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Old 06-30-2012, 12:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default battery keeps discharging

2005 suzuki aerio not charging batter, got a new battery (it was 4 yo any way), took off alternator and had it tested...passed test

Last edited by poncepr64; 06-30-2012 at 12:48 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Let's start by IDENTIFYING the problem...

Your subject says "bettery keeps discharging" - the body of your post says "aerio not charging battery" - those are two different things.

If the car is not charging the battery, the battery will eventually run down because of the power being drawn from it, the battery itself can also be defective and incapable of holding a charge, or you can have an electrical load that is not being switched off that drains the battery when the car is not being used.

If you lack the test equipment and knowledge to determine which of the three scenarios you're being faced with, take the car to someone who does.
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordem View Post
Let's start by IDENTIFYING the problem...

Your subject says "bettery keeps discharging" - the body of your post says "aerio not charging battery" - those are two different things.

If the car is not charging the battery, the battery will eventually run down because of the power being drawn from it, the battery itself can also be defective and incapable of holding a charge, or you can have an electrical load that is not being switched off that drains the battery when the car is not being used.

If you lack the test equipment and knowledge to determine which of the three scenarios you're being faced with, take the car to someone who does.
ok. first, your reply seems a little condescending. I may not be a certified mechanic but come on, why belittle people when they are trying to find some help. Most people work on their own cars in order to save money. also I may have worded my question improperly, but I am not totally incompetent.

That being said,, battery is new, replaced it because old one was 4 yo , it died on the wife. ( in florida that is a lifetime, original battery only lasted three years ). I charged battery overnight, placed back in car tightened all cables, car started fine in the morning. but still is running down when car is in use.
Took off the alternator (the most challenging one ever) had it tested at AutoZone and it passed with an output of 80 amps under load,
Lamp/diode trio passed
Regulator test passed
Rectifier test passed

All the cables and connection look good no corrosion,
All I can think of is a bad relay...which one would be responsible or connected to the charging system.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
In the process of re installing alternator now.

Last edited by poncepr64; 06-30-2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm tempted to ask - did you replace the battery because it was four years old or because it died - but the truth is it really doesn't matter, it's just an inconsistency, and inconsistencies bug me.

Whether you like it or not, when dealing with electrical problems the details DO matter, and eyeballing cables & connectors doesn't mean that they're good (unless your eyeball is different to mine - I can't see electricity, don't know if you can) - you really DO need the test equipment to move forward.

Two things - please don't assume that a functional alternator is all that's required to have a functional charging system, and there are NO relays associated with the charging system.

Now - do you have a volt meter - because we're not going to get very far without one.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hello,
The Battery light came on , first, it would go out within a few minutes of driving but now it's on all the time.
Hence, now the alternator is not charging the Battery.

Here's what I've done so far;
I replaced the Battery, it was 4 yo (original only lasted 3yrs).
Took off alternator, and had is tested at AutoZone.
(serious pain to get off!!!)

Alternator passed all tests,
Lamp/Diode Trio Test - PASSED
Regulator Test - PASSED
Rectifier Test - PASSED

Put the alternator back on the car and battery light still comes on and the alternator is still not charging the battery.

So, now its on to the cable,harness,etc.
All main battery connections are clean and tight, all fuses checked good.

Checked for live wire on Alternator (car off), I got one live wire.

Checked for live wire in harness next to firewall on right side
(next to power steering resv)
Car is on, white/green wire is live,
Car is off, white/green wire is dead.
Solid green is always dead regardless of car on/off

Volt readout at battery terminals;
12.95 car off
12.58 car on
Also, that is with everything off on the car (radio, lights, etc)
If I turn any of those on , volts start dropping.

Last edited by poncepr64; 07-04-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: sp
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Volt readout at battery terminals;
12.95 car off
12.58 car on
It's not charging.

IMO it's either poor alternator wiring connections OR the bench test wasn't conclusive.

Your old alternator can be exhibiting intermittent issues and keep in mind...a bench test doesn't replicate the added high temp environment in which the alternator has to perform in.

The alternator may be breaking down due to heat, in other words. I'd replace it.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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With the engine on, measure the volts directly on the alternator and see id the voltage is the same measuring directly from the battery.
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok...here is the update...

Alternator Car off/key forward;
battery terminal on alternator- l 12.91
wire out of plug on back of the alternator- 12.79

Car on both sets of numbers drop...especially with accessories on.

Wire harness next to fire wall behind power steering pump resv
The same applies...
Car off/ key forward;

Wht/Grn 12v constant wire- 12.85

Car on numbers drop.
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ahhh - voltage measurements - now we can get a grip on the problem - Max is right - those voltages indicate no alternator output, so that's what we'll be troubleshooting.

Unfortunately, I'm not at my desk, so I don't have access to any service documentation, which I would need to know what the green & white/green wires connect to, but, if those are the wires in harness which plugs in to the back of the alternator, I'm pretty certain both should be live - from memory, one feeds the regulator and the other is for the light.

The light, by the way, is wired between two "live" wires - if both are live, the light goes out, but if the voltage drops on either wire, the light comes on - you could have a defective alternator, or a wiring problem - I'll get back to you in a bit with more details.
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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wiring info on 2005 Suzuki Aerio;

WIRE WIRE COLOR LOCATION
12V CONSTANT WIRE WHT/GRN IGNITION HARNESS
12V IGNITION WIRE GREEN IGNITION HARNESS
12V ACCESSORY WIRE YELLOW BLK IGNITION HARNESS
STATER WIRE BLK/RED IGNITION HARNESS

ALTERNATOR
MAIN BATTERY TERMINAL -ALL BLACK
WIRES COMING OUT OF PLUG ON ALTERNATOR;
ALL WHT
BLK W/WHITE TRACER.

Thanks for all the ongoing help!!!
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