hi guys, i'm new here. i have been reading some of the posts in this forum and i have to say, i'm so glad i found this place! i have a question....i have yet to do this, but figured i'd give it a go since i like to know how my car works and be responisble for taking care of it's basic needs....i have to replace the brake pads. they make a terrible noise! i've done this kind of minor work on older vehicles before, and it's not so hard to do. but since this is my first newer car (2003), i figured i should look for some information first. lot's of folks have been telling me "oh don't try it, take it to the mechanic, newer cars are difficult to work on..." and all that kind of stuff. i can't swallow this very easily...has anyone replaced the brake pads on this model before? and how would you rate it's difficulty? also, if there's any online guides, can you point me in the right direction? thanks in advance everyone.
take of the wheel (obvious) than loosen and remove 2 hex bolts on the rear of the break calipers. The one's that seem to bolt into the rubber dustcaps. When they are removed you can take the calipers off, mind that it will take some cursing when the pads are worn badly. Once off, push the cilinder back in gently to allow room for the new (thicker) pads.
Remove the old pats by just pulling them out of the clips. look where the one with the metal 'U' clip goes (the thing that makes an awfull squeeking noise when they're worn off). Press the new ones in, check if the caliper sliders (things with the dustcaps on) slide in and out properly. Put the caliper back on, tighten 2 bolts.
Done.
Do yourself some favors!
I am a ASE/Michigan certified mechanic, and manage a autoparts store...so!
1) Do yourself a favor! Buy 4 8mm "coarse" thread nuts.
2) Rotors MUST be REPLACED or RESURFACED on EVERY SINGLE brake job...just doing a 'pad slap' will cause damage to your brake slide pins.
3) When in doubt....GREASE IT. buy a tub of brake caliper grease to use on your pads. It goes without saying to NOT GREASE THE FRICTION SURFACE (Yes, I have seen it...)
4) Before driving, pump the pedal utill it 'hardens'
Proceedure.
Lift and support vehicle.
Remove tires.
There are 2 14mm hex nuts that secure the caliper to the caliper braket. BEFORE you loosen these use a 14mm wrench to keep the inside of the pin from rotating...this can cause the delicate boot to tear.
Once the caliper has been removed, HANG IT from a piece of twine or a bent coat hanger...do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
Retract the caliper piston*
Remove the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle. It is secured by 2 17mm bolts. Note the use of thread-locker compoud (yellow).
Remove the caliper bracket and check slide pins**
If the rotor does not come off with gentle pulling or tapping (by hand...NO HAMMERS) use 2 of the 8mm bolts I suggested you buy...they will thread into 2 tapped holes in the rotor hat and pop it off.
Replace rotors with new or properly resurfaced ("turned") rotors (Basic rotors are available at most autoparts stores for $14-$22 US, it usually costs $10 to turn them). Make sure to properly clean both sides of the rotor with brake clean and wipe dry. DO NOT USE GASOLINE. This is to insure that oil that new rotors come packaged in is removed, and to give resurfaced rotors a final cleaning.
Re-install caliper bracket. Use a service-removable threadlocker (i.e. permatex blue). Torque spec is 26 ft lbs.
being careful not to touch the rotor, apply a small amount of brake grease to the pad runs (aka 'shims' or 'rattle clips') on the bracket.
Apply a small amount of grease to the edges of the new pads (never sand and reuse old pads) If your new pads have chatter pins/wear indicators, those are the INSIDE pads. once you have the pads back on, use a brush and apply a thin layer of brake grease across the back of the pads*** taking extra care around the edges of the shims (if you bought shimmed pads).
Re-install caliper, DO NOT use a thread locker on the caliper-to-slidepin bolts. Remember to use that 14mm wrench to prevent twisting.
Re-install wheel and tighten lugs.
Lower vehicle.
Torque lugnuts to 90 (I prefer 95) Ft lbs.
Your done. Congrats.
*While you can use a old pad and a c-clamp to retract the piston, the PROPER way to to use a pad spreader (does the same thing as a c-clamp but works from the front of the caliper) to apply tension to the piston, crack the bleeder nut, compress piston, and tighten bleeder nut before the old pad stops the piston from retracting further. Make sure to check your brake fluid level before and after you do this to each caliper...woe be to he who lets air into the brakes for not checking his fluid.
** Slide pins: These are the LIFE of your braking system, and the most over-looked DIY issue.
TO CHECK: Pin should slide in and out freely, if you apply slight side-to-side pressure the pin should not feel 'loose', if you apply lateral pressure and move the pin in and out you should NOT feel the pin grate against the inside of the bracket.
TO REPLACE: Secure bracket in a vise or other secure hold-down, grip the flat edges with a pair of pliers and gently pull away from the bracket, pin should just pop out. Remove the dust seal (also pops off) and inspect for any rips, tears, or questionable conditions. When in doubt replace. apply liberal amounts of grease to new pins. Attach boots to the pins (will snap on just below the heads) and re-insert the pin/boot into the bracket. It should 'snap' in. Excess grease will probably shoot out. If it doesnt...you DIDNT USE ENOUGH. Remove and re-grease.
***Sure, its a LITTLE excessive to put gease on the back of the whole pad, but it saves you from guessing where the caliper/piston will contact it, and prevents rusts. Why not?
i overlooked the wrench to keep the inside pin secure, because on my vehicles they are self secured by the caliper, therefor you cant get a wrench in to hold them.
thanks for your great response Anarius, i appreciate it. i plan to do this job on saturday, in the meantime my car is just sitting in the garage waiting . but with this detailed response, i can't go wrong.
Nils, the aerio is actually a rare type of caliper pin...some aftermarkets are like yours as well, were two sides are flattened to mate against the inside of the caliper. The aerio 'factory' pins and the Carlson-brand aftermarkets are a little wierd that way.
Oh I see, thanks for pointing that out, I was told the aerio (liana over here) was based on the Baleno 'frame' so i thought (knowing suzuki) it would be nearly identical
Replacing Aerio Brake Pads
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. but with this detailed response, i can't go wrong.
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