2000 Esteem wagon oil pan

[solaredge]

How common is it to need an oil pan replacement from rust ( as opposed to a "traumatic incident) ?

I've been told that there maybe rust= wetting and that the whole engine has to be pulled to put in a new/different one ~$500 ?

Are these guys talking for real?

[dennshin]

I dont think so. I have a 2001 sedan and it doesnt appear so during oil changes. You may have to loosen some motor mounts and tilt the engine or remove a brace. But I dont think the whole engine would have to be removed.

[jim_naisium]

From what I have observed under my 1999 Esteem Sedan 1.6 liter is that the oil pan should come out without having to remove the engine, the center cross brace will have to be lowered or removed (not sure which yet), the transmission brace bar on the front of the engine will need to be removed, and the exhaust pipe that goes under the engine looks like it will have to come out, after that the oil pan should come off.

Your oil pan should not need to be replaced just because it is rusty unless it has rusted clear through the metal and now has a hole in it, but even then if its just one hole you should be able to get it welded shut.

[solaredge]

[
Your oil pan should not need to be replaced just because it is rusty ..]

I saw some talk on forum regarding gasket? or not at top of oil pan and asked for a retorque of pan screws at last oil change to see if that relates to a noted "drip stain" after driving..mechanic said the wetting would have included more wetting along entire side of oil pan vs one lower corner. No hole or damage seen.

Could the $500 estimate= mostly labor with all disconnect points described?
( and maybe why another source just said, "pull the engine.".)?

[WastedP]

On my 1.6L Esteem, getting to the oil pan wasn't too difficult. The second time I did it, it took just under an hour to get everything exposed.

I'm going from real recent memory here:

A: Remove the plastic covers under the engine.

B: Unplug the crankshaft position sensor. The wire for it attaches to a clip that is bolted onto the timing belt cover. The plastic pin can be squeezed with pliers and pushed through the bracket, but I think it's easier to just remove the bolt that holds it on. Once it's free, the wire can be pulled farther out of the way.

C: Remove exhaust pipe.
>1. Remove exhaust manifold heat shield.
>2. Remove the nuts that bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
>3. Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the rest of the exhaust (two bolts).
>4. Remove the two bolts that hold the pipe to brackets, one at the downstream end, and one downstream from the bend that sweeps up to the manifold.

D: Support the engine by putting a jack under the transmission.

E: Remove the brace that runs front to back.
>1. Remove the four nuts (two per motor mount) that secure the mounts to the brace.
>2. Remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the brace at the back.
>3. Remove the two bolts that hold the brace to the front.
>4. Lower the front of brace and pull it forward a little. The rear motor mount's studs need to be pushed up and off to the side to get them clear of the holes in the brace. Jacking the engine up a little bit helps, but I tried (both times) to keep the motor as stationary as possible.

F: Remove the transmission brace by removing three bolts, one from the engine block and two from the transmission. It's also attached by a stud that also holds on the front bracket that bolts to the exhaust pipe.

G: Remove the flywheel cover, two small bolts.

At this point, the entire oil pan is accessible. There are a ton of 10mm bolts in it, including the one that secures the CKP sensor. The first time I removed the oil pan, I just tapped it with a rubber mallet and it came loose fairly easily. The second time, the bond was more tenacious. I used a razor knife and the CRC industrial gasket remover. Not much truly works as a silicone solvent; this is one product that really works.

[tonyvallevista2]

on the 1.8 liter engine:

1. remove dip stick.
2. raise front of car.
3. drain engine oil.
4. remove engine left and right plastic under covers.
5. remove front wheels.
6 . support engine and transmission with support jack ( a cherry picker will work fine, attach lift chain to engine lift hooks.
7. remove mounting member, remove number 1 exhaust pipe.
8. remove clutch housing lower plate ( mt ) or torque converter lower plate (at).
remove oil pan.
9. clean gasket material from oil pan and engine mounting surfaces.

When you replace the oil pan, you will see a groove in the oil pans mating surface, apply a bead of sealant 4mm wide by 12mm high onto this groove, use Suzuki sealant # 99000-31150.

Tighten oil pan bolts to 11N-m (1.1 kg, 8.0 lb-ft )

installation is reverse of disassembly.

[jim_naisium]

Cool, thanks for the info.

That answered my next question which was if you could put a jack under the transmission or if the engine needed to be supported from above.