps for + and -. Original tray is screwed, so i drilled holes in new one to fit just right, had to cut a corner a bit.
All ebay, all cheap and good.70 in total i think
Works perfect, no more worries.
Originals just lack the power after some time imo.
I changed rear brakes, drums and bearings myself, without special tools, Didnt pay 100
If u want advise before u put money in it pm me if u like.
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi, Sorry didn't reply sooner but I have finally got the brakes sorted...... due to my health problems I was unable to do the work myself and don't have a garage so I got a local garage to sort it for 62.00 this included sorting the handbrake cables out which were basically corroded to such an extent that the return spring on the drum couldn't work so they were stuck on. I also had new pads/shoes fitted at the same time (I already had bought them so they fitted them for no extra charge which i thought was great)
The difference to my Ignis is amazing and i guess they must have been dragging for ages.... As I mentioned before I am pretty new to car mechanicals after riding motorbikes for 30+ years I decided to learn to drive...I had 40+ bikes including Harleys/Goldwings?BMW's also raced drag bikes for many years (fastest speed on the road 186mph on a private road officer of course 9-) on the drag strip top speed 211mph so you can imagine how slow the little Ignis feels lol but its quite different judging the width of the cars on our country roads when your used to narrower bikes.
I never thought i'd ever learn to drive a car but managed to pass first time so once i get a bit more experience I will get something a bit bigger like a Mustang lol

Cheers
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000IGNIS View Post
Do you know if your alternator is working - whilst engine is running, disconnect battery and if engine stops, alternator is no good.
This is the worst possible advice to give..

Today's electronics do not like any static are uncontrolled voltage spikes..

... Philip
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I must be one of the lucky ones as I don't need a radio code for my Ignis I have never seen a forum that is full of radio code requests, I expected to read how to supercharge or fit turbos to Ignis's maybe build an Ignis Monster Truck?

Cheers and Happy Christmas to everyone

Hamish
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