Removing FRONT Shock absorber Struts

[Patrick t]

Hello ALL!
I`m doing this for the FIRST time, so any TIPS and SUGGESTIONS to make the job easier and to minimize any damage to anything would be appreciated!

I just got through doing an ocular inspection of what i might have to do to take off the Shock Absorber STRUT. From the looks of it i would have to do the following:
1- Put the front on jackstands with both wheels off and axle nuts loosened up.
2- Disconnect section of Brake Hose from clip on Shock absorber strut.
3- Loosen bolts/nuts attaching Shock absorber strut to Hub (What are the TORQUE specs on this? Are the mounting holes lopsided for CAMBER adjustment?).
4- Disconnect Outer Tierod -i dont have a pickle fork or tierod remover so will just hammer on the Steering Knuckle, I assume that since the outer tierod is on TOP that i hammer on the steering knuckle from the TOP as well? Or does it matter?
5- Disconnect Swaybar link to A-arm and
6- Disconnect A-arm from hub (so i can pull out the splined Axle for easier access to lowering the Shock absorber strut? Do i need to do this?).
7- Remove axle nut and Pull out splined Axle.
8- While CAREFULLY supporting the Hub-Rotor so as not to drop the rotor AND destroy the flexible Brake Hose, i disconnect the Shock absorber strut from the HUB.
9- Finally, i unbolt the Shock absorber strut TOP Mount nuts (TORQUE for nuts?) and carefully lower the Shock absorber strut down and out of the car.

To RE-INSTALL new shocks, i reverse the above procedure.

OK, please, any comments and suggestions. I hope to finish both left AND right in a day max as it is our everyday car.
THANK YOU ALL! patrick

[suzuki pro]

dont disconnect the tie rod, dont remove the axle nut. just take off the 2 bolts holding the strut to the knuckle (not accentric) unhook brake line & sway bar link(if its connected to the strut). you'll be able to slide the stut down far enough that the top will clear the wheelwell. once its off you will need a spring compressor to take the spring off the strut tho..

[Isuzuzuki man]

Yes, just take off the strut at the knuckle, the two large bolts with nuts. Remove the three strut mount nuts and loosen the strut rod nut on top first with the car on the ground, this will keep it from turning, just break it loose, do not remove, same thing at the end, do the final tighten on the ground.

Also consider replacing the strut mounts, pretty important part considering they have to turn and support the entire weight of the front end.
Make sure the bearing cup in the mount up top has some grease in it, thats the little cap over the strut rod nut, there's a bearing down there.

Just make sure the spring seats exactly where it was before on both ends.
It sounds complicated but once you do it its pretty easy.

[Patrick t]

SUZUKI PRO- THANKS! that definitely makes the job easier!!

ISUZUZUKI MAN- I never messed around with the bearing cup, but your right, THANKS for the rest of the tips!



So anyone got TORQUE SPECS for: 1-Bolts holding the Shock absorber Strut to the Hub. and 2- Nuts for Strut TOP mount. THANKS AGAIN!

[suzuki pro]

i dont think you mentioned what year and model but for esteem.. top 3 nuts 28 Nm,
20.5lb-ft. 2 bottom bolts 100 Nm, 72.5 lb-ft

[jim_naisium]

If you do decide to remove the steering tie rods DO NOT bang on the stud from the bottom or you will damage the threads so badly that the nut will not go back on, to get mine off it required a pickle fork and a 4 pound ball pein hammer and wacking it as hard as I could, on the fifth try it broke loose.

They do make ratchet/wrench operated gear pullers that you could use to push on the stud to force it through the hole but I could not find one that would fit the Esteem to remove the steering tie rod, pickle forks are cheap I would just go buy one if you end up needing one.

[Isuzuzuki man]

To add to what Jim is saying, you can hit the part of the knuckle that the stud goes through, most times that will do it. It momentarily distorts the hole and allows the stud to break loose, if that does not work get a jaws type puller and put some "persuadence" on the stud, then whack the hole part.
A pickle fork works but it can tear up the boot.

[Patrick t]

SUZUKI PRO, JIM NAISIUM, ISUZUZUKI MAN- Guys, THANKS SO MUCH for your very VALUABLE tips and advice! I will try the hammer first on the part of the knuckle- tierods as i`d like to retain the tierod boots. Oh, its a 1998 ESTEEM GLX. The more i do stuff on this car, the more i`m liking it!

[jim_naisium]

Its actually a very easy car to work on, even changing the timing belt required nothing but a basic set of wrenches and sockets.

[jim_naisium]

Originally Posted by kelvinward01

wow all those tips can help me too.. thanks..

This website of mine may help you as well: http://home.comcast.net/~lj_robins/99suzuki/