Yes, the bars should fit the wagon. They are on the same chassis, so there should be no issues. We have one here, so we will take a look to be 100% sure and let you know. Thanks...
-Chip
Quote:
Originally posted by schoolpsych@Apr 25 2006, 09:03 AM Will the bars fit a wagon?
Consider getting both done at the same time. If you need to get one, get the front, yes, the front bar first.
Here's why:
At the limit, as in the limit of adhesion AND in a steady state turn like a sweeper, the Reno/Forenza is actually quite balanced for a front wheel drive car. Yes, the front will loose traction before the rear, but the rear comes trailing fairly soon after.
Ok, so why the front bar first? Won't that make the car understeer more?
Yes AND No. At initial turn-in, you actually GAIN traction because the car is not rolling over on to the bumpstop so quickly. The stock setup rolls around too much so that you are effectively only cornering on the outermost edge of the outer tire because of the severe camber change from the strut suspension. The stiffer front bar prevents the wild camber changes that you get when you have a stock set up. Even more so if you're car is lowered beyond 1" or so because the car's roll center exponentially gets raised if you go lower than that. See, you ADD traction by keeping the suspension level, using more of the tire contact patch. At the limit, yes the front will still push, even more so than before, but that limit is now higher than if you had the stock set up.
Now, a stiffer rear bar will get rid of the understeer, but you are breaking the rear tires loose, as in you are LOOSING traction on the rear if you have the stock front bar. You're friction circle (ask me about it if you care), now covers less area and therefore partially diminish your car's overall limits. Also, at the rates that Chip has these engineered, you are just asking for lift-throttle snap oversteer if you are not careful.
In summary:
FWD (even AWD cars based on FWD platfroms i.e. 60/40 weight distribution)
Big front swaybar--primary reducer of body roll, keeps front tire contact patch even, raises overall traction limit, but will cause a bigger push when you exceed that limit
Big rear swaybar--in conjunction with big front bar, raises traction in rear by keeping rear tire contact patch even, balances the understeer caused by the big front bar when traction limits are exceeded.
When I was putting the Apex springs on, it seemed the front bar was located above the bottom of the chasis. Wouldn't this make it very difficult to remove and put a new one in? In comparison, the back one seems to sit below the chasis, so it would just drop down when you remove it.
__________________
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti
F28 6spd Gearbox & KW V3 Coilovers
Boosted and Daily driven since Dec. 2006
T04B V-Trim & E-Manage Blue
You will need to potentially remove the front sub-frame, or at least loosen them to get the front swaybar free.
I was looking at this when I was doing a "self-alignment" (essentially trying to get as much negative camber as I can on the front wheels by loosening eveyrhting that could have some free-play then pushing on the tops of the weels to get some camber).
If you are not familiar with sub-frames, then you probably should take it to a shop to at least get just the front bar installed.
P.S. From what I can see on the BMS photos, the endlinks look to be of really high quality as well.
Cool thanks fellas Im tryin to plan my suspenion mods carefully there are alot of ruff roads and pot holes here Im MO. Hey this is off topic but isnt there a sleve coilover kit coming? just a rumor I read somewhere here?
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