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Old 09-25-2012, 09:17 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Strangely after my car failed the smog test and ended up with a CEL I cleared the code and drove about 80-90 miles without it coming back on. I retested and the car passed smog without a hitch. The issue has not resurfaced yet.
The next thing I need to trouble shoot is the very poor gas mileage, about 14 MPG in the city.
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:33 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Default new TRS

Just picked up my new TRS, just wondering if anyone has any secrets on getting the old one off smoother since I've heard how much of a pian it is. Please get back to me ASAP.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:51 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makeyurself View Post
Just picked up my new TRS, just wondering if anyone has any secrets on getting the old one off smoother since I've heard how much of a pian it is. Please get back to me ASAP.
Not much to it, just remove the center bolt and the 2 side bolts. You will have to pry the TRS out as it is tight on the shaft. I did not remove the cooling hose but I had a helping hand holding it out of the way for me.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Default Here is how to do the adjustment without the "tool."

Not only did I have to replace the throttle body in my car in the past week, I also had to replace the Transmission Range Sensor. I had a buddy of mine, a former mechanic, help me with this mainly because I knew if I had issues, I would be clueless how to fix them. Besides, the hard step is a 2 person job so you will need to have someone on standby. Anyway, once you finally get the senor removed, you have to carefully align the new sensor so that it fits over the shaft properly. There is a flat section that is next to impossible to see while you try to align it, but it will not work properly if it is not aligned. We found this out the hard way. Once you get the sensor on (Leave both bolts, in the oblong or oval shaped holes, slightly loose), put the cable link back on and make sure everything is connected as if you are done with the install. Now, here is the trick: Sit in the car and start it and put it from park into reverse while keeping your foot firmly on the brake. Feel the transmission engage and look at the digital readout on your dash and make sure it shows R for reverse. If it went into gear and showed R, then slightly let off the brake and allow the engine to move the car back to ensure it is in gear. If that works, engage the brake again and put the car into neutral then drive. Again, look at the display and make sure it shows N when the car is in Neutral and D when the car is in drive. If at any time, the display flashes all of the letters/numbers of the gears (P, R, N, D, 3, 2, and 1 display together and it looks like a jumbled mess), it means the sensor can't properly detect which gear you are actually in. Again, make sure the 2 bolts are slightly loose in the oblong holes on the sensor. While it flashes all the letters/numbers at you, have someone (You are still in the car with your foot firmly on the brake) gently move the sensor until you get a clear display with the letter D for drive. Make sure you hear or feel the transmission engage and slowly let your foot off the brake to ensure the engine engages and the car goes forward. Throughout these checks, you should not press the gas. Let the car go forward and back on its own power while you maintain vigil on the brake. If the car goes forward, put the brake back on and put it back through neutral to reverse. Again, make sure the display shows R and the car goes backward when you slightly let off the brake. If this works, tighten the bolts down on the sensor. If it doesn't work, keep trying until you can get it from reverse to drive with zero issues. Hopefully, that's not super difficult for most. It was fairly simple and only took us a few minutes to fix once we figured it out. Just be careful while you're doing this operation. Having someone work inside your engine while the car is in gear is very dangerous. Make sure you and the person helping you know what the hell you are doing and avoid any mistakes that could have deadly consequences. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:15 PM   #85 (permalink)
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@pike0101: That is one fantastic first post, buddy! Great info there; very much appreciated. (This forum needs a "like" or "thank you" button for posts.)
ETA: Found the +reputation button, so, yeah...
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:25 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Default I do what I can.

@P1NkY: I figured since there was 9 pages of information to help me solve most of this issue, I would share the fix that my buddy came up with to solve the rest. Share the wealth. LOL Again, if anyone has any issues or questions with my prior post "tutorial," please ask.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #87 (permalink)
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really nice write up. thanks fro sharing that pike0101
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:37 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Smile Heat is the cause of TRS Problems

I have an 07 forenza. The TRS problem has plagued me from about the 60,000 mile point. We replaced the TRS 4 times and the transmission was replaced by the dealer. It seemed to fix the problem, we loaned the car to some friends who were down on their luck. The problem resurfaced with a vengeance. So we took the car back and started to look closely at the problem. They neglected to change the oil for 7000 miles, it was two quarts low and the antifreeze reservoir was dry. I thought it was toast. But I hoped to get it working somewhat so I could sell it at a lose.

I did a couple of oil changes to get rid of the sludge in the engine, flushed the cooling system and replaced the Dex cool with fresh conventional green antifreeze and it seemed to be driving better. The car was running cooler and the transmission problems seemed to lessen. We took a look at were the TRS is located, in the direct flow from the radiator fan. So I created a barrier from that flow with a piece of thermopan ductwork insulation.(thermopan is cardboard faced with reflective material on each side), this barrier is just long enough to cover the TRS region and the front face of the transmission filter. Do not cover the TRS from above let the air circulate around it but you must protect it from the direct blast of the radiator fan. I used tie raps to fasted this barrier to the lower radiator hose.

I believe the root cause of the TRS problem is poor design and placement of the TRS and cooling system. I believe the radiator is marginally sized for this car. Any degradation to its function causes it to work harder to keep the engine at operating temperature. (The electric fan runs longer blasting the TRS with a blow torch of heat.) So at 60,000 miles, the Dex cool is breaking down, the radiator is getting clogged internally, dust, grease and bugs are obstructing the radiator flow and the condenser is getting flattened by road debris. All of this is obstructing flow and heat transfer from the radiator.

PS I replaced the TRS myself the last two times, and I kept them. I put one of the old ones back in and it is still driving fine.

Just good maintenance and a couple of dollars for a heat shield and I am back on the road reliably.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #89 (permalink)
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really nice piece of info!! good detective work. hopefully the car will keep running fine. update the post after a while and let us know how its running.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:32 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Wow! That IS good advice, Mike!
The TRS is just a bunch of springy metal contacts, so I can definitely see where the heat would affect them due to thermal expansion!
I will definitely be trying that out, maybe fabbing up some kind of duct to direct fresh air from underneath the car or something.
Let us know how it goes, please!

Yet another great first post! Thank you!
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